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95/96 XJ Booster with ABS - will it work?


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I'm on the hunt for a 95/96 XJ brake booster & master cylinder to do an upgrade. Does anyone here know with certainty if the booster and/or master are compatible with my 91 MJ if the XJ one has ABS?

 

I would think the brake booster would still fit, but the master might be different. Thx.

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The 95-96 boosters are the same, anti-lock or not.

 

The 95-96 masters have different part numbers from w. and w/o anti-lock, so I used a non-anti-lock master when I installed mine. I don't know the difference between the masters though.

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I disabled the abs on a 2000 XJ. The master cylinder will work fine but you need the distribution block from a non abs. I used one off a 94 XJ and it worked fine.

Do yourself a favor and switch over to cunifer brake lines, much easier to work with and longer lasting.

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I used the master cylinder from my 95 XJ that had ABS, I just didn't transfer over any of the abs parts and everything works great.

 

Reeaaalllly? That could be good news for me... hmmm.... Can you post a pic for me?

 

I've used the assemblies from both 95 to 96 XJs and one from a WJ with ABS. As stated, just use your prop valve.

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I used the master cylinder from my 95 XJ that had ABS, I just didn't transfer over any of the abs parts and everything works great.

 

 

Reeaaalllly? That could be good news for me... hmmm.... Can you post a pic for me?

95xj booster and cylinder in my 90mj :

 

 

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I used a new 95/96 booster and master from O'Reilly's, the 1/4" spacer was made out of aluminum. I should have the spacer drawing still, I'll post up some pics of it later if i can.

 

I then replaced my factory proportioning valve with the Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve/distribution block. The bracket, screws, and pre-bent line setup that Wildwood sells for the prop valve is near perfect. The pre-bent lines are of no use as they are both bent wrong for the application and equipped with the wrong flare nut on the master side. The other issue is the outlet for the rear on the prop valve is very very close to the inner fender. A hand bent line will work if you bend close to the flare nut. I'll try to post up some pics of this too.

 

I used short lengths of pre-bubble flared 3/16 line to make the master connections and double flared the other end for the proportioning valve. The master flare nuts are 12mm and 10mm bubble flare and the prop valve side are all 3/8".

 

The swap was made easier by the prop valve as I used the included brake light switch instead of grinding the booster rod to make the lights work.

 

I might have missed something but I'll try to get some pictures up later today.

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