Opinions on temp sender in Heater hose

[ggcnash]

Hi guys picked up a dual fan derale controller for cheap I'm looking to install the temp sender in the heater hose just wondering some of the pros and cons of doing this thanks

[Tommy]

I think if you run it there it'll kick on later than it should. I've read that the ideal place is I the radiator by the return hose. On mine, I switched to a later model thermostat housing. 10 bucks from local parts store and has a 3/8 npt bung for a temp sender. That's my spot for my switch that grounds my fan relay at 210

[ggcnash]

I think if you run it there it'll kick on later than it should. I've read that the ideal place is I the radiator by the return hose. On mine, I switched to a later model thermostat housing. 10 bucks from local parts store and has a 3/8 npt bung for a temp sender. That's my spot for my switch that grounds my fan relay at 210

Wouldn't the heater hose be the same water flow as the return hose? I have a 91 so I already have the port in the tstat housing but it's in use by the ecm sender.

[gogmorgo]

With the stock heater flow valve in place, you have no flow through the heater lines and your fan(s) wouldn't come on without the heater on.

It could also trigger with the tstat closed, preventing your motor from reaching operating temp.

[ggcnash]

With the stock heater flow valve in place, you have no flow through the heater lines and your fan(s) wouldn't come on without the heater on.

It could also trigger with the tstat closed, preventing your motor from reaching operating temp.

Sorry I have 97+ heater hoses in place eliminated the valve should have mentioned that, so I would be fine?

[ggcnash]

My plan is set the temp at or around 205 for first with the second coming on around 215 and each shutting off with a 10* drop

[gogmorgo]

Well, it'll work without the heater on. Beyond that, though, I can't say how well it'll work.

If you do put it there, try to get it in the line to the heater. That way it won't be affected by any coolant temperature loss through the heater.

[ggcnash]

Well, it'll work without the heater on. Beyond that, though, I can't say how well it'll work.

If you do put it there, try to get it in the line to the heater. That way it won't be affected by any coolant temperature loss through the heater.

With my setup wouldn't this basically be the same as the return hose everyone suggests? It's just easier for me to purchase 3/4" fittings at local hardware store for the heater hose rather then the rad hose.

[Tommy]

I feel like the thermostat housing is the easiest, but if you're set on that hose, give it a try and let us know

[gogmorgo]

I was saying you should put it in the heater feed line instead of the heater return line. You'll loose some heat going through the heater core whether or not you have the heater on, so you'll get better performance if you put it in upstream of the heater.

[yxmj]

Best spot unfortunately is in the bottom Rad Hose.....that will give you the best reading.

 

I made mine out a chunk of galvanized exhaust pipe and a bung...

 

 

Here is the whole assembly before welding....(that bolt is upside down in the pic, it should be head down, welded to the pipe)

 

 

Then inserted in the bottom hose (sorry no pic)

[ggcnash]

Best spot unfortunately is in the bottom Rad Hose.....that will give you the best reading.

When your saying bottom hose you mean the return line to the radiator or to the engine? Driver side or passenger side sorry get confused? I would think it would be the return line (passenger) that would be hottest correct? rather then run through the radiator then get a reading? That's why I was thinking heater hose should be same water flow as return line?

[ggcnash]

Now asking all that, what is wrong with the threaded port in the block under exhaust manifold. Where the old temp sensors were, the port is still there in my 91 block with a plug in it has anyone used this location or know why I shouldn't?

[HOrnbrod]

I used the existing temp sender for the gauge on the rear left cylinder head to feed a Spal PWM-V1 variable speed controller for my second fan. Works great turning the fan on and off and switching high and low speeds after adjusting the controller. If you have an temp idiot light however, this will not work with a temp switch.

[ggcnash]

I used the existing temp sender for the gauge on the rear left cylinder head to feed a Spal controller for my second fan. Works great turning the fan on and off and switching high and low speeds. If you have an temp idiot light however, this will not work with a temp switch.

I seen that did you just splice into the sensor? I upgraded to gauge from idiot light have new sensor just need to install

[HOrnbrod]

 

I used the existing temp sender for the gauge on the rear left cylinder head to feed a Spal controller for my second fan. Works great turning the fan on and off and switching high and low speeds. If you have an temp idiot light however, this will not work with a temp switch.

I seen that did you just splice into the sensor? I upgraded to gauge from idiot light have new sensor just need to install

 

 

Yep, just paralleled the temp sensor output wire to the fan controller.

[ggcnash]

 

 

Yep, just paralleled the temp sensor output wire to the fan controller.

I will try this, seems to be easier than other options.

[HOrnbrod]

It's already there; you don't need an additional temp sensor. How many amps is your Derale controller rated at? Do you have the instructions with it? I imagine it operates similarly to the Spal.

[ggcnash]

It's already there; you don't need an additional temp sensor. How many amps is your Derale controller rated at? Do you have the instructions with it? I imagine it operates similarly to the Spal.

Derale 16789 unfortunately I do not have manual maybe I can track one down on the net

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/der-16789

[HOrnbrod]

Rated at 35A, 10A more than my Spal controller. You need to find the install instructions to see what kind of temp sensor it needs. Hopefully it's not proprietary.

[ggcnash]

Rated at 35A, 10A more than my Spal controller. You need to find the install instructions to see what kind of temp sensor it needs. Hopefully it's not proprietary.

http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/200/259/259-16789.pdf

[ggcnash]

Trying to figure it out now