teamsmith Posted March 6, 2015 Author Share Posted March 6, 2015 Drop the tail shaft on the trans and you can get to the top bolts. Impacts are your friend. I'll be swapping mine soon and I will drop the trans first, much easier when alone. What do you mean by dropping the tail shaft? Do you mean drop the transmission/transfer case? Will dropping that assembly cause the engine to rock backward on its mounts, allowing the top bolts to be more easily accessed from beneath? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Drop the tail shaft on the trans and you can get to the top bolts. Impacts are your friend. I'll be swapping mine soon and I will drop the trans first, much easier when alone. What do you mean by dropping the tail shaft? Do you mean drop the transmission/transfer case? Will dropping that assembly cause the engine to rock backward on its mounts, allowing the top bolts to be more easily accessed from beneath? :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted March 6, 2015 Author Share Posted March 6, 2015 Thanks. I'd appreciate any input for the remaining questions. Assuming the weather cooperates, I hope to get the old engine out this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WiscoXJ Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Get a 4.2 short block and put the 4.0 head on it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WiscoXJ Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 http://comancheclub.com/topic/7235-put-an-obd1-91-95-ho-40l-into-a-40l-renix-87-90-jeep/ This should help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted March 6, 2015 Author Share Posted March 6, 2015 thanks. I already have an engine from a '98 ready to go in so a 4.2 is not an option. The link you shared is the same link in my post which has points I need to clarify, such as the differences in dealing with ah manual and an auto. I added a post here per Pete's suggestion to get more views. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 I helped OneOverZero put a HO engine in his '90 a year or two ago. -Temp switch on a Renix screws into the rad and is a temp switch to turn the fan on/off. Keep the sensor on the HO tstat housing and use it for a bleeder screw. The primary CTS on the renix is on the block near the motor mount -Is your HO block threaded for the Renix knock sensor? Some were, some weren't. If not threaded the boss should be there...you'll have to tap it. -Manual trans will pull right out after getting the bell housing bolts AND the 2 bolts that hold the inspection cover to bellhousing. They're threaded from the front and easy to miss. -Getting the E12 without disturbing the trans will require one of those ratcheting wrenches made specifically for E12. If you drop the x-member to access it you might as well pull the engine & trans as a unit. I've pulled: -Engine & 4WD trans as a unit. -Engine alone -Engine & 2WD trans as a unit -Xfer case alone -Trans and left engine alone. The engine alone was actually the hardest to access due to bellhousing/firewall clearance but was quicker than pulling trans/t-case too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted March 7, 2015 Author Share Posted March 7, 2015 I helped OneOverZero put a HO engine in his '90 a year or two ago. -Temp switch on a Renix screws into the rad and is a temp switch to turn the fan on/off. Keep the sensor on the HO tstat housing and use it for a bleeder screw. The primary CTS on the renix is on the block near the motor mount -Is your HO block threaded for the Renix knock sensor? Some were, some weren't. If not threaded the boss should be there...you'll have to tap it. -Manual trans will pull right out after getting the bell housing bolts AND the 2 bolts that hold the inspection cover to bellhousing. They're threaded from the front and easy to miss. -Getting the E12 without disturbing the trans will require one of those ratcheting wrenches made specifically for E12. If you drop the x-member to access it you might as well pull the engine & trans as a unit. I've pulled: -Engine & 4WD trans as a unit. -Engine alone -Engine & 2WD trans as a unit -Xfer case alone -Trans and left engine alone. The engine alone was actually the hardest to access due to bellhousing/firewall clearance but was quicker than pulling trans/t-case too Thanks for this. I started today and got stuck my rusted exhaust manifold bolts. I'm gonna start again tomorrow. I understand that the downpipe doesn't line up with the Ho header and that it doesn't have the hole for the header pipe. Can I reuse the HO header if I use an HO downpipe and drill for the sensor? Any idea of an XJ downpipe will fit an XJ? My engine came with a header but I think I can source an exhaust for the downpipe. I guess I'll go pickup an E12 wrench and see if I can get at the back of the bellhousing. Thanks again... I'll likely have more questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 You might as well pull the exhaust manifold with the engine. You are correct in saying the Renix and HO exhaust systems don't line up. Use the HO manifold and get the HO crossover pipe (XJ/MJ are the same, you can order them from Carquest/NAPA, etc. for around $50). I'll leave the cat converter discussion alone other than saying Renix and HO cats are different, I'm not sure what TN's smog/inspection laws are, and follow your conscience. The cat back systems are compatible if you are willing to play with them a bit. I used a cat-back jy fresh Renix exhaust on my '92 and had to weld extensions on the hangers to drop the system and make it line up. I assume you'd have to do the same thing as you're putting in a HO engine. OneOverZero took his to an exhaust shop and got a reasonably priced system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted March 8, 2015 Author Share Posted March 8, 2015 You might as well pull the exhaust manifold with the engine. You are correct in saying the Renix and HO exhaust systems don't line up. Use the HO manifold and get the HO crossover pipe (XJ/MJ are the same, you can order them from Carquest/NAPA, etc. for around $50). I'll leave the cat converter discussion alone other than saying Renix and HO cats are different, I'm not sure what TN's smog/inspection laws are, and follow your conscience. The cat back systems are compatible if you are willing to play with them a bit. I used a cat-back jy fresh Renix exhaust on my '92 and had to weld extensions on the hangers to drop the system and make it line up. I assume you'd have to do the same thing as you're putting in a HO engine. OneOverZero took his to an exhaust shop and got a reasonably priced system. Are you calling the down pipe a cross over pipe? So if I use the ho manifold and ho down pipe you're saying the rest of the exhaust will not line up? Any idea if the ho manifold will interfere with the renix intake manifold? I'm pretty sure my cat is gone and I've got antique tags so no inspection for me. Worse case if what I've understood you to say as true, I can run it open from the down pipe until I figure out how to connect to the under body section with muffler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 Yes, I'm calling the pipe that goes from exhaust manifold to converter and crosses under the bellhousing the cross over. -Correct. The exhaust systems won't line up as is. Cat inlet and outlet flanges are the same if memory serves so you can cut the flange off the renix exhaust, bolt it to the HO down pipe, and use flex pipe as a temporary solution until you can get it to an exhaust shop. -We didn't try using the Renix intake and HO exhaust. Not sure why you'd want to as there's a port mismatch between Renix intake and HO head. The Renix sensors/injectors will all work on the HO intake but you'll need to figure out a solution for the TPS. Hesco has a sweet adapter but it's around $100. -Antique tags are good :). Will make life a lot easier for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted March 8, 2015 Author Share Posted March 8, 2015 Yes, I'm calling the pipe that goes from exhaust manifold to converter and crosses under the bellhousing the cross over. -Correct. The exhaust systems won't line up as is. Cat inlet and outlet flanges are the same if memory serves so you can cut the flange off the renix exhaust, bolt it to the HO down pipe, and use flex pipe as a temporary solution until you can get it to an exhaust shop. -We didn't try using the Renix intake and HO exhaust. Not sure why you'd want to as there's a port mismatch between Renix intake and HO head. The Renix sensors/injectors will all work on the HO intake but you'll need to figure out a solution for the TPS. Hesco has a sweet adapter but it's around $100. -Antique tags are good :). Will make life a lot easier for you. I was planning to re-use renix intake manifold per cruisers brief description in his tips. I didn't realize there was a port mis match and I would prefer to use the bigger intake on the ho. I guess I'll look into the adapter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted March 9, 2015 Author Share Posted March 9, 2015 Another question on the exhaust. If I were to get a set of pace setter headers, they appear to include the crossover pipe. Am I correct in assuming the crossover would still need some fab work done to connect the rest of the exhaust? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 Yes. The aftermarket systems are made to bolt up to the cat at the factory location. What's weird about the exhaust is that, on an AX-15 truck, the cross-member and rubber exhaust mount are identical but the systems are different. -Don't forget that some fuel system plumbing will be in order as well. Renix compatible injectors fit in the HO fuel rail but the inlet/outlet connections are in different locations. We used Volvo injectors (746s I believe) to get rid of the leaky 2 piece OE injectors. No sense in having a freshly rebuilt engine catch on fire... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted March 9, 2015 Author Share Posted March 9, 2015 Thanks. I was just looking at my ho fuel rail and see that it doesn't have a return or a fpr, I guess it's in the tank for this model. With this obstacle and the tps conversion, I think I will stick with the renix intake manifold for the time being just so I can get back on the road sooner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 The OBD1 HO's have the regulator on the rail, as well as a return. But you'd still be dealing the the TPS, yeah. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 So, after spending 3 weeks of prepping the engine and replacing this/that, setting timing, etc., we've spent the last two saturdays trying to get this engine to engage with the tranny (it would engage the splines but wouldn't slide the last 1" into the bellhousing. We pulled it back out yesterday and saw that the clutch was shifted off center which prevented the transmission shaft from going into the bushing. With the pilot bushing ID being the exact same as the transmission OD, it seems we have to have the engine line up exactly with the tranny before it will go on. I don't see how that is possible. So now we're going to do what we should have done in the first place: drop the transmission, mount it outside, and install. I was trying to be lazy by not wanting to remove the condenser to get the front end off. I have a question/problem: During all the installation struggles, something happened that dumped all the clutch fluid from the slave area inside the bellhousing. I can't see any breaks in the line or that anything is broken. Could it be that the slave overextended somehow and pushed the fluid out? The big question is, do I need a new slave now? I am kind of losing my mind over this project. the truck is an hour away from my house so every time I want to work on it I have to load up all my tools and spend a day out in the sun. We've sunk so much money into it but I'm nearing the point of cutting bait just so I can have my life back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Did you use a clutch alignment tool to center the disk on the flywheel? If you have fluid leaking you probably broke the slave. Buy a new one, not a used one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 I just googled "clutch alignment tool." Yes, that would have come in handy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 Did you use a clutch alignment tool to center the disk on the flywheel? If you have fluid leaking you probably broke the slave. Buy a new one, not a used one. question on clutches: I see there is a different clutch for the ax-15 vs. the ba10. If I get a new clutch for my ba10 but swap to an ax-15 later, can I reuse the clutch? I assume the slave and pilot bearing would be different but the clutch should be the same, right? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 I don't know about the clutches. I would think the splines would be different between the two. If you don't have a clutch alignment tool you are wasting your time. If your bell housing is removable you can take it off and use the input shaft of the trans to center the disk. For the $10 the tool costs I would just get to right tool and be done with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 I don't know about the clutches. I would think the splines would be different between the two. If you don't have a clutch alignment tool you are wasting your time. If your bell housing is removable you can take it off and use the input shaft of the trans to center the disk. For the $10 the tool costs I would just get to right tool and be done with it. I'm not arguing whether I should get the $10 tool; of course I will. It sounds stupid now, but I had no idea such a thing existed or was needed; one of the million things I'm learning as I go here. Thanks again for the advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 I did the same thing when I replaced the clutch in my first car. Never knew there was such a thing. Back then you couldn't just buy the plastics ones. They were metal and were $$$$$. I went the junk yard and hack sawed a input shaft off a broke transmission and used that. I still have that "tool" to this day. I don't think I'll ever have another 79 Plymouth Horizon but you never know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teamsmith Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 I did the same thing when I replaced the clutch in my first car. Never knew there was such a thing. Back then you couldn't just buy the plastics ones. They were metal and were $$$$$. I went the junk yard and hack sawed a input shaft off a broke transmission and used that. I still have that "tool" to this day. I don't think I'll ever have another 79 Plymouth Horizon but you never know! My dad and I spent 10 hours Saturday trying to perfectly align the engine and transmission using straps and 3 different jacks to raise and lower the transmission and engine, convinced it was just slightly off. We didn't realize the clutch could slide around inside the backing plate. When we pulled it back out and looked in the hole, we thought the bushing hole was drilled off center; it didn't occur to us that the clutch was misaligned. In the struggle we buggered up the slave so now I'm just gonna get a whole new clutch, which comes with the alignment tool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strokermjcomanche Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 The clutch kits have different numbers but the alignment tool is the same . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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