will7798

I think it is, not too worried though, was able to run out to and around King of the Hammers without the efan comming on. I replaced it with a 190* (thats what was recommended but if i should get something different let me know) almost as soon as i got the truck cause it was stuck closed

All ive had it in recently is stop and go around town so ill take it out soon and see if it drops on the highway

how does this help the O/P? i wouldn't consider this over heating, it is close though. do you have an electric fan? what temp of thermostat did you throw in?. how is the condition of your temp sensor? it could be giving a false reading have you pressure washed your radiator? I have my e fan hardwired right now so its always running (long story about compressor issues) and the thermostat is a 190 with a new temp sensor to go with the XJ dash

Would a water pump help anything? My fan clutch is perfectly fine and thats about the only thing left.

Its slightly over 210 and never really goes past the point its at. Is that considered overheating? And if it is, is it enough to worry about or is it not that bad? P.S. Ive already replaced the thermostat and flushed the system refilled and bled it completely.

Given that theres a little over 2 inches engaged under normal load id say no less than a half inch. I don't have that much travel

How much is engaging the tail shaft? I agree with the rocket -- that looks WAY short to me.I couldn't tell you off the top of my headEDIT: went and checked, its got plenty of room to play.

I noticed that but one of my mechanic buddies said itd be fine...ill have to have some one else take a look and tell me. Cause i just had a shop custom make that one

Sorry I'm just now getting to update, finals have been crazy. Anyways I ended up with 0 issue (apart from going out to buy tools) and went ahead and got new rotors and wheel bearings just to be safe. Got the sway bar links that were suggested in a different thread and they fit like a glove, all thats left now is for the vacuum harness to come in and she'll be ready to tear something up - legally of course :thumbsup: P.S. I got a new Rubicon Express track bar as well, I'm just waiting for some time to get it on.

I was under the impression it did. My bad. Ill be replacing it anyway though because its leaking

And the only seal I need is a rear main right?

So I'll be tackling that conversion this Saturday (will post pics in this thread after) and was wondering before I do it if theres any last minute tips I need, also what all seals do I need? I'm generally green when it comes to drivelines but its still a simple swap. Thanks! Will keep yall updated.

I plan on replacing it when I do my 4x4 conversion next weekend. I'll do fine without it til then and when doing the conversion I'm gonna have my buddy who's helping me (he has had more than his fair share of Jeeps in his 40 years of mechanic-ing) take a good look at everything and tell me what I might be glancing over and what needs replacement. Thanks for all the input!

Alright I'll order those up. Update though after driving around without the sway bar I'm still getting wobble so I'll have to do some more troubleshooting.

So I got some bump steer the other day (hitting a bump and getting death wobble) and decided to look under there and see what was up. Everything was tight and the only bushing that was in question was my passenger side UCA but it still wasn't bad. Then I saw this...and wondered if it could be the culprit So what do I need? The PO lifted it 3.5 inches and said he did everything to get it back to stock geometry, did he forget the extended links? Or do you not need them for a comanche? Also is this even a stock sway bar? It didn't seem like it to me just because of how much of an awkward position it was in and the fact that the bolt in picture 3 wouldn't tighten any more and seemed forced. Thanks

Either of em have a maroon interior? My girl just broke my window crank (somehow...) and i need a new one

So do reckon my 90 will work too? Looks pretty much the same as the key that i have now its just got the AMC on it

I think the problem is that it did hang up when i put it in. When i redo it ill check it manually

Will do

Thats what I thought. I just wanted to see if anyone knew any reason why they may not

UPDATE: sorry I forgot about this topic for a little bit, had some issues come up. So the good news is, a '90 XJ rolled into my junkyard a few days after I first posted and was able to trade the old cluster for the one in the XJ and plugged it all up in the parking lot and was good to go. bad news is later that week my fuel pump went out and left the truck stranded in the school parking lot until I could get a buddy to tow it home. Now that I have a new fuel pump in, the gauge isn't working...again. I am assuming that the floater is just stuck in the "sock hole" but either way I'm gonna take it to my buddy who is a Chrysler expert (40+ years mechanic-ing on them) and do it RIGHT, which means draining it and dropping the tank, not leaving it half full and under the truck like I did. Hopefully then it will fix my gauge for the second time.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-AMC-JEEP-WRANGLER-CHEROKEE-COMANCHE-KEY-BLANKS-70-84-/151998035854?hash=item2363c9f78e:g:c-YAAOSwo6lWHTRt&vxp=mtr Why will these keys not work for my 1990? Right now I crank up with an ACE Hardware key (nothing wrong with it) and would love to have some AMC keys but it cuts off at '84...is it a different length/thickness/style? Or will it actually work and the seller just doesn't know any better Thanks!!

Yes you can. Is it a standard or automatic? I'm actually in the process of doing this myself and its really just a matter of if you have the tools/resources to complete it (having friends in the mechanic business helps) and if you can find the transmission transfer case front axle (with matching gears) and driveshaft and have a shop or a buddy who can shorten your rear driveshaft. Sounds like a lot right? Go to your local junkyard and get it all for about 350.

Alright thanks ill give that a shot this weekend and let yall know if it works. Really appreciate all the help

I don't have a wiring diagram no. And where the circuit is torn is on the connector closest to the speedo cable connector so idk if that would be where my problem lies if youre saying the fuel gauge is on the far left connector. Also i have the circuit foil from my cluster with dummy lights still, would that by chance be the same?