Pete M Posted December 30, 2016 Posted December 30, 2016 I believe the weight of the truck is on the springs via a jack under the axle housing. how much lift?
Strokermjcomanche Posted December 30, 2016 Author Posted December 30, 2016 I believe the weight of the truck is on the springs via a jack under the axle housing. Thanks Pete , the jack is taking place of the tires and the truck is not resting on the stands in the picture(s) I've taken as I stated .
Strokermjcomanche Posted December 30, 2016 Author Posted December 30, 2016 I'm 34 1/4 inches to the lowest part of the flare measuring from the ground through the center of the hub , 20 inches from the center of the hub to the lowest part of the flare .
HOrnbrod Posted December 30, 2016 Posted December 30, 2016 Good reading if you haven't done so already: http://thespeedfreaks.net/showthread.php?9689-WJ-LCA-install http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1018788 http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/wj-lca-swap-notes-torque-question-211573/
Strokermjcomanche Posted December 30, 2016 Author Posted December 30, 2016 what's the other side look like? same? Yep
Knucklehead97 Posted December 30, 2016 Posted December 30, 2016 Here is where it's making contact with the lower bracket , this is with the front axle jacked up and it's barely lifted off of the jack stands . now that is weird. how much lift? what do you have for upper control arms? my arms were installed in the normal orientation. clearance to that particular spot in the control arm mounts was tight, but my truck had no lift so if contact was to happen it would have been under droop and so I paid it no mind. mine was the same way with slight droop. I just ground a bunch off and it's good enough now. I had more trouble with the upper arms clearance at the frame.
HOrnbrod Posted December 30, 2016 Posted December 30, 2016 my arms were installed in the normal orientation. What's the "normal" orientation?
HOrnbrod Posted December 30, 2016 Posted December 30, 2016 The reason I ask is because on the WJs the oval bushing goes axle side .
mikekaz1 Posted December 30, 2016 Posted December 30, 2016 I think your lift is your whole issue... just my thoughts. you could notch the axle, (I wouldn't), or notch the control arms in that contact location to get them to clear/fit. personally id just give up on the WJ arms and get tubular replacements.
Pete M Posted December 30, 2016 Posted December 30, 2016 The reason I ask is because on the WJs the oval bushing goes axle side . really? huh. guess I had it backwards all along. :dunno: learn something new every day :D
Pete M Posted December 30, 2016 Posted December 30, 2016 I think you could notch the bracket as needed and then add reinforcement across the bottom/front of the bracket as I've seen available in the aftermarket (makes a little skid plate)
HOrnbrod Posted December 30, 2016 Posted December 30, 2016 The reason I ask is because on the WJs the oval bushing goes axle side . really? huh. guess I had it backwards all along. :dunno: learn something new every day :D I thought I had mine in backwards for the longest time too until I looked it up. I guess there really isn't a "normal" way to mount WJ LCAs on an MJ. :yes:
Strokermjcomanche Posted December 30, 2016 Author Posted December 30, 2016 Well after reading the threads Don posted and what Pete and everyone else suggested I think my two best options are drop brackets or both the control arms to clear . Drop brackets will also give better geometry correct ? And if I notch the arms and have my buddy who is a certified welder put them together there shouldn't be any I'll effects right ? Thanks for all the help gentlemen .
HOrnbrod Posted December 30, 2016 Posted December 30, 2016 Or get a pair of ~16" curved "fixed length" WJ LCAs. Superlift and others make them. Might be cheaper in the long run than welding drop brackets on. IIRC your lift is quite a bit less than 4". Using drop brackets may decrease caster and increase the pinion angle out of specs, but I'm not sure by how much. :dunno: Using the "fixed length" LCAs close to stock length you can still dial in the caster using shims behind the LCAs.
Strokermjcomanche Posted December 30, 2016 Author Posted December 30, 2016 Or get a pair of ~16" curved "fixed length" WJ LCAs. Superlift and others make them. Might be cheaper in the long run than welding drop brackets on. IIRC your lift is quite a bit less than 4". Using drop brackets may decrease caster and increase the pinion angle out of specs, but I'm not sure by how much. :dunno: Using the "fixed length" LCAs close to stock length you can still dial in the caster using shims behind the LCAs. I'm fine with that Don , thanks . I know there's going to be mixed reviews , but who has recommendations of good arms to get ? I'm not looking to break the bank or buying the cheapest either.... Edit: wouldn't I need XJ arms because the WJ arms would be too wide at the mounts .
HOrnbrod Posted December 31, 2016 Posted December 31, 2016 Edit: wouldn't I need XJ arms because the WJ arms would be too wide at the mounts . Si, XJ. Or TJ. Or MJ. Or LJ. etc. :yes:
mikekaz1 Posted January 1, 2017 Posted January 1, 2017 If your sticking with rubber/poly at both ends... every brand is pretty much the same. It's the heims that you really have to pick and choose with.
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