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$2k would be a bargain for a shop to do gears AND a rear main (on a 2.5). You have to drop the transmission to replace the rear main on a 2.5.

 

I am a big believer in the 2.5. It is a great motor. And honestly, if you are not going to do a 4.0 swap yourself, stick with what the truck came with from the factory. Will make trouble shooting in the future much easier. Plus you wouldn't be relying on somebody else to do the swap correctly.

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what size tire?  what are the plans for the truck?

These are critical questions. You can't go much deeper with gears. You have 4.10s -- if you go with Dana-Spicer gears, there's only one more step: 4.56. You can get 4.88s if you go with aftermarket gears. But a lot depends on what you want to do with the truck and what size tires you run (or plan to run).

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Tire size is 31 10.50 15. Not going any bigger daily driver and use to pull 6x12 trailer with zero turn and walk behind mower. Would 4 56 make that big of a difference pulling. also would 4 88 be to low for highway driving without trailer.

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4.10 should be perfect with 31's. Anything lowet then that you will really start affecting how many rpms you are turning at highway speed along with lower mpg because you'll be turning higher rpm to go the same speed. Maybe you could go to 4.56 but I wouldnt recommend it unless you don't care about highway speed and fuel consumption.

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he's got a 2.5L.  they need a bit more gear than the 4.0 to make up for the missing torque.  and even 4.88s won't be too much for highway and a 4banger.  heck, the 2.5/Autos came with 4.56 gears and they have 27" tires from the factory.  :D

 

 

please don't sink that kind of money into a dana 35.  at least get a late model XJ 8.25 or explorer 8.8 and invest your money into an axle that will last. :thumbsup:  

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your mpg should improve with the better ratio.

Not necessarily true. I drove my TJ for awhile with 35's and stock 4.10 gears. Regeared with 5.13's and noticed a substantial drop in hwy mpg yet a slight improvement in town.

 

If you want to know about how the truck will run down the highway with 4.88's over the stock 4.10's, don't shift into 5th gear. While the motor will be spinning a little faster in 4th than it would with 4.88's in 5th, I think you'd be able gauge the driveabilty pretty well.

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Yes at low speed less throttle will need to be applied in order to accelerate. 4.88's will require a higher rpm to achieve higher speeds. With 33's behind a 4 banger 4.88s would be great but with 31's you are going to turn significantly higher rpm to do say 65-70 mph.

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Yes sir. I was thinking about 4 88s just don't want truck running high rpms and still want to be around 15-16 mpg

Here's a link to what I consider to be the most accurate chart of tire sizes and engine speeds with different axle ratios. I'm biased -- it's my spreadsheet. It's more accurate than most on-line calculators because I used actual tire manufacturers' revolutions-per-mile data rather than just calculating tire diameter, which doesn't allow for sidewall deflection when the tire is loaded.

 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pHFuhGgj6dQDfzyfFJH5z7NCDLW2KX3ABQgAJr3lBvM/pub?hl=en&hl=en&output=html

 

Let's assume that a 4-banger originally came with 4.10 gears and 205/75-15 tires. Well, we can't check that, because I didn't go that small, so we'll use a 215/75-15 as the stock tire. Find the column for 4.10 gears, and we can see that at 70 MPH in 5th gear the engine turns 2705 RPM. So now we want to see what comes close to that with 31" tires.

 

Scroll down to the section for 31x10.50-15 tires. We find that with 4.56 gears, at 70 MPH the engine will be turning at 2713 RPM. That's a difference of just 8 RPM from stock. Not worth even worrying about. That's the difference between new tires and tires that are 50% worn.

 

If you want to jump to 4.88 gears, then we see that at 70 MPH (in 5th gear) the engine would be turning at 2904 RPM. That's faster than stock, but not that terrible. Remember, the 2.5L and 4.0L engines are basically the same design. They both were developed from the original 232 c.i.d. engine that AMC introduced in 1964. Back in those days, cars didn't have overdrives -- they were mostly 3-speed manuals, or basic 3-speed automatics. I had a 1966 Rambler American back then. With stock tires and stock gearing, it turned exactly 3000 RPM at 72 MPH. And those engines typically ran for well over 200,000 miles. So getting your 2.5L up to 2900 RPM at 70 MPH isn't going to hurt it. Just keep your oil clean and fresh.

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Yes at low speed less throttle will need to be applied in order to accelerate. 4.88's will require a higher rpm to achieve higher speeds. With 33's behind a 4 banger 4.88s would be great but with 31's you are going to turn significantly higher rpm to do say 65-70 mph.

 

 

still less than a bone stock 2.5/auto

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They are factory 4 10-4 11.

???

 

What is this a response to? 4.10 was a ratio that the factory used with the 2.5L, but the Jeep factory didn't use 8.8" rear axles.

 

We're trying to help you here, but trying to get useful information out of you is impossible. We can't help you if you won't answer questions.

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Oops on 4 10-4 11 reply. What brand of gears should I buy for 1998 8.8 and 1998 d 30.

Maybe I'm just old (no question there) and dense (probably little question there, either) but I'm still not certain about your rear axle. "8.8" refers to a Ford rear axle, not a Jeep axle. It's a common swap for MJs, so I'm not saying you don't have an 8.8 -- but I'd just like confirmation that you know you DON'T have a factory Jeep rear axle under there. And if you have a 1998 front axle, what's it out of? Is it high pinion or low pinion?

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