ownedueasy Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Ok I'm converting my 92 2.5, 5 speed comanche to 4x4 and have a stock 2wd driveshaft. I plan on getting it cut.. should I cut the stock one or find a different one at a junk yard. If so what kind of vehicle should I get one from Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 I had a new one built. I took him my trans yoke and shop built me a new one with Spicer joints for $225 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 BTW- Every PnP DS is damaged from the fork lift. I searched better salvage and was quoted $60-70...IIRC for a DS of my choice. Shop wanted $55 to shorten. THEN- you still have to replace u-joints. You could still end up with $180 or so in a USED rusty DS..........why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 ^^ Agree with that. I also had a 2WD drive shaft I needed to shorten after lifting. The 2WD shaft has an enclosed rubber sheath. When I brought it to my local shop, they tested it and it was still balanced, but told me that the rubber inside could be too decomposed to shorten it and they would not guarantee the balance. No charge. So I ordered a new one from Tom Woods (http://www.4xshaft.com/) with new Spicer u-joints for about the same price as above. Then sold the original shaft and recouped about 33$ of the cost. Win-win. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 FWIW i just had mine made for $163 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 ^^ Agree with that. I also had a 2WD drive shaft I needed to shorten after lifting. The 2WD shaft has an enclosed rubber sheath. When I brought it to my local shop, they tested it and it was still balanced, but told me that the rubber inside could be too decomposed to shorten it and they would not guarantee the balance. No charge. So I ordered a new one from Tom Woods (http://www.4xshaft.com/) with new Spicer u-joints for about the same price as above. Then sold the original shaft and recouped about 33$ of the cost. Win-win. Same with mine on the potential re-balance issue & degraded rubber. Heck what could I expect after 23 years and 225,000 miles in a state that uses road salt? I got a shaft with the right yokes for $10 at a local yard. They had a truck bed full of shafts and I just measured yokes until I found one that would work. With having it shortened and adding new Spicer joints it was like $124. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 The 4.0 drive shafts are just a simple tube, no rubber anywhere, and much easier to shorten/balance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Mine is a 4.0 but started life as a 2wd. I believe that only the 2wd's with their longer shafts had the rubber isolator. My '88 4.0 4x4 did have a solid shaft while both my SWB 4.0/4x2 and another local LWB 4.0/4x2 have the multi-piece rear shaft with the isolator. Mine was visibly deteriorated just looking at the expose end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Mine is a 4.0 but started life as a 2wd. I believe that only the 2wd's with their longer shafts had the rubber isolator.This isn't quite accurate. My 86 2.5L 4x4 has the two piece rubber filled drive shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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