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Some progress pictures:

 

Remember the clearance problem with the a/c and the steering column?  Solved by rotating the transmission mount 180 degrees.  Now about 5/8th inch room.

 

4yRKcqV.jpg

 

 

Plate to mount TDI engine to 4.0 motor mount

 

0vxecYk.jpg

 

 

 

Ebay purchased 4.0 motor mount in place on the Comanche:

 

pSpiqSp.jpg

 

Test fitting the B5.5 exhaust manifold did not work out as well as hoped for.  Turbo still in the way of the motor mount.  So looks like the best solution is to use the exhaust manifold from the 1.6 Turbo Diesel motor from the mid 80's.  We have sourced a NOS one from Cascade German.  Should be there Tuesday

 

Last week I shipped the old injectors in for rebuilding with larger nozzles.  Race 520 nozzles will support up to 200 hp.  Should be ready to install next week..

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Got word today the driveshaft can not be shortened.  So we have to get a new one build for the custom length.  Should be done by Friday.

 

Other issue:  The wires on the #3 injector I sent in for rebuilding is close to breaking, so I found another #3 injector in my parts stash.  This one looks good.  Sent it off priority mail today for rebuilding.

 

The 1.6/1.9TD manifold should be delivered on Tuesday.

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Got word today the driveshaft can not be shortened. So we have to get a new one build for the custom length. Should be done by Friday.

 

Other issue: The wires on the #3 injector I sent in for rebuilding is close to breaking, so I found another #3 injector in my parts stash. This one looks good. Sent it off priority mail today for rebuilding.

 

The 1.6/1.9TD manifold should be delivered on Tuesday.

Why couldn't the driveshaft be shortened 1". I had my rear lengthened 2" and front shortened 2" I'm pretty sure. And I would think the front would be harder to shorten

 

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

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Krusty,

 

Can not tell you why.  Didn't even ask.  Time on this is getting short if I am going to be able to pick it up when I am in the mid west for the Solar Eclipse.

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Here is the thread:

 

http://comancheclub.com/topic/53488-driveshaft/?hl=driveshaft

 

Second post says 2 x 4 Comanche driveshaft has a rubber insert.  New driveshaft will be about $265 and that should solve the problem quickly.

 

Eclipse is Monday August 21.  So I get to kill 2 birds with one stone on this trip (I hope anyway).

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Test fitting of 1.6/1.9TD manifold looks much better.  Also mounts the turbo a bit higher.  Still to do some plumbing work to keep all the pipes nice and smooth.

 

 

tPFBs2f.jpg

 

Also, reduced size of all pictures in the thread.  Hope this helps.

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Is that mini starter something that can be sourced elsewhere if those guys go out of business?

Same question here. Although I want to say it's a common aftermarket "high torque" starter for sbc or something.

 

 

Stumbled upon this today.  Hmmm...

3ZozUhsh.jpg?1

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AMan, you had asked earlier about oil pan clearance.  I did not forget about you!  Now that the motor mounts are fabricated and in....Here are some pictures for you.

 

Distance from the bottom of the pan to the top of the front axle = 2 5/8 inches.  This is with the original 2.1 TD factory springs from 1986

 

Picture 1  Whitbread suggests I want to have more room here - so maybe a 1 to 2 inch lift?  Perhaps with 4.0 front coils?    EDIT:  Ordered 1 3//4 inch poly coil spacers Thursday morning to add more room under the pan.

 

IkKATEN.jpg

 

Picture #2 shows I am going to need a remote filter:

 

lGBcpHW.jpg

 

 

 

Picture #3  Top of the engine to the hood level.

jsRScuh.jpg

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Is that mini starter something that can be sourced elsewhere if those guys go out of business?

Same question here. Although I want to say it's a common aftermarket "high torque" starter for sbc or something.

 

 

Stumbled upon this today.  Hmmm...

3ZozUhsh.jpg?1

 

 

Yes, I "think" that is very close to the starter Gas2Diesel uses for all their conversion kits.  I will have to hunt for his post, but recall it was a common starter.

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A-man930   Earlier in this thread you asked about a high mounted turbo.

 

Well turns out that is exactly what we have now with the 1.6/1.9TD manifold.  Here is the turbo being mounted on the manifold.  Notice the electronic actuator on top of the turbo?  Well it will be removed because it will hit the hood.  No issue because we are not using the electronic actuator.

 

b0O6sOP.jpg

 

 

 

Close up of the turbo to manifold adapter in process.

 

gjf8Ndi.jpg

 

 

Finished driver side motor mount with gusset added.  But we will need to do a remote oil filter.

 

FWokLlc.jpg

 

 

More progress pictures in a couple of days.  All for now.

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bitchin!  

Is the compressor housing able to be clocked?  (are any of them able to be??)

 

Yes, it can and is being clocked.

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More updates today.  I will just cut an paste what Matt sent today.

 

Working on the truck now, no way in hell stock vw power steering pump will work. Getting a volvo s40 electric power steering pump from a local wrecking yard tomorrow for $75.

 

It's going to by far the easiest/cheapest way to put power steering on it. For me to make new brackets to mount a pump on the passenger side is going to be far more time than $75 for a electric pump. By fooling the pump controller, it comes on 2.5 seconds after key on and runs continuously instead of varied duty as volvo intended. The motor is brushless so no worries about wearing out. 
 
Coil spacers are in. I removed the factory 5/8" thick rubber spring pads since the poly takes the place of them, so the overall front end increase is only ~1 1/4", hardly noticeable but gets us my preferred clearance amounts. I also added a 1" spacer to where the bump stop contacts so overall travel of oem suspension is the same. When the coils were out I pushed the axle tube all the way up and the tube contacted the oil pan and 4 link bracket to ac compressor at same time bump stops touched. So the 1" spacer will let the bump stops compress and no danger of contact anywhere. But to even get that level of compression in the first place, you'd need to take a dukes of Hazzard jump. 
 
Your rear leaf packs are in sad shape and really should be replaced. Once they are replaced and crap is out of the bed, the truck should be level. 
 
EDIT:  My plan has been to replace the springs when I get the truck home with a new stock factory type spring pack from General Spring.  Just need to make up my mind if I want the Metric Ton pack or the Standard leaf pack.  Think it will be the Standard leaf pack and eventually some Air Lift springs to add capacity.
 

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Seems like I've seen the VW P/S pump be utilized in other (XJ) conversions... just going by memory.  

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Are we to assume there will be no EGR?

"Think" I asked Matt to delete the erg, but don't remember. Guess I will ask. Know I dumped the catalyst. Wanted to match 86 emission regulations. See the picture of the coke up exhaust port.

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Regarding VW power steering. I recall a horrible time replacing the power steering pump in my Passat 5 years ago. I have no fondness for that VW power steering pump.

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More pictures:

 

 

New drive shaft in place:

 

KigqzRe.jpg

 

 

Oil Pan Baffel:

 

508Hg0h.jpg

 

 

Modified oil pickup:

 

JuzG9G0.jpg

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Would you happen to know from what engine code that 1.6 exhaust manifold is from?  I'm not coming up with much solid info on domestic late '80s / early '90s VW diesels; the wiki page is pseudo helpful because it doesn't break down where in the world each engine was available... is it an SB perhaps (~1990 Golf/Jetta)??  

Reason I ask is I'm liking the high-mount arrangement more and more despite not having an easy plug-n-play EGR cooler/valve any more.  

And lastly, did you say somewhere that the ports don't match up to the head or am I just making that up? lol

 

Dig the pan baffle and modded pickup btw.  

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This Is an interesting conversion, I want to see the finished product  :thumbsup: 

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On 8/20/2017 at 6:56 PM, A-man930 said:

Would you happen to know from what engine code that 1.6 exhaust manifold is from?  I'm not coming up with much solid info on domestic late '80s / early '90s VW diesels; the wiki page is pseudo helpful because it doesn't break down where in the world each engine was available... is it an SB perhaps (~1990 Golf/Jetta)??  

Reason I ask is I'm liking the high-mount arrangement more and more despite not having an easy plug-n-play EGR cooler/valve any more.  

And lastly, did you say somewhere that the ports don't match up to the head or am I just making that up? lol

 

Dig the pan baffle and modded pickup btw.  

 

Here is the VW part number for the exhaust manifold and description from the Cascade German invoice:

 

1.6L / 1.9L Diesel Exhaust Manifold 068129591G    Cost was $90 delivered.  They had 2 more NOS after I got mine.  Do you know Cascade German/Bora Parts from the TDIClub?

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11 hours ago, johnj92131 said:

 

Here is the VW part number for the exhaust manifold and description from the Cascade German invoice:

 

1.6L / 1.9L Diesel Exhaust Manifold 068129591G    Cost was $90 delivered.  They had 2 more NOS after I got mine.  Do you know Cascade German/Bora Parts from the TDIClub?

 

I've heard of them.  Thanks!

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It has been 3 weeks since I last updated progress on the TDI engine conversion.  So here it is:

 

Here is the bottom line: I was in the mid west to see the Solar Eclipse and managed a couple days to Matt's shop. Saw the engine start for the first time while I was there and the truck moved under TDI power. By the time I left on Friday morning there were just a few items left to complete.

Here is a picture of the finished turbo mounted on the engine and connected to the stock Jeep intercooler: You will also see the VW ECU mounted under the radiator overflow reservoir.

 

59be946f061c1_JeepTurbofinished.jpg.8f3783b8c2ab59ffd13cc2a1c3977722.jpg

 

 

Here is the lift pump, mounted above the remote oil filter. The Bosch relays are Jeep OEM, repurposed to power the VW ECU/glow plugs and the Volvo electric power steering pump.  Fuel filter is mounted on firewall.

 

59be96356bf49_JeepTDIdieselLiftPump.jpg.4868a0b3281308e76396770b9543697f.jpg

 

 

Below is a custom water outlet adapter to replace the plastic OEM VW outlet that is pointed in the wrong direction for the Jeep TDI conversion.

 

59be9ada52f35_Jeepcustomwaterpumpoutlet.jpg.513022b014a184cd9c142e2456aa0645.jpg

 

 

More pictures to follow.

 

 

 

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Once everything looked ready to start the engine, we turned the key and got exactly nothing.  After rechecking the wiring, we found the starter solinoid was not getting any voltage.  We had voltage to the solinoid relay but no output from the relay.  So we jumpered around the relay and the engine started first time!

 

Here is a picture of the factory solinoid relay. That metal boxbolted to the fender between the red wires:

 

59be9daf44983_Jeepsolenoidrelay.jpg.0233af94a8b767bce890cc26a7e084af.jpg

 

I made a 15 mile trip to the nearest NAPA store for a new relay.  Turns out Jeep uses the same relay for all the 86+ Cherokee/Comanche's.

 

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