MJDigger-CT Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 Heyo, so I've been wrestling with my head lights for a day or so now. Went to screw the fuse box back in place , got it all situated so I thought. Then my parking light fuse kept blowing and blowing so I said ok . Un hooked the fuse box again thought I may have a pinched a wire or something. Every thing seemed good and in place so I said ok then went out front to check the 10 pin connecter behind the left headlight. Barely touched it and the 4 gauge wire? The thicker red one just broke right out of the connecter . The slot it was in was completely full a solid green hard corrosion. I noticed there was no male pin on the other side. Just wondering if someone has a picture of that connecter in good shape so I can figure a way out to make it work thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tugalo Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 do a search. There is a post on here somewhere that explains how to remove and replace the pins in the fuse block. on that post is a link to the company that makes the pins and they have pins for most connectors. Your headlight connector is a weatherpak and the pins come out pretty much the same way. alternatively, i have seen weatherpak pins and connectors on ebay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWoods Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 I'm in maine and I've got a connector for you. If you pay the couple bucks for shipping it'll go in the mail tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJDigger-CT Posted January 16, 2016 Author Share Posted January 16, 2016 Well I'm trying to figure out what that red wire does . Been messing around with my lights today and they starterd to work again. Traced that wire back to a fuse link and a connecter up by the battery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJDigger-CT Posted January 16, 2016 Author Share Posted January 16, 2016 What I see in the schematic is its a 12 gauge red going from fuse link H going to c102 for the fog lamps . My truck seems to never of had fog lamps there for this wire is useless? Makes me wonder why it was so corroded because there was never full draw on it ? On the right track here ? All my lights are working now just going to get new blinker sockets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWoods Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 Yes there is a red wire going to the fog lamps. Not sure what would cause the wire to corrode at a faster rate then any of the other wires would. Maybe the end of the wire where there isn't any casing on it could get corroded from contact with contaminents but other then that I don't know what to tell you. If you never plan to use it, I would trim it back to a point where the wire is solid, put a small wire nut on itand shrink tube it to protect it for possible future use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 You could always eliminate that connector by soldering the wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJDigger-CT Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 Kinda talkin myself threw it. Good suggestion for sure I'm on it . Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 Solder and shrink tube. Don't look back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schardein Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 I had a similar problem, went to the junkyard and cut the connector and harness out of a donor XJ. Bonus that it had the fog light wiring. So I got a connector in much better shape, added the switch bezel and switch to the dash (wiring for switch is already there from factory) and now I have factory fog lights also. You could cut and solder, but it makes removing the front clip a pain in the butt because instead of unplugging one connector, now you have to disconnect all the wiring from the headlights, turn signals, and marker lights. True, you might never have to remove the front clip... my 2 cents. I did disassemble the "new" used connector and clean all the terminals. And as I recall, I had to move a few wires around to make the fog lights work, seems they changed the wiring for each pin over the years. Another option would be to spend some time in the junkyard looking for a more modern connector with the required number (and size) of wires and splice that in. The factory one isn't really sealed, hence the corrosion. Newer ones are sealed much better. It's more work splicing, but then you can still unplug the front clip at one connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Why is unplugging that harness to remove the front clip such a big deal? How often does a guy do that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJDigger-CT Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 Just leaving it as is for now wrapped the fog light wire up tucked it a way. Every thing is working as it's supposed to and that was the goal so that'll do for now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schardein Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Why is unplugging that harness to remove the front clip such a big deal? How often does a guy do that? I would guess most owners never do. I've had the front clips off my XJ and MJ twice each. I added relays to power the headlights on my CJ7. I did the wiring in such a way that I couldn't remove the grill without disassembling the harness (removing the wire terminals from the weatherpack housings, and cutting a few wires). I thought, when will I have the grill off? Answer: when doing a V8 swap, currently in progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 The only time I've ever had to remove a header panel was to fix the wiring the previous owner crushed when reinstalling the header panel........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 I updated to the later model plug, I remove my header whenever I work on the cooling system, or front of the motor, about 4-6 times a year. Simple to remove, and makes life in the engine bay easier. I prefer it to fighting with the closed spaces between a 4.0 and the radiator. But I'm weird like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buckwheat Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Rockfrog, By later model plug you mean a 97+ plug? Any chance you remember how you matched up the wiring for that? I'm interested in doing this but haven't been able to find a good write-up for matching wires across. Sorry if I'm highjacking here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 I updated to the later model plug, I remove my header whenever I work on the cooling system, or front of the motor, about 4-6 times a year. Simple to remove, and makes life in the engine bay easier. I prefer it to fighting with the closed spaces between a 4.0 and the radiator. But I'm weird like that. Correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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