Somis Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 About to begin tearing into my recently bought 91 MJ. I don't want to move to quickly buying parts just to find out I could have gone a better route. I really want to start with a few basics to get it performing properly. The lift that was put on used all fixed links, the springs have a huge curve in them, pinion angle is hilarious etc. The brakes hardly work. The bench seat needs to go. I'd like to add a tilt steering column. The crossover steering is already tweaked, I'd like to upgrade to 1 ton if there's a swap. Haven't decided between 33s or 35s. If I stick with the D30 up front then I'll go 33s. Previous owner took an angle grinder to the front fenders, I've been looking around for some fiberglass but can't find anything. I just found out that the rear axle is a D44, so that is good. Not too sure how I feel about the D30 up front with the $#!&ty vacuum lock 4wd engagement. I was hoping you guys would have some suggestions for any and all things above. Life is busy lately and I can't scan the Web like I used to be able to. I've owned a 97 TJ and an 07 JKUR, I'm familiar around tools, lingo, etc. Just looking for the tricks to this MJ/XJ setup, the shot cuts if I can find them. Thanks in advance Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Somis Posted January 12, 2017 Author Share Posted January 12, 2017 Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 If you want to get away from the D30 then you're likely to be in it for some $$$. IMHO it's a decision to make before anything else. Sticking with 33s and the D30/D44 you have now is going to be a lot cheaper than any sort of a swap that actually will result in an upgraded front axle. If you don't like the CAD (vacuum actuated front axle) you can swap that axle shaft for a one piece, shim the shift fork into the engaged position, or buy or build a cable actuator for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Somis Posted January 12, 2017 Author Share Posted January 12, 2017 If you want to get away from the D30 then you're likely to be in it for some $$$. IMHO it's a decision to make before anything else. Sticking with 33s and the D30/D44 you have now is going to be a lot cheaper than any sort of a swap that actually will result in an upgraded front axle. If you don't like the CAD (vacuum actuated front axle) you can swap that axle shaft for a one piece, shim the shift fork into the engaged position, or buy or build a cable actuator for it. I just saw something about swapping the fork to the reversed position, would I have to buy a one piece axle to make it work? I may just buy a lighter, 10.5" or 11" wide metric tire that is around 34" tall and stick with the d30 Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 I just saw something about swapping the fork to the reversed position, would I have to buy a one piece axle to make it work? I believe that works fine too and allows you to use the 2 piece axle setup that it came with. However you most likely have 260X u-joint shafts and those u-joints do not last long with larger tires. I would plan on some sort of upgrade (newer style shafts from the wrecker, if nothing else) if you wish to run a 33/34" tire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desbennett004 Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 I would pull the front axle, replace the whole thing with a 97+Cherokee axle with the same ratio. It's only 2 or 3 hours work, then you have the bigger u-joints, 1 piece shaft, and you don't have to mess around with the CAD. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 I would pull the front axle, replace the whole thing with a 97+Cherokee axle with the same ratio. It's only 2 or 3 hours work, then you have the bigger u-joints, 1 piece shaft, and you don't have to mess around with the CAD. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk You can find those axles cheap, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WyoCherokee Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 Go junkyarding or craigslisting for a 97+ D30. There is enough of them around. start with the basics....new brake pads and shoes, replace the rubber lines with stainless lines. fix or remove the rear weight proportioning valve. It looks like you are running 31's? Those are pretty much the break over for gears up to a 3.55. you can get away with 265/75/16's on 3.55's but its right on the edge of not enough umph. 33's will go anywhere 35's will go, and the amount of work needed to properly fit 35's outweighs the costs, unless you plan to make it a hardcore wheeler. Get adjustable Control arms to fix the front axle alignment. There are plenty of steering upgrades out there. B.Lee, Cav-fab, JCR. I ran the ZJ upgrade on 32" tires for 3 years with no issues. Hannamans makes fiberglass fenders....but if you see trees or rocks....i would advise against fiberglass. There are MJ specific fender flare options.....Napier precision, Bushwacker both make hard plastic flares. There are also a handfull of campanies making steel flares. Give us some more details on your rig. engine, tranny, current gears, list of current mods, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Somis Posted January 13, 2017 Author Share Posted January 13, 2017 Go junkyarding or craigslisting for a 97+ D30. There is enough of them around. start with the basics....new brake pads and shoes, replace the rubber lines with stainless lines. fix or remove the rear weight proportioning valve. It looks like you are running 31's? Those are pretty much the break over for gears up to a 3.55. you can get away with 265/75/16's on 3.55's but its right on the edge of not enough umph. 33's will go anywhere 35's will go, and the amount of work needed to properly fit 35's outweighs the costs, unless you plan to make it a hardcore wheeler. Get adjustable Control arms to fix the front axle alignment. There are plenty of steering upgrades out there. B.Lee, Cav-fab, JCR. I ran the ZJ upgrade on 32" tires for 3 years with no issues. Hannamans makes fiberglass fenders....but if you see trees or rocks....i would advise against fiberglass. There are MJ specific fender flare options.....Napier precision, Bushwacker both make hard plastic flares. There are also a handfull of campanies making steel flares. Give us some more details on your rig. engine, tranny, current gears, list of current mods, etc. I am just becoming familiar with everything, I bought the truck 3 months ago and it's been sitting through the holidays. I run a Christmas tree farm and have been busy, but now I've got some time to tinker coming up. I will definitely start looking for the replacement D30 HP. Is there a way to do a disc conversion on my rear D44? The rig is a 91 Short bed 4.0 with 140,000 miles AX15 that feels pretty stiff, not in a good way. 3.07 gears from what I can tell. 33" Kenda tires (who knew?) Looks like a 3" Rubicon Express lift. All new to me, want to keep it streetable but it's not my daily. I just got myself a new 1500 Ecodiesel. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cody4359 Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 I wouldn't be worried about running 35s on a hp dana 30. I believe that 2000 and 2001 xj had a low pinon, but I could be wrong. I've been looking at fiberglass fenders and if I do, they will be glassworks. As for disk brakes, my comanche 44 has disks off a explorer. I didn't do the swap but I had to replace the calipers and it took some hunting. I think they were from a 2000 or so, I have the part number at home. I think you can use zj disks also, and I remember they had a bigger piston then the exploder ones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 I wouldn't be worried about running 35s on a hp dana 30. Image Not Found Yup. Works fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cody4359 Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 I wouldn't be worried about running 35s on a hp dana 30. Image Not Found Yup. Works fine. CAD dana 30 on 35s Hmmm, Maybe me and the previous owner just used what's between our ears a little more or had better luck.. anything can break, sometimes from stupidity, bad gear setup or just bad luck. The axles I have now are a d44 LP with 4.88, which is weaker than a hp d30 and they are from h3resq's truck that was running 35s and did moab as well as beating it around locally. I stand by my statement Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 Who has published numbers saying that a LP D44 is weaker than a D30? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Chief Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 :popcorn: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cody4359 Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 Randys ring and pinion book does, I can get the numbers when I'm home in a few weeks Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desbennett004 Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 If you are changing your front diff maybe you should re-gear? I changed both of mine, put a Chrysler 8.25 in the back, HP D30 in the front, both out of an auto 99 cherokee, so it has 3.55 gears. Not the greatest ratio, but running 3.07's with 31's was a bit of a pig, running 33's must be painful for your rig. 3.55's can be found anywhere cheap, but if you keep a lookout, you might find some 4.10's which would be pretty ideal. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Somis Posted February 11, 2017 Author Share Posted February 11, 2017 Hey guys sorry for not responding. Been getting lots of rain and have been stuck at work not really getting anywhere. I have just bought a few things to do a tune up. Oil, air filter, etc. I was going to go balls out and tear this thing down but I think I'm going to start mellow and take my time. I'm still trying to identify the life so I know what to buy. It looks like a 3 inch spring life from Rubicon Express (because of the gray colors). Stock steering. I'll post photos as I begin to dig in. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMMagnussen Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 I've been looking at fiberglass fenders and if I do, they will be glassworks. Yeah if you like paying for the fenders and never being able to get in touch with them again. Getting the quote and the 10 day shipping estimate will take minutes. Ordered a set October 5th still fighting with the CC company. Hannemanns arrived in 3 weeks and I will be ordering matching bedsides this summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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