Knucklehead97 Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 I've seen a few people talk about getting rid of the fender flare mounting brackets (because of the studs always snapping off) and just using nuts and bolts with some washers to hold them on. But nobody has ever really detailed on how to do this. Is there a write up or anything? Because I'm really interested in doing it but I don't fully understand how. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 You need to grind the stud bases off the brackets or drill them out, your choice. Once they are removed it is pretty obvious what needs to be done. I just reattached them with 1/4-20 button head cap screw and some washers. But I also added the older flares/brackets to the 97+ sheet metal so some trimming of the leading edge was required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sloride Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 :agree: Once you get the brackets off, its straight forward what you'll have to do. Back in '96, when the truck was 8years old, I took a fender flare off and the studs snapped off then, but you could get dealer replacements. I know I'll run into the same problem when I take my fender flares off to do some needed body work. I plan to weld new studs to the brackets or weld cap screws in place..... Just take your time and think through it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 I don't think Jeep/Chrysler etc. planned on anyone ever removing the flares which is why they used regular old stamped in cheapo bolts, instead of SS or something else in such a vulnerable corrosion prone spot. I have removed, replaced flares several times, and even in the rust free west, they always break. So like Rockfrog sez, after they break off, just, grind, drill them out and use SS hardware... Buying new replacements is also an option if you can find them and/or have the $$. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted December 7, 2014 Author Share Posted December 7, 2014 Oh! That makes a lot of sense. I thought I had heard a couple of people had completely bypassed the bracket altogether with washers and all of that. Must of misheard :D Thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitroxsteve Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 I used bolts and washers to hold my flares on while I repaired the brackets. The problem with this was that I had to leave the fender liners out because I could not hold the bolts with a wrench when installing the flares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottJeep Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 I guess I'm just lucky.... or good with PB Blaster...have taken two complete sets and several off at the JY and only broken a couple. My chosen replacement vendor is Morris 4X4 ......pretty reasonable IMHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted December 8, 2014 Author Share Posted December 8, 2014 When it comes down to it I'm gonna see what I can manage to rig up. Thanks guys :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RochesterMJ Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 To install the flares with screws/washers/nuts and keep your liners: Use a hex head screw (1.5" is borderline too long) Attach the flare by itself. tighten the nuts down real good Install the wheel liner and secure it to the screw with another set of nuts/washers You'll have two nuts on the same screw I used #10 gauge screws. That size is a bit small but I haven't off-roaded with it (no place local to legally go) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 To install the flares with screws/washers/nuts and keep your liners: Use a hex head screw (1.5" is borderline too long)Attach the flare by itself. tighten the nuts down real goodInstall the wheel liner and secure it to the screw with another set of nuts/washers You'll have two nuts on the same screw I used #10 gauge screws. That size is a bit small but I haven't off-roaded with it (no place local to legally go) exactly what I was looking for! Thanks! Any chance you have a picture of it? I get the idea but I'd love to see a pic of how its done if its no trouble Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 I've removed a couple sets of flares with out twisting the screws off. First using a wire brush remove rust. Then soak with PB and let set a bit. For the trouble involved, I think it would have been just as easy to go ahead and twist the nut off and replace the bolts as recommended above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 I used 1/4-20 button head cap screw, 1/4" washers, and nuts. Ground the stubs off and drilled through 1/4" holes where they were. But, I still have to mount the wheel liners, although I plan to cut those down some so they will only be from top center down and back, mounted by push clips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 With most of mine I did the grind drill replace procedure outlined above....I have a welder so tacking the head of the bolt was always easy. One Sunday I was replacing a set on my daughters XJ and found myself in the situation where I was out of mig wire .....so I came up with this solution that worked great.... I had some 1/4" carriage head bolts (with washers and nuts) After I ground the old ones flat......I drilled the holes out with a 3/16" bit......Then I took a chunk of 1/4" keystock Sharpen the end a bit with the grinder.....Then used it as a punch to punch out the holes to 1/4 square.....removed the burr with the grinder....now the square shoulder of the carriage bolt fits right in......make the holes tight so that you have to tap the bolts in ....now you can re-assemble and re-tighten like the are factory :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Nice. .. have to remember that 8ne for next time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted December 11, 2014 Author Share Posted December 11, 2014 Now that was fancy lol :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted December 31, 2014 Author Share Posted December 31, 2014 I just received a couple rear flares. Just the flares no brackets. Upon inspection I noticed that there are 11 holes in the back part of it. They look factory. Do these line up with the holes on the body panel that the mounting bracket mounts to? Because if so then this is going to be much easier than I thought. Attaching the wheel liners isn't important to me currently because like 3 of them cracked and fell out anyways I think. Just didn't want to remove the old flare without knowing first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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