Jeep Driver Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Aside from a multi-meter and a test light, you should have a test lead. A piece of wire about 5' long with an alligator clip at each end. Attach one end of the wire to the small post on the starter, with the ign on, touch the other end to the pos post on the battery. The engine should turn over and start. This is how you test for a bad NSS, takes all of 30 seconds to perform. If yours does not.....you look to have two problems. The fact that you are getting fuel but no spark, (meaning that you ignition circuit is hot) I would first suspect a bad or damaged CPS. From there- Take a test light and check every fuse. Check every connector, every end of your wiring harness. You should have tagged/labeled every connector before you disassembled, even if it seemed obvious. According to your sig line, you have a 98 XJ at your disposal, the two harnesses should be identical, you can study that harness to make certain your MJ harness is correct. Could be something as simple as a bad coil, you have one on the XJ to test with. After checking every fuse, every connector, CPS, coil......ect..........worst case is you'll have to break open your looms and start tracing wires down (broken or cut wires). Once you set your mind to it, it's not that difficult nor is it as intimidating as it looks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Here is what the inside of a NSS looks like. Some writeups will tell you to smear dielectic grease on the contacts, do not do this, you'll be taking it apart in a week or so and cleaning it again. Simply clean the contacts with some 800 grit sandpaper and reassemble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Aside from a multi-meter and a test light, you should have a test lead. A piece of wire about 5' long with an alligator clip at each end. Attach one end of the wire to the small post on the starter, with the ign on, touch the other end to the pos post on the battery. The engine should turn over and start. This is how you test for a bad NSS, takes all of 30 seconds to perform. If yours does not.....you look to have two problems. The fact that you are getting fuel but no spark, (meaning that you ignition circuit is hot) I would first suspect a bad or damaged CPS. From there- Take a test light and check every fuse. Check every connector, every end of your wiring harness. You should have tagged/labeled every connector before you disassembled, even if it seemed obvious. According to your sig line, you have a 98 XJ at your disposal, the two harnesses should be identical, you can study that harness to make certain your MJ harness is correct. Could be something as simple as a bad coil, you have one on the XJ to test with. After checking every fuse, every connector, CPS, coil......ect..........worst case is you'll have to break open your looms and start tracing wires down (broken or cut wires). Once you set your mind to it, it's not that difficult nor is it as intimidating as it looks. Idk if you missed me saying it before when I say jumping the starter I mean I did use a jumper from the battery to the small starter post. The engine turns over no problem. It doesn't start however because of the no spark. The no spark issue I'm not worried about because I know how to move forward with that. The NSS I'm not as familiar with and that's why I'm asking. I've checked the fuses and none are blown but I will run a test light across them. The 98 XJ has been a huge help and I've used it many times to double check but I will definitely go back and check again. I am to that point now where it's either the NSS and/or a break in the wiring somewhere. I have a few spare CPS and coils I will be using to work out the no spark issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Here is what the inside of a NSS looks like. Some writeups will tell you to smear dielectic grease on the contacts, do not do this, you'll be taking it apart in a week or so and cleaning it again. Simply clean the contacts with some 800 grit sandpaper and reassemble. I have heard this before. What is the reasoning behind it? I would think the grease would be good to keep any moisture out. Is it that sensitive that grease causes problems? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Yes, it's that sensitive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Well good news and bad. The good news, bypassing the NSS like hornbrod suggested worked. It turned over with the key. I had to use this diagram as the plug is different in 97+ Bad news is that after 3 hours of greasing, pb blasting, and back and forth with the screwdriver the threads on the NSS finally gave out and the nut will no longer stay on. I read multiple threads on how to remove the NSS and was patient and careful but it still broke. So now my question is, how in the world to get it off. I can't really get a good angle to pry the back of the NSS with a screwdriver and it still doesn't want to budge. Worse news is that I have issues with my XJ that are tied to the NSS as well so now I'm really scared to try that one since it's my DD. What would be the downsides to permanently bypassing the NSS? I know the possibility of starting in gear is there but the likelyhood of me doing that is basically zero. I know the NSS has something to do with Overdrive so I'm assuming that probably wouldn't work. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Here is what the inside of a NSS looks like. Some writeups will tell you to smear dielectic grease on the contacts, do not do this, you'll be taking it apart in a week or so and cleaning it again. Simply clean the contacts with some 800 grit sandpaper and reassemble. I have heard this before. What is the reasoning behind it? I would think the grease would be good to keep any moisture out. Is it that sensitive that grease causes problems? Dielectric grease is non-conductive and should never be used on electrical contacts. However the NSS contact sliding surfaces should be lubed sparingly with a conductive lubricant like NO-OX-ID or similar. What would be the downsides to permanently bypassing the NSS? I know the possibility of starting in gear is there but the likelyhood of me doing that is basically zero. I know the NSS has something to do with Overdrive so I'm assuming that probably wouldn't work. Correct. No T/C lockup = higher RPMs when cruising down the highway. Not good. The NSS should be fixed / replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 OK so are the Aftermarket NSS any good? I can find used factory NSS for around $60. New Aftermarket seem around $100-150. Would I be better off with a used factory than going Aftermarket? I assume as long as it isn't physically broken it should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 The p/n for the a 97 and up 4.0 w. AW4 NSS is 4882173. Prices range anywhere from $300+ for genuine Mopar to $28.66 for a C.R.A.P. on Ebay. I have no idea how the C.R.A.P. will work or how long it will work as I've never used one. As much as I hate C.R.A.P.s for $28.66 shipped I might take a chance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 The p/n for the a 97 and up 4.0 w. AW4 NSS is 4882173. Prices range anywhere from $300+ for genuine Mopar to $28.66 for a C.R.A.P. on Ebay. I have no idea how the C.R.A.P. will work or how long it will work as I've never used one. As much as I hate C.R.A.P.s for $28.66 shipped I might take a chance. Right, usually I try to get the Mopar part but I really don't want to spend that kind of money right now. I think I'd rather take a chance on a used NSS than a new part store one. I am curious to know if anyone has used a parts store one for any length of time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex06 Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Now that the NSS issue is resolved/in the process of, have you had a chance to TS the no-start? I'm thinking CPS as mentioned above, although I would swap out coil first as it's an easier test (using a known good from the XJ).. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newton Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 OK so are the Aftermarket NSS any good? I can find used factory NSS for around $60. New Aftermarket seem around $100-150. Would I be better off with a used factory than going Aftermarket? I assume as long as it isn't physically broken it should be fine. Sometime ago I think it was around July of last year rockauto had the dorman nss for $5 maybe an error in their system now they have it for $116 couple of guys on here snagged a couple @ $5 a piece I even picked up a spare myself..maybe one of them might be willing to sell u one on the cheap don't see anything wrong with an aftermarket one not much going on in there but I maybe wrong but u can find aftermarket ones on eBay for around $30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Now that the NSS issue is resolved/in the process of, have you had a chance to TS the no-start? I'm thinking CPS as mentioned above, although I would swap out coil first as it's an easier test (using a known good from the XJ).. No not yet. I got pissed cause the NSS broke so I had to take a break and have a beer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 OK so are the Aftermarket NSS any good? I can find used factory NSS for around $60. New Aftermarket seem around $100-150. Would I be better off with a used factory than going Aftermarket? I assume as long as it isn't physically broken it should be fine.Sometime ago I think it was around July of last year rockauto had the dorman nss for $5 maybe an error in their system now they have it for $116 couple of guys on here snagged a couple @ $5 a piece I even picked up a spare myself..maybe one of them might be willing to sell u one on the cheap don't see anything wrong with an aftermarket one not much going on in there but I maybe wrong but u can find aftermarket ones on eBay for around $30 Right I've been looking and found one made by AM Autoparts p/n am-42413529 that has a 10 year warranty for $36. If they warranty for that long then I assume it's of good quality. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newton Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 OK so are the Aftermarket NSS any good? I can find used factory NSS for around $60. New Aftermarket seem around $100-150. Would I be better off with a used factory than going Aftermarket? I assume as long as it isn't physically broken it should be fine.Sometime ago I think it was around July of last year rockauto had the dorman nss for $5 maybe an error in their system now they have it for $116 couple of guys on here snagged a couple @ $5 a piece I even picked up a spare myself..maybe one of them might be willing to sell u one on the cheap don't see anything wrong with an aftermarket one not much going on in there but I maybe wrong but u can find aftermarket ones on eBay for around $30 Right I've been looking and found one made by AM Autoparts p/n am-42413529 that has a 10 year warranty for $36. If they warranty for that long then I assume it's of good quality. Yeah like hornbrod said for that price u don't mind taking a chance plus a 10 year warranty not a bad deal.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Well I ordered it and it'll be here at the end of the week. Now to finish removing the old one..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Well I ordered it and it'll be here at the end of the week. Now to finish removing the old one..... Have another beer first. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Well I ordered it and it'll be here at the end of the week. Now to finish removing the old one..... Have another beer first. :cheers: Way ahead of ya! :cheers: Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Right I've been looking and found one made by AM Autoparts p/n am-42413529 that has a 10 year warranty for $36. If they warranty for that long then I assume it's of good quality. Not really. A LOT of AutoZone parts have a lifetime warranty. They just play the odds and figure you won't have the vehicle by the time you need to warranty the part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Right I've been looking and found one made by AM Autoparts p/n am-42413529 that has a 10 year warranty for $36. If they warranty for that long then I assume it's of good quality. Not really. A LOT of AutoZone parts have a lifetime warranty. They just play the odds and figure you won't have the vehicle by the time you need to warranty the part. This is true but the autozone ones are still over $100 so we'll just have to see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Funny how easy it comes off when you can beat the crap out of it. The spring loaded contacts were stuck down and I can't even get one of them to come out. Definitely was the problem. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex06 Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Who says "get a biggah hammah!" doesn't fix anything? :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Funny how easy it comes off when you can beat the crap out of it. The spring loaded contacts were stuck down and I can't even get one of them to come out. Definitely was the problem. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk Use a dab of anti-seize putting the new one in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Funny how easy it comes off when you can beat the crap out of it. The spring loaded contacts were stuck down and I can't even get one of them to come out. Definitely was the problem. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk Use a dab of anti-seize putting the new one in. That is a definite necessity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted March 24, 2017 Author Share Posted March 24, 2017 OK so I got the new NSS installed. Holy crap I don't ever want to change one again, that was a pain.. I do however have some questions. First of all most people say to use the reverse lights to adjust the NSS but my reverse lights wouldn't go off through the whole adjustment range of the NSS. Did I do something wrong or does this happen? I decided to just stick it in the middle and hope for the best. I didn't get the chance to try to turn the engine over in park, neutral, and in gear yet. Second question. Is there a way to adjust the shift cable linkage? When the tranny is in reverse, the shifter sits between Park and reverse and all other gears are in the gear above. For example when the shifter is in D, the Trans is actually in neutral. I unhooked the linkage from the Trans, put both the Trans and shifter in reverse and this is how far away it is. It's not much but it's enough to throw everything off by one gear. I'm assuming there is a way to adjust it in the spring mechanism attached to the Trans but I can't figure it out. Sorry if this is confusing, I tried to make things clear but idk how well I did. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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