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Rear Hydraulic Brake Hose Replacement


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Hi All, I need to replace this rear brake hose (It's the centre one that goes up into the bracket near the bottom of the truck bed. I thought I read here there was a hose from a 1996 Dodge Dakota that will work as a replacement?

 

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thank you!

 

Chris

 

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Also I should mention that I'd like to put the Wilwood manual valve into the lines at the back in place of the stock height sensing valve. I am wondering if I can just swap the two valves and hook the existing lines into the Wilwood? Do I need to run a hard line from the front of the Dist. Block if I choose this route?

 

Thanks all and sorry to beat this whole HSV thing to death - AGAIN -  :doh:

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Also I should mention that I'd like to put the Wilwood manual valve into the lines at the back in place of the stock height sensing valve. I am wondering if I can just swap the two valves and hook the existing lines into the Wilwood? Do I need to run a hard line from the front of the Dist. Block if I choose this route?

 

Thanks all and sorry to beat this whole HSV thing to death - AGAIN -  :doh:

I would not advise putting a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve under the rear of the truck. I would put it up front, near the master cylinder, where it's accessible under the hood for adjusting it when needed.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Does someone have a good schematic of what needs to be done to install the willwood valve? I know there is a return line from the back and was wondering how exactly to route these lines?

 

the MJ does not have a "return" line.  the second line is the emergency bypass line.  if you ever have a front failure, the front combination valve (it looks like a prop valve, but it's not) will bypass the rear prop valve with full pressure through that second line.  whether or not you keep that second line depends on if the needs of the aftermarket prop valve.

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Recently we did the Willwood conversion on my son's truck. We ordered the valve and the mounting kit - although we had to bend the mount slightly (in a bench vise) to attach it to the booster so the bottom lines would clear the inner fender.

 

Basically, we removed all the brake lines as intact as possible (we had to cut the front passenger line in one spot to remove it). We removed both the lines going to the rear, including the height sensing valve and the two short lines between the height sensing valve and the flex line for the rear axle. Using a cloth measuring tape we carefully measured each line, adding about 10 " (to ensure we had extra if a flare went bad).  Using new steel line coils we cut to length and flared the end closest to the flex lines (calipers and rear axle).  Using line bending pliers we carefully made each bend while holding the old and new lines together. Finally, without attaching any lines, one person carefully feeds them through and around the obstacles until  the lines were in place. We only installed one line to the back, routing it directly to the frame mount where the rear axle flex line attached.

 

We fed both lines from the master cylinder into the two inlet lines on the proportioning valve. The two short lines in the Wilwood installation kit did not work - we had to bend and fit two lines that were less then 3" long - which was the hardest part in my opinion. Otherwise, fill and bleed the system and then test it carefully to ensure the rears lock up just a millisecond before the fronts.

 

A tip: once we had it adjusted where we wanted, my son took a bottle of his mom's nail polish and made a small mark so if he ever adjusted it he would know where the "sweet" spot was. We also found this tool set (especially the bender) to be useful:

 

Available here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5VN94W/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687762&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0075XHDHI&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1TGGW8JEBM2WY5Y444G4

 

Good Luck!

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  • 1 month later...

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