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Posted

Yes, it is a sportruck, but it has full guages. Tach, temp guage, battery voltage, oil pressure, everything, but the previous owner said the cluster was replaced.l at some point.

 

I'm not sure if it has the delay or not. It doesnt seem to. It does have the fuse slot for one though. Where would it be if i did have one?

 

Could this mess of a connector that goes on the transmission have anything to do with my issue?

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Posted

Good call Eagle, nothing that is on with parking lights is turned off with headlights. 

 

it would pay to remove the DOME AND HAZARD FLASHER fuses and see if the PARK fuse still blows.

 

the only other possibilities i see on the schematic are the clock and the audio alarm.  i'm guessing that the audio alarm is the chime.

 

if the reverse light switch is disconnected, that shouldn't be the problem unless two of the wires are melted together/shorted in the harness.

Posted

Mine doesnt have a chime module, i see the connector for one, but it is not present. Also the clock works fine, so i never took it apart. Maybe i should.

 

The connector for the reverse lights looks like it was melted down to nothing. Should i cut it off and cap the wires for now?

Posted

would not be a bad idea to cut and cap the back up light harness.  make sure the wires are not melted together...............eliminating one more possibility.

Posted

If the wires were melted together, wouldn't it just turn on the reverse lights? The reverse light switch is after all just a switch that opens and closes a circuit, the same way that a short might. Unless it's shorting straight to ground, in which case it's on a completely separate circuit so shouldn't blow the park fuse. It would blow the trans fuse if anything.

 

That doesn't mean it isn't a symptom of something that doesn't also need addressed anyhow, I just can't see it being the problem at hand.

Posted

Just for grins, pull out the headlight switch all the way and insert a new PARK fuse.  Then try your turn signals, brake lights, and hazard flashers.

Posted

When i do that, everything works as it should. Also if i pull the switch out very quickly, it will not blow the fuse, but if i stop at the first click either turning them on or off, it blows the fuse.

Posted

Hmm. So let me catch up... you tried without the front or rear harnesses attached. And you tried without the cluster in? What about the in dash lights?

Posted

it sure sounds like a headlight switch issue.  Are your new switches aftermarket?  if so, i would go to the junkyard and get a genuine Cherokee switch to try.....

Posted

Melted headlight switch connectors are a common issue. Mine set itself on fire. The wires and switch are spec'ed for the bare minimum of the headlight load, and as the wiring ages, the load increases. Fire bad. Look up a headlight harness upgrade.

It's unlikely, but the melted connector could be causing the short as well.

Posted

Where can i find an upgraded headlight harness? I have searched and can't seem to find any. I want to upgrade that when i fix the headlight switch connector so i don't have to worry about it anymore.

Posted

It will fit. It's an H4 harness, and the MJ doesn't have H4 bulbs, which is why it says it won't fit. But the H4 bulbs use the same socket as the MJ's sealed beams, so it's all good.

  • 5 years later...
Posted

Bringing up this ancient forum… I’m having the same exact issue as Troubador and this the only forum I’ve found with the same issue! The headlight switch connector melted a few weeks ago, I replaced it and the headlight switch. Everything works perfect when the headlights and taillights are on (3rd slot on the switch) but with just running lights (second slot) the park/tail fuse blows. If I pull the switch to the 3rd slot then put the fuse in I can drive fine with taillights and running lights, it only blows if the switch falls into the 2nd slot. Troubador, did getting a part from a junkyard fix your issue? I’ve tried 2 switches from Oreilley and 1 from autozone and they all act the same. Any ideas? I have an 87 wagoneer XJ

Posted
On 11/30/2021 at 12:19 PM, jdog said:

I would check the front harness connector behind the airbox.

The connector seems fine and all the wires around there seem okay too. I find it hard to be a wire that’s rubbed raw somewhere due to the nature of the symptoms. If it were rubbed through somewhere wouldn’t it short whenever the running lights turn on? I can drive with everything working perfect in the 3rd position, it’s only in the 2nd that the fuse blows and it’s instantaneous every time.

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