JeepcoMJ Posted July 5, 2007 Posted July 5, 2007 okay, so for NOW while I wait for the new credit card to come or a loan to clear (I make money, just not enough to get the 89 done by the 10th of august with a TNT longarm....which is being budgeted for), I am gonna lengthen a set of 2" lift lower control arms. what I need to know is, for 5.5" of lift, what is the ideal length of the lower control arms from eye to eye. also, what is the ideal length for the upper control arms eye to eye?
mjeff87 Posted July 5, 2007 Posted July 5, 2007 Check the bottom of Jim's page: http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/re_db.html HTH, Jeff
JeepcoMJ Posted July 25, 2007 Author Posted July 25, 2007 for a 6.5" lift the lowers need to be 17.18" center to center, and uppers should be 15.625" center to center. according to that link, that's what it needs for normal operation.
carnuck Posted July 25, 2007 Posted July 25, 2007 I think it's the stock WJ arms that have the right length AND have a curve built into them to clear wider tires.
Twisty Posted July 25, 2007 Posted July 25, 2007 no, WJs are the same length as stock MJ arms...but they have that bend. ;)
rockhardzj Posted July 25, 2007 Posted July 25, 2007 FukNuts Offroad sells some aftermarket ones, but I do not reccommend buying, or even talking to them.
JeepcoMJ Posted July 25, 2007 Author Posted July 25, 2007 yea, I'm building my own. not even interested in spending money on control arms as it will get a TNT y-link system in the next year. the whole lift project, including tires and rims, will cost me just over $600. that's a 6.5" lift, and 33x12.50 tires. that's with home-built control arms (lengthened aftermarkets I got for cheap), SOA rear, and my own swaybar links. I bought the lift coils and the trackbar, and will buy a rear brake line but lower the fronts to work.
CEThomas Posted July 25, 2007 Posted July 25, 2007 Good luck on lowering the front lines :cheers: I was going to relocate the line lower but just had to put on YJ lines, You may get them to work if you take all the bends out of the steel line and do not secure it to the body, or if you have replaced the factory lines and have some extra steel line that you can pull down out of the engine bay.
JeepcoMJ Posted July 26, 2007 Author Posted July 26, 2007 here's what I did today on the LCA's. right after the bend. cut them on the bandsaw at my friend's machine shop making the plug/extensions had to use the lathe for that... all done with extensions then I cross-drilled the control arms on both sides..8 holes per control arm... for extra strength in welding welding them now, then I will build the uppers tomorrow afternoon, then go to the fair and volunteer for a bit, and gonna install the front lift on saturday.
JeepcoMJ Posted July 26, 2007 Author Posted July 26, 2007 why? and where? I think it will be strong enough...it's a beefy arm and def. quality welds on it. (when they're put on that is...)
Pete M Posted July 26, 2007 Posted July 26, 2007 Along the length to help support the bar. Control arms are under a lot of stress with wheeling and it's not hard to bend them. Sorta like this: Like I said, it's just something I would do.
JeepcoMJ Posted July 27, 2007 Author Posted July 27, 2007 Along the length to help support the bar. Control arms are under a lot of stress with wheeling and it's not hard to bend them. Sorta like this: Like I said, it's just something I would do. yeah, I was thinking of that...but the whole point of bending the control arms was so that articulation the top of the control arm doesn't contact the coil spring mount. I like the idea...and I can always change it if I need to.
CEThomas Posted July 27, 2007 Posted July 27, 2007 That is what mine are ours are like, and you will be OK to clear it.
JeepcoMJ Posted July 27, 2007 Author Posted July 27, 2007 That is what mine are ours are like, and you will be OK to clear it. no I won't, the bend is on the lower side of the axle...
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