4x4 Conversion

[will7798]

So I'll be tackling that conversion this Saturday (will post pics in this thread after) and was wondering before I do it if theres any last minute tips I need, also what all seals do I need? I'm generally green when it comes to drivelines but its still a simple swap. Thanks! Will keep yall updated.

 

[Zebvance]

start soaking every bolt with deep creep penetrating oil to make your life easier. 

[Megadan]

Have a backup ride handy for trips to the hardware store. Soak those nuts and bolts like mentioned above. If you can, have a torch handy (MAP or Propane is fine) in case you need to heat up a bolt or nut to get it loose.  Lining up axles with control arms can be a pain in the butt sometimes, I always find it handy to have a ratchet strap around to pull on the axle a bit to get some of the holes lined up.

[will7798]

And the only seal I need is a rear main right?

[Eagle]

And the only seal I need is a rear main right?

Why would you need a rear main seal to do a 4x4 conversion? The rear main seal is inside the engine and you have to drop the oil pan to replace it. Swapping the transmission doesn't in any way affect the RMS.

[will7798]

I was under the impression it did. My bad. Ill be replacing it anyway though because its leaking

[1987Comanche]

Pick up 2 coil spring compressor loaner tools at Advance, Auto Zone, etc.  One for each spring, compress before dropping the axle, & carefully place the compressed springs in the bed.   After you get the Dana 30 bolted to the UCA and LCA you can drop them back in.

[87Warrior]

I've always needed a drill and tap to fix broken bolts in the cross member.

 

No need for coil spring compressors, especially on a stock truck. Pop off the tie rod ends, disconnect the track bar, shocks and sway bar links and the axle will drop enough to unseat the springs. If not, pull a lower control arm and the spring will fall out.

[will7798]

Sorry I'm just now getting to update, finals have been crazy. Anyways I ended up with 0 issue (apart from going out to buy tools) and went ahead and got new rotors and wheel bearings just to be safe. Got the sway bar links that were suggested in a different thread and they fit like a glove, all thats left now is for the vacuum harness to come in and she'll be ready to tear something up - legally of course :thumbsup:

P.S. I got a new Rubicon Express track bar as well, I'm just waiting for some time to get it on.

[Megadan]

Your slip yoke for the rear drive shaft is sticking out pretty far from the T-case.  Might want to look into getting a longer one, or having that one lengthened.

[will7798]

I noticed that but one of my mechanic buddies said itd be fine...ill have to have some one else take a look and tell me. Cause i just had a shop custom make that one

[Eagle]

I noticed that but one of my mechanic buddies said itd be fine...ill have to have some one else take a look and tell me. Cause i just had a shop custom make that one

 

How much is engaging the tail shaft? I agree with the rocket -- that looks WAY short to me.

[FrankTheDog]

Get yourself a Dana 44 and it'll be just right.

[will7798]

 

I noticed that but one of my mechanic buddies said itd be fine...ill have to have some one else take a look and tell me. Cause i just had a shop custom make that one

How much is engaging the tail shaft? I agree with the rocket -- that looks WAY short to me.

I couldn't tell you off the top of my head

EDIT: went and checked, its got plenty of room to play.

[Megadan]

How much engages when the axle is fully drooped?  That will be when the yoke is extended the most during travel.

[will7798]

Given that theres a little over 2 inches engaged under normal load id say no less than a half inch. I don't have that much travel

[64 Cheyenne]

Given that theres a little over 2 inches engaged under normal load id say no less than a half inch. I don't have that much travel

 

At full droop?

No less than a half an inch? Seems to me I'd be worried if it was engaging much less than 2 inches.