Electric fan temp controller

[88whitemanche]

I apologize in advance but I've lingering the idea about running two electric fans and a 4.0 radiator to do a hidden winch set up for my truck and came across this temp controller to run electric fans for cheap....but want you guys intake on it

http://www.dirtboundoffroad.com/adjustable-thermostatic-fan-control-160-210-f.html

[HOrnbrod]

Which electric fans will you be using? You need to know the amp rating on this unit, and if it uses internal solid state or external mechanical relays. If you are using the stock 10-blade XJ fans, they can pull up to 25A each on startup.

[88whitemanche]

Hmmm...,

And yes I was planning to use the xj fans....

But the site doesn't describe much technical details about the controller....

Even searching the part # doesn't show up any details of it...

[Incommando]

That is a basic Hayden controller. The same part number is used under several brand names. It is supposed to support 2 fans at 30 amps each but you can research it yourself if you want.

[Jeep Driver]

I've used it before....junk......but you can find out for yourself.

[Jeep Driver]

And BTW....that ain't cheap.

 

 

Spal from Summit for about $22

 

Or you can go Spal programmable for about $120

[shelbyluvv]

Dirtbound is a member here. PM him and ask him to visit the thread to answer your questions.

[HOrnbrod]

Google HAY226204 and download the Hayden catalog. I read this controller has a total amp capacity of 30A.

[daking]

I use any thermal controller, however, I always use a solenoid or huge relay. I use the Thermal controller to activate the continuous duty solenoid, That solenoid clicks on the actual power to the fan (s). I've used 160AMP solenoids on my other builds. WAY over kill, but I've NEVER lost one to heat or over loading. on My current JEEP build, I'm trying out some big 100AMP relays. They look like a normal realy, just ~50% larger in size.

 

On my Jeep, I set up a triple automatic, dual redundant thermal control circuit. Using a normal adjustable thermal controller as the first stage. Set the activation temp low ~160 or so. That controller kicks on a 100AMP relay, that powers one of 3 fans. The second stage is using the factory sensor on the radiator. When it reaches temp, it grounds out. That ground goes to a second 100AMP relay, on the other end of the coil that's getting 12V power from a self resetting breaker. Well, actually, every circuit in my dual redundant thermal control system uses self resetting breakers. The second stage kicks on the other 2 fans (out of 3 total rad fans). Third stage is the factory computer that grounds a wire at a set temperature. That ground signal also kicks on the same relay with 2 fans. isolated with a diode. Finally, there is an in cab switch that will fire all 3 fans. 

 

I use 2 different sources of positive power. Each fan is grounded separately. Each circuit is protect by a self resetting breaker. Each Thermal control stage has an indicator LED on the dash, so I know the current state of cooling. I added another temperature sensor in the thermostat housing. There are 2 water temp gauges (after market and factory). And I will be adding an audible alert system shortly. The Audible alert will buzz for more then just over heat, it'll alert for low oil pressure too, as an example. 

 

The design of my thermal control system is to allow for many different types of failures and still have a fan or 2 run. Also, there is some manual by-passing that can be done to insure fan operation. 

[Incommando]

I use any thermal controller, however, I always use a solenoid or huge relay. I use the Thermal controller to activate the continuous duty solenoid, That solenoid clicks on the actual power to the fan (s). I've used 160AMP solenoids on my other builds. WAY over kill, but I've NEVER lost one to heat or over loading. on My current JEEP build, I'm trying out some big 100AMP relays. They look like a normal realy, just ~50% larger in size.

 

On my Jeep, I set up a triple automatic, dual redundant thermal control circuit. Using a normal adjustable thermal controller as the first stage. Set the activation temp low ~160 or so. That controller kicks on a 100AMP relay, that powers one of 3 fans. The second stage is using the factory sensor on the radiator. When it reaches temp, it grounds out. That ground goes to a second 100AMP relay, on the other end of the coil that's getting 12V power from a self resetting breaker. Well, actually, every circuit in my dual redundant thermal control system uses self resetting breakers. The second stage kicks on the other 2 fans (out of 3 total rad fans). Third stage is the factory computer that grounds a wire at a set temperature. That ground signal also kicks on the same relay with 2 fans. isolated with a diode. Finally, there is an in cab switch that will fire all 3 fans.

 

I use 2 different sources of positive power. Each fan is grounded separately. Each circuit is protect by a self resetting breaker. Each Thermal control stage has an indicator LED on the dash, so I know the current state of cooling. I added another temperature sensor in the thermostat housing. There are 2 water temp gauges (after market and factory). And I will be adding an audible alert system shortly. The Audible alert will buzz for more then just over heat, it'll alert for low oil pressure too, as an example.

 

The design of my thermal control system is to allow for many different types of failures and still have a fan or 2 run. Also, there is some manual by-passing that can be done to insure fan operation.