Ford 8.8 swap

[Jackrabbit41]

1987 Comanche long bed 4.0l Manuel 5 spd, Dana 35 and Dana 30. 3 inch RC lift, 31 bfg ATs

 

 

Alright, so I've learned a lot about axle swaps but now that I'm looking for a 8.8 out of an explorer, I just want to know what is completely involved. I've looked at some other posts and stuff so I have a rough idea. What do I need get to do this? What do I need to do? Is it simple enough? What cutting and welding and fabricating is involved? Should I get the axle beefed up with a truss while its out? What gears should I do and how much are they? What shafts? Brakes? Ect? Thanks

 

please don't tell me that I shouldn't does this or some other thing about money. I just want to see what's involved and if I want to do this. I have my reasons why and it's also just a learning experience for me, So if you can just answer with a straight forward answers. Thanks

[Megadan]

You will need spring perches for the leaf springs to mount to.  U-bolts, and plate to bolt axle to leaf springs.  Shock mounts would also need to be added, can be purchased just like the spring perches.  Setting the pinion angle is the most critical part of it, but the best way I have seen it done was to bolt the perches, brackets, and axle in place loose enough to be able to move the axle around to set side to side distances and rotate for the pinion angle.  Once you get everything in the right place you simply tack weld the brackets where they need to go and take the axle back off to finish up the welds.  If you don't have a welder it will be a little harder.  If you can at least use a cheap flux core welder to tack the brackets and mounts on with you can then take the axle to a professional welder to finish it up.

Most likely you will have to run some brake lines along the axle.  You will have to do a little work to get the parking brakes working.  If you currently have drum brakes out back you will want to swap out the proportioning block just like you would for a factory disc brake conversion.  You will need to figure out the pinion flange side of the drive shaft and maybe shorten the drive shaft itself.

That's the basics.  A lot of the detail can be found by doing what you have already done.  As far as axle swaps go, this is about as simple as it gets, but obviously there are a lot of little things to work out.  Research counts for a lot.  I will be doing this swap myself soon once my tax money comes in.

[dunnc1991]

Spring perches would have to be welded on in the correct spot. Factory gears should 3.07, so you won't find a match in an 8.8. I'd look for one with 4.10's and either regear your D30, or find one with 4.10's. There's not really too much to it. Spacers to get the width correct. I personally wouldn't do a truss running 31's, but it wouldn't hurt anything to run one. You also need to get the adapter yoke to mate your driveshadt to the axle. There may be more I'm forgetting, but I'm sure others will chime in.

 

Tree'd ^

 

The only thing with above is that you could reuse the factory spring plates, which already have the shock mounts on them.

[Megadan]

If you wanted to re-gear for 4.10 up front you are honestly better off just buying a new ring and pinion and having your current axle done.  Finding a factory 4.10 Dana 30 is fairly difficult, and when you do find them they are rarely inexpensive.  I plan to buy another non CAD Dana 30 from the junkyard and doing gears and axles into it anyway along with some bracing.

[Incommando]

1987 Comanche long bed 4.0l Manuel 5 spd, Dana 35 and Dana 30. 3 inch RC lift, 31 bfg ATs

 

 

Alright, so I've learned a lot about axle swaps but now that I'm looking for a 8.8 out of an explorer, I just want to know what is completely involved. I've looked at some other posts and stuff so I have a rough idea. What do I need get to do this? What do I need to do? Is it simple enough? What cutting and welding and fabricating is involved? Should I get the axle beefed up with a truss while its out? What gears should I do and how much are they? What shafts? Brakes? Ect? Thanks

 

please don't tell me that I shouldn't does this or some other thing about money. I just want to see what's involved and if I want to do this. I have my reasons why and it's also just a learning experience for me, So if you can just answer with a straight forward answers. Thanks

Pretty much. The 8.8 is a good choice, perhaps the strongest choice without going to 1-ton axles, it is just a little more expensive

 

Many people find a kit like this helpful: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/88SS-31.html. You need spring perches, shock mounts, and u-bolts/plates as your current stuff is too narrow for the wider 8.8 tubes. There are others.

 

There are a few options for connecting a jeep drive shaft to a 8.8, as well : http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=IR-SF88FAis one or http://www.mountainoffroad.com/_e/Ford_8_8_rear_axle_Install_Kit/product/221379/Yoke_for_Ford_8_8_into_Jeep_XJ_YJ_TJ.htm for another. Again these are just examples and there are other brands out there.

 

You need spacers on the rear if you run any wider tire or they may rub. The 8.8 is right at an inch narrower ( so 1/2" each side. Some folks put longer studs in the 8.8 and run thin 5/8"  "sandwich" spacers between the wheel and rotor face to get as close to an even width front to rear as possible.  Others run 1.25" spacers like the Spidertrax all the way around. The rear will be more narrow than the front. The factory axles are slightly that way anyway. 

 

To open another kettle of fish: Now would be a good time to do a SOA lift on the rear if you can afford to lift the front 6 or so inches at the same time. You would use the same parts/labor to go SOA on the axle install either way for the most part.  I did a SOA rear/5.5" front lift for about $700 total but that was last year. 

[Jackrabbit41]

 

 

1987 Comanche long bed 4.0l Manuel 5 spd, Dana 35 and Dana 30. 3 inch RC lift, 31 bfg ATs

 

 

Alright, so I've learned a lot about axle swaps but now that I'm looking for a 8.8 out of an explorer, I just want to know what is completely involved. I've looked at some other posts and stuff so I have a rough idea. What do I need get to do this? What do I need to do? Is it simple enough? What cutting and welding and fabricating is involved? Should I get the axle beefed up with a truss while its out? What gears should I do and how much are they? What shafts? Brakes? Ect? Thanks

 

please don't tell me that I shouldn't does this or some other thing about money. I just want to see what's involved and if I want to do this. I have my reasons why and it's also just a learning experience for me, So if you can just answer with a straight forward answers. Thanks

Pretty much. The 8.8 is a good choice, perhaps the strongest choice without going to 1-ton axles, it is just a little more expensive

 

Many people find a kit like this helpful: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/88SS-31.html. You need spring perches, shock mounts, and u-bolts/plates as your current stuff is too narrow for the wider 8.8 tubes. There are others.

 

There are a few options for connecting a jeep drive shaft to a 8.8, as well : http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=IR-SF88FAis one or http://www.mountainoffroad.com/_e/Ford_8_8_rear_axle_Install_Kit/product/221379/Yoke_for_Ford_8_8_into_Jeep_XJ_YJ_TJ.htm for another. Again these are just examples and there are other brands out there.

 

You need spacers on the rear if you run any wider tire or they may rub. The 8.8 is right at an inch narrower ( so 1/2" each side. Some folks put longer studs in the 8.8 and run thin 5/8" "sandwich" spacers between the wheel and rotor face to get as close to an even width front to rear as possible. Others run 1.25" spacers like the Spidertrax all the way around. The rear will be more narrow than the front. The factory axles are slightly that way anyway.

 

To open another kettle of fish: Now would be a good time to do a SOA lift on the rear if you can afford to lift the front 6 or so inches at the same time. You would use the same parts/labor to go SOA on the axle install either way for the most part. I did a SOA rear/5.5" front lift for about $700 total but that was last year.

Did you buy a lift to do that? And I don't know if I really want 6inches. Doesn't it change how the thing feels and drives a lot once you get that high?

[Zebvance]

yes..... just do SUA if you don't want to lift that much then. You will also need to make or buy a abs block off plate. Some brake line work may have to be done too. 

[Jackrabbit41]

yes..... just do SUA if you don't want to lift that much then. You will also need to make or buy a abs block off plate. Some brake line work may have to be done too.

I have a 3 inch lift right now but I think I'm going to go to a 4.5 eventually. Also what is a abs block and what does it do? Thanks

[Zebvance]

its a plate to to cover up the hole where the abs sensor goes into the diff

[Megadan]

Or just leave the ABS Sensor in the hole and let it act as a plug.

Another option to make the axle wider, and upgrade the axle shafts (and have options for 2 bolt patterns).
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-11790471-yukon-ford-8-8-c-clip-eliminator-kit.html

Not really necessary, but it is an option.  It makes the axle 1" wider on each side, and you get much stronger shafts (and no C-clips) all at once.

At the very least, weld the tubes and housings where they meet.  One of the bigger issues people have with bigger tires and hard wheeling is that they end up spinning the tubes in the housing.  If you have some 312L Stainless mig wire and a mig welder with argon, this would be the best way to do so.  It doesn't have to be a full circumference, but a couple of decent beads would at least be worth doing.

[87Warrior]

The 8.8 swap is fairly easy. I did it as my first ever axle swap with success on my '86. 

 

I started out with a '98 Explorer axle. It came from a salvage yard without calipers or useable soft brake lines/rotors. I purchased the RuffStuff simple swap kit, a Spicer 8.8 flange adaptor, a set of Spidertrax spacers, as well as new '98 Explorer Rotors, Calipers, Pads and Soft brake lines. You can use the Ford brake line from the frame to the axle, or you can adapt a Jeep line. Since my truck isn't lifted to the moon, I simply used the Ford brake line from the frame to the axle. It screwed right into the Jeep fitting.

 

I got the RuffStuff perches welded to the axle in the same position as the D35 I pulled. This maintained the stock pinion angle and made for a 'bolt in' affair. The RuffStuff perches allow the axle to move 1" forward or backwards. By moving the axle back 1" you can reuse the stock driveshaft when used with the Spicer flange. 

 

I did have an issue with the 8.8 install I did not expect. Shock mounts. Yes, the RuffStuff kit include new weld on shock mounts, but they are very short and would have reduced my shock length by 4" or more over the factory configuration. This is only an issue if you are staying spring under. I remedied the situation by modifying a set of TJ shock mounts I had in the garage. I think using a long, curved shock mount from RuffStuff would be the best way to go when staying SUA with the 8.8. These should allow you to put the shock back into the factory position or at least darn close to it. I did try to reuse my factory MJ spring plates with the shock bolt mounted to them, but I was not comfortable with the material left after elongating the u-bolt holes to fit the larger 8.8 u-bolts.

 

Total cost the the 8.8 swap was about $500 for me.

 

I also simply left the ABS sensor in the housing. No reason to buy a fancy plug.

[Jackrabbit41]

If I did do this swap, should I just go with a soa? I don't want my ride and driving to change too much plus I'm a weekend wheeler and Also, would a 4.5 inch from rough country give me much more flex then my 3 inch? And I already have sway bar disconnects

[Jackrabbit41]

The 8.8 swap is fairly easy. I did it as my first ever axle swap with success on my '86.

 

I started out with a '98 Explorer axle. It came from a salvage yard without calipers or useable soft brake lines/rotors. I purchased the RuffStuff simple swap kit, a Spicer 8.8 flange adaptor, a set of Spidertrax spacers, as well as new '98 Explorer Rotors, Calipers, Pads and Soft brake lines. You can use the Ford brake line from the frame to the axle, or you can adapt a Jeep line. Since my truck isn't lifted to the moon, I simply used the Ford brake line from the frame to the axle. It screwed right into the Jeep fitting.

 

I got the RuffStuff perches welded to the axle in the same position as the D35 I pulled. This maintained the stock pinion angle and made for a 'bolt in' affair. The RuffStuff perches allow the axle to move 1" forward or backwards. By moving the axle back 1" you can reuse the stock driveshaft when used with the Spicer flange.

 

I did have an issue with the 8.8 install I did not expect. Shock mounts. Yes, the RuffStuff kit include new weld on shock mounts, but they are very short and would have reduced my shock length by 4" or more over the factory configuration. This is only an issue if you are staying spring under. I remedied the situation by modifying a set of TJ shock mounts I had in the garage. I think using a long, curved shock mount from RuffStuff would be the best way to go when staying SUA with the 8.8. These should allow you to put the shock back into the factory position or at least darn close to it. I did try to reuse my factory MJ spring plates with the shock bolt mounted to them, but I was not comfortable with the material left after elongating the u-bolt holes to fit the larger 8.8 u-bolts.

 

Total cost the the 8.8 swap was about $500 for me.

 

I also simply left the ABS sensor in the housing. No reason to buy a fancy plug.

I found a 8.8 for 150$ but it's out of a 91 explorer. Would it work? The ring and pinion are bad but I can get some like new ones for 50$.

[Jackrabbit41]

The things 59 1/2 inches wide too

[87Warrior]

I found a 8.8 for 150$ but it's out of a 91 explorer. Would it work? The ring and pinion are bad but I can get some like new ones for 50$.

Keep looking. You don't want to deal with the additional cost of setting up a ring and pinion. Plus, the 91 axle will have smaller shafts and drum brakes.

[Incommando]

If you are going to buy a lift anyway I would do the soa but that is just me. Most reviewers speak poorly of the rough country lifts. If you want a 4.5 the Zone kit gets very good reviews

[Jackrabbit41]

If you are going to buy a lift anyway I would do the soa but that is just me. Most reviewers speak poorly of the rough country lifts. If you want a 4.5 the Zone kit gets very good reviews

What's a good 6inch lift?

[Jackrabbit41]

I can't really find much for a 6inch soa. There's one from rocky road outfitters but it says it's for Dana 44, so if I did a 8.8 would it still work? I don't know a lot about soa kits. If anyone has any links to some stuff that'd be awesome

[dunnc1991]

Don't lift it 6 inches. Not being an @$$, but from your posts it seems like you're new to this and going with a tall lift can get messy quick if you don't know what you're doing. Just stay spring under, it'll save on headaches until you get more experience. As far as a good lift, I prefer piecing mine together. I can usually find gently used parts for dirt cheap.

[Jackrabbit41]

Don't lift it 6 inches. Not being an @$$, but from your posts it seems like you're new to this and going with a tall lift can get messy quick if you don't know what you're doing. Just stay spring under, it'll save on headaches until you get more experience. As far as a good lift, I prefer piecing mine together. I can usually find gently used parts for dirt cheap.

I just don't wanna spend money on a 4.5 lift and then want a 6 inch soa 3 weeks later. If I have the axle out I'd just do it. I know it changes a lot and how it feels and stuff but this things handling sucks anyway and I don't drive much. Plus I'd probably have help from a friend who knows what he's doing

[Zebvance]

If thats what you want to do them just buy all the front components for a 6 inch lift for a mj/xj. Then get your axle swap kit and just weld the spring perches on top of the axle (S.O.A Spring Over Axle)  vs under it (S.U.A Spring Under Axle) After that is done you will need to measure the rear for the correct shock size and buy accordingly. You will also need to check how much yoke is sticking out of the transfer case after your done. If its more than 2 inches you should look into getting the driveshaft extended. The front should be good still. You will also have to extend the rear brake lines and get longer ebrake cables. Also as Jeepman stated before, the 8.8 is a offset diff. Just barely though by a couple inches. Just looking at it you can not tell. So when you are measuring locations to weld the spring perches in place measure from outside in. Not center out.

[Jackrabbit41]

If thats what you want to do them just buy all the front components for a 6 inch lift for a mj/xj. Then get your axle swap kit and just weld the spring perches on top of the axle (S.O.A Spring Over Axle) vs under it (S.U.A Spring Under Axle) After that is done you will need to measure the rear for the correct shock size and buy accordingly. You will also need to check how much yoke is sticking out of the transfer case after your done. If its more than 2 inches you should look into getting the driveshaft extended. The front should be good still. You will also have to extend the rear brake lines and get longer ebrake cables. Also as Jeepman stated before, the 8.8 is a offset diff. Just barely though by a couple inches. Just looking at it you can not tell. So when you are measuring locations to weld the spring perches in place measure from outside in. Not center out.

What is yoke and a slip yoke eliminator. What do they do?

[Zebvance]

Really??????? If you are not aware of how your comanche actually is able to move down the road then you don't need to try installing a lift, much less SOA... I tried to help. Not being a @$$ but there is the world of GOOGLE out there. Start researching....  At the end of the day this thing will be on the roads, if you are attempting to modify a vehicle this heavily it needs to be be done by someone who has complete understanding of what they are doing. Otherwise you could be putting other people lives in danger when this thing gets on pavement.... We are here to help by all means but we are not here to cater to pure laziness that is not willing to help themselves. Do some research before, then come over and ask if you don't understand. Chances are a 2 minute search and an article or 2 will answer all the questions you have plus more. It saves us a lot of time.

[Lee21490]

 

If thats what you want to do them just buy all the front components for a 6 inch lift for a mj/xj. Then get your axle swap kit and just weld the spring perches on top of the axle (S.O.A Spring Over Axle) vs under it (S.U.A Spring Under Axle) After that is done you will need to measure the rear for the correct shock size and buy accordingly. You will also need to check how much yoke is sticking out of the transfer case after your done. If its more than 2 inches you should look into getting the driveshaft extended. The front should be good still. You will also have to extend the rear brake lines and get longer ebrake cables. Also as Jeepman stated before, the 8.8 is a offset diff. Just barely though by a couple inches. Just looking at it you can not tell. So when you are measuring locations to weld the spring perches in place measure from outside in. Not center out.

What is yoke and a slip yoke eliminator. What do they do?

 

The yoke is the part of the drive shaft that goes into the transmission. It has splines & slips in & out of the tranny as your truck flexes. If you lift too much it can make it so it pops out when flexing.

 

 

Slip Yoke Eliminator replaces the slip yoke.. And is not needed on our Comanches, Unless you're doing a crazy amount of lift.

[64 Cheyenne]

Or you could PM me your phone # and we can talk about it, I'm pretty sure I can answer most of your questions.
FWIW, the 88 is 8.8, with 4:10s done by me (3yrs ago), spring under, think about 4" lift. Was lifted when I got it.

The 87 is also 8.8, with 4:56s also done by me. Going SOA, which caused a few other problems...caliper bolts...

8.8 all the way, probably one of the best, maybe best cost effective beef you can do to your truck, if done right.