FAQ? Should I write one?

[DirtyComanche]

I'm bored, as I'm too sick to really do anything but sit here. Should I make a decent FAQ for Comanche owners/modifiers?

[DirtyComanche]

What I did so far. Comments?

 

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Jeep Comanche FAQS and How-Tos

 

This document is ment to be a simple pre-reader. It does not offer a complete or in-depth coverage of any of the questions. I would encourage anyone who finds that their question is either not covered here, or is not covered in-depth enough, to make a post indicating that they have already read the FAQ, but had further questions. Generally, this document is geared towards people who are modifing their rigs for off-road use. I cannot gaurentee the accuracy of any of the information contained within, as I am human, and a pretty flaky one at that. I'll also take the time to thank everybody I 'borrowed' images, ideas, and solutions from.

 

Common abbreviations and terms:

 

MJ - Factory abbreviation for Comanche

XJ - Factory abbreviation for Cherokee (84-02 models)

SJ - Factory abbreviation for Full size jeeps (Pre-84 cherokee, grand wagoneer, J-trucks)

TJ - Factory abbreviation for Wrangler (97+, known as a TJ in Canada

YJ - Factory abbreviation for Wrangler (87-95, known as a YJ in Canada)

CJ - Pre-YJ open-top Jeep. Lots of different models. (Till 86)

AAL - Add-A-Leaf, a short high-rate leaf spring with a large amouynt of static arch. It is added to a leaf spring to arch it more, providing lift.

SOA - Spring Over Axle. (Covered below)

SUA - Spring Under Axle.

Leaf Spring - Long narrow spring made from several layers of spring steel. Used in many vehicles, notably the rear of MJ/XJs.

Coil Spring - Helix of spring steel. Used in the front of MJ/XJ suspension.

SYE - Slip Yoke Eliminator (Covered below)

LCA - Lower Control Arm.

UCA - Upper Control Arm.

Radius Arms - 'Long' control arm setup that does away with the factory 5 link front suspenion, and converts it to a 3 link.

Long Arms - Long control arm setup, but not necessarily a radius arm setup. It may retain the factory 5 link setup, but simply use much longer LCAs.

 

Q. I have a Haynes/Chilton serivice manual. It really sucks. What should I do?

 

A. Get a set of the factory serive manuals (FSM) from either your local jeep dealership or the internet.

 

Q. I have a 4.0L and a 5spd transmission. Which 5spd do I have?

 

A. Before sometime early in 89, all 5spds used with the 4.0L were the BA10/5 Peugeot. Later in 89, the Aisin AX-15 was used. The AX-15 is a FAR more desirable transmission.

 

If you have a 89 with a 5spd, and wish to determine which transmission you have:

 

 

The BA10/5's case splits along the top and bottom, with a seam running forewards to back. The AX-15 has a large ring that splits the front and rear sections of the case.

 

 

Q. I wish to swap bucket seats out of an XJ in place of the bench seat. Will they simply bolt up?

 

A. Sorta. The seats themselves will fit, but you must retain your MJ seat brackets, as the stud locations in the floorpans are different. Removal of the brackets is fairly easily, with either a drill or an angle grinder, as they are only held on by 4 rivets. Simply replace the rivets with bolts, and bolt seats back in. This is not the best solution, as the seats will be off-center by about 1" - it is however the easiest.

 

Seat Bracket Diagram:

 

Q. I'm having trouble finding a lift kit for a MJ. Will an XJ lift fit?

 

A. Yes and no. The front suspension is identical to that of a XJ, but the rear is definatly different. Does this mean that any front lift for an XJ will fit a MJ? No, not really. Short arm kits will, but most long (radius) arm kits won't. Often long arm kits can be made to work with simple modification though. For the unique rear of the MJ, there's only limited aftermarket support at this time.

 

Q. I hear about converting to SOA in the rear? What exactly does this entail?

 

A. SOA (Spring Over Axle) is the 'easy' or perhaps 'cheap' method of lifting the rear. In simplest terms, the leaf springs are moved from below the axle tubes to above them. In order to SOA the rear, one must have new spring perches welded on the top of the axle tubes, and the old ones cut off the bottom. New spring plates must be made (or bought), as well as new shock mounts welded to the axle. A longer rear brake line will be needed. Typically this will net you 5-6" of lift, depending on perches and what type of axle you have. Don't forget to set your pinon angle when doing this!

 

Q. What is pinon angle? What should my pinon angle be set to?

 

A. Pinon angle is the angle of the pinon relative to being horizontal. Essentially, it's how much your axle is tilted. Tiliting the pinon towards the transfer case output will prevent/reduce driveshaft vibrations, and prevent binding. Generally, with leaf springs the pinon should actually point 2* below the transfer case output, as the springs wrap slightly when in motion. Personally, I feel that as long as you're somewhere in the ball park, everything will work out. If it doesn't, you can always buy shims to attempt to correct the problem. Proper pinon angle is also supposed to be determined with the suspension already set up, and with weight on it. I find that inconvenient, and actually just picked a nice number when I did mine.

 

Q. What is a SYE? Do I need one?

 

A. A SYE (or Slip Yoke Eliminator) converts the factory slip yoke on the output of the transfer case, to a fixed yoke. This allows the use of a Double Cardon (often called a CV) Driveshaft. A double cardon driveshaft offers advantages in that it is less prone to vibrations, and allows for greater slip as suspension drooops. The SYE itself also offers the advantge of allowing you to pull your rear driveshaft, and not having your transfercase pump all the fluid out. HD SYEs for the NP231 transfer case also offer you the benefit of having a stronger output shaft. Now, as to if you need one, I'll give you a firm 'maybe'. Lifted applications certainly won't hurt to have one; although there is next to no point if you're stock. It is quite expensive though, as you need both the SYE and a new driveshaft. Some front driveshafts (look at early fords) can be modified for use, but this is still expensive. Personally, I would say to first try without a SYE (after you lift). Set the pinon angle correctly, cross your fingers, hope there's no vibrations and that you'll have enough slip yoke engagement that it does not pull out when the suspenion droops. If it doesn't work, or you really want to do things the proper way, buy the SYE and driveshaft.

 

Q. What are the major differences between MJs and XJs?

 

A. From about the front of the doors to the back is entirely different. Foreward of this point, there is many small differences, most of which are incosequential. The unibody pockets for the LCAs are functiionally the same, but have a large amount of extra bracing.

 

Shortbed Comanche 'Unibody' diagram:

 

Image Not Found

 

Cherokee:

 

Image Not Found

 

Obviously I've missed many things. I'll add to this, sometime.

 

Q. I need new doors. Will the front doors off a 4-door cherokee fit?

 

A. Yes, they will. You can also upgrade to power options while doing this. Later (97+) cherokee doors will require slight modification of the striker to fit.

 

Q. Which Comanches came stock with a D44 rear axle?

 

A. Assumably only metric tonne Comanches did; with the exception being 86, that got the AMC20. However, when working on 14+ year old trucks, strange things can happen. The best bet is to look. This chart of center sections will help with identification:

 

[DirtyComanche]

Q. Help! My hood release cable has broke, and I need access to my engine!

 

A. In the words of Petermontie "If all else fails, undo these bolts"

 

 

They will release the hood latches.

 

If you have the header panel on, you can pull the headlights and slip a wrench in.

 

 

(A special thanks to Pete on this one, I'd have been screwed without him)

 

Q. I have bucket seats, but want a center console. Will a XJ one fit?

 

A. Yes, but not well. Pull the black plastic peice of vent that it mates to from the donor XJ, and swap it for the one in your MJ. Otherwise you'll have to cut the console up a bit. Pull all the brackets and self tapping screws too. When installing in your MJ, simply cut the carpet near where the brackets go. There is already punch marks in the sheetmetal for where the brackets should screw in. It won't fit perfect, but who's building a show truck?

 

Q. What are these 'budget boosts' I hear about?

 

A. A budget boost is simply an inexpensive lift. Often they are only 1-2.5" and consist of coil spacers, and either longer shackles or an AAL for the rear. New shocks are often not necessary for these lifts. As a disclaimer, many started with a budget boost and soon progressed to having a trail only rig with more rock rash than clean sheetmetal, and empty wallets. Also, you can often build your own budget boost, or source parts from a junkyard, and produce a much cheaper and better lift.

 

Q. I've got 32"+ tires, I've noticed my steering is really unresposive now. What's the matter?

 

A. Did you get a steering box brace? If not, that might be the problem. The MJ unibody is little more than machine bent sheetmetal, and the unibody at the steering box often fails after moving to larger tires. It's best to buy/make the brace before you tear the steering box from the uniframe!

[pingpong]

You forogt to tell them about different lift kits. I mean stock arms, adjustable uppers and lowers, the diferent Long arm kits out there. The dreaded going backwards and putting leafs up front. Also the different makes. Make it clear that Roiugh country ride rough, Rusty's quality is questionable. So on and so forth.

 

 

The rear prop valve needs to addressed in there. As well as the swapping of rear axles, and what is required.

 

I will be doing a write up on my rigs build as soon as it is completed, which could be by the end of this week :D

 

Maybe also a list of different lift makers, and what they have.

 

 

Patrick

[mjeff87]

I'm bored, as I'm too sick to really do anything but sit here.

 

That's an understatement :D

 

Good gawd, that's an awful lot of info there, and all excellent. You could also include a part on converting a 2WD to 4WD....that seems to come up quite a bit, too. I'd gladly lend some help compiling that section.

Jeff

[DirtyComanche]

Comments noted. I'll get to it at some point here.

[DirtyComanche]

New terms

 

TTB - Twin Traction Beam: Ford's IFS style front suspenion. Very useless for our purposes, and makes a lot of vehicles unsuitable as axle donors.

IFS - Independant Front Suspension. Real Jeeps don't have this.

Live Axle - (Also called 'Solid Axle') Axle that is 'solid,' meaning any suspension movement on one side has a reaction on the other side. Real Jeeps (Comanche included) use this setup.

Pumpkin - Housing for gears in a solid axle. Also sometimes called a 'Diff,' 'Differential,''Center Section,' etc.

CAD - Centeral Axle Disconnect (Vacuum Disconnect Axle) Some D30 frontends were CAD, which has a vacuum actuated shifter to engage disengage the axle. Some hair-brained idea to conserve fuel.

 

 

 

Q. I don't have tow hooks or a properly braced aftermarket bumper. Is there a safe recovery point?

 

A. Not really, in this scenario I always loop the rope over the center of the front or rear axle. This might require some digging, or strange bodily contortion. This is still somewhat of a risk, as the suspenion wasn't really ment to do this. Make sure the pull is straight on! Also, remove any obstructions that you can before attempting to pull your the truck out. Hooking the rope to anything else is sheer folly though; stock bumpers will pull off very easily, and the thin unibody tears like paper. The lesson? Proper recovery points are worth the cost, see your junkyard for a tow-hook kit off a cherokee. Or build a real bumper.

 

Q. I have a 2wd MJ, and I want to convert it to 4wd. What do I need?

 

A. First, you should identify your goals with the truck. If you wish only to ever have a mild lift and not really do any serious wheeling, stock components will work for you. If you're looking to run 35"+ tires, you should consider getting a parts donor vehicle that has heavy running gear.

 

For a mild truck, it is easiest to pick up a XJ as a parts donor. You will need the front axle, front driveshaft, transfercase, and transmission. You will also need lots of little things, such as the shift linkages and interior peices. If you don't mind making a million trips to a junkyard, and can get the parts cheap, you won't need to buy a parts donor. Normally, it costs less just to find a cherokee that has a beaten body and desirable drivetran. If you don't intend to regear, make sure that the gear ratio in the front differential matches your rear. You can alternatively take both the front and rear axles from the cherokee, but you will need to weld new spring perches onto the cherokee rear axle. This would make sense if you have a 87-89 XJ donor with a D44 rear. You will also need to have a new rear driveshaft made, as they tend to be quite hard to find. Their length is specific to your wheelbase (long or short bed) and transmission and transfercase combination. As a note, be sure to get a tranny/transfercase from a donor with the same engine! 4cyl transmissions will not work with the I6 (4.0L)!

 

Now, if you wish to build big. First, again, identify your goals. Tire size is most critical for axle selection. Then, look for a suitable donor vehicle, or hit the junkyard. Ford front axles (non-TTB ones) are often more desirable than chevy or dodge, as they tend to be high pinon and have the pumpkin on the drivers side. However, with enough creativity and fabrication skills, anything can be made to work.

 

Q. I don't know my axle gear ratio. How can I determine it?

 

A. The easiest method is to look at the pumpkin (front or rear), and hope the factory applied tag is still there. It will either directly state the ratio, or offer a ring and pinon gear combination. To determine ratio from a ring and pinon combination, divide ring teeth (larger number) by pinon teeth (smaller number). IE, 43/13 = 3.31 gearing. Alternatively, you can raise one wheel, and turn it while counting driveshaft revolutions. If you turn the wheel 4ish times for one drivesahft revolution, you have 4.10 gearing. If all else fails, pull the housing cover and count ring and pinon teeth.

 

Indentification tag for a Ford 7.5 rearend: (Thanks XJ Maki)

 

Q. I want to swap in a NP242. What will I need?

 

A. You're on your own! No, not really. Just make sure the input spline count matches your tranny output. The length difference between the NP242 and the NP231 is quite little, so the driveshafts you have should work. If they don't, expect to spend some coin. Be aware that the NP242 is slightly weaker than the NP231, and the aftermarket support is not as great.

 

Q. What is my wheelbase?

 

A. Short bed is 112.9-113.1" and the long bed is 119.4-119.6".

 

Q. I got stuck, put it in 4wd, and my front tires didn't do anything. What's up?

 

A. Most likely the Vacuum Disconnet (also called "CAD") in the front axle has failed, or more likely a vacuum line to operate it. They can get torn, or simply wear out after 14+ years. You can often repairs the lines to fix the issue, but it will eventually break again. Alternatively, you can shim the shift fork to be always engaged, rig up a cable system to engage it, or replace the axle shaft for a non CAD one.

[DirtyComanche]

Q. Rear Brake Porportioning Valve. What to do with it?

 

A. Ahh, a true engineering marvel. Essentially, it was designed to increase brake pressure on the rear brakes when the bed has a load. This is good in theory, and probably even in practice. However, I've actually never seen (in person) a Comanche that still had the linkage for it intact and working. If you still have the linkage and valve, lift will affect its operation. Now, what to do with it? Well, providing it still works, you can extend the linkage. The lever arm on the valve should be roughly about level with no load. More popularily, it can just be removed. Ideally, one should pick up a XJ combination valve (Also called a distribution block, up front by the brake booster/master cylinder) and replace the MJ one with that. Then run a new single line to the rear, and a new hose off it to the axle. I'd also throw a adjustable porportioning valve in there somewhere, so you can tune brake pressure until the rear locks up slightly before the front. A simple search on this topic will yield more information than you'll ever need!

 

Q. I blew up my D35 rear end. Now what?

 

A. No huge suprise there. The good news is you have options, and that rear end swaps aren't that hard. The most common swaps are either a D44 (out of a XJ, metric tonne MJ, or certain YJs sold in Canada) or a Ford 8.8 out of a Explorer. Both are the correct bolt pattern (5X4.5). The 8.8 is slightly narrower than the D44/D35 that came stock, but if it is a problem it can be remedied with spacers. Another advantage of the 8.8 is that 96+(?) ones came with disk brakes. Other possible candidates include the Izusu Rodeo 12 Bolt (wrong bolt pattern), V6 Toyota truck rears (wrong bolt pattern), older Ford car 9" rears (some are the right width, and 5X4.5), and custom axles.

 

If you get a MJ D44, it will be a direct bolt in. The XJ D44 will require new perches. No, you can NOT use the perches on the XJ axle to go SOA. Brake lines for either D44 will simply bolt right up. New Ubolts will need to be purchased, and new spring plates will need to be made, as the D44 axle tubes are wider. Actually swapping the axles is as easy as undoing the brake lines, shocks, any surviving brake porptioning valve linkage, ebrake linkage, and undoing the ubolts. A heat source (torch) and lots of penetrating oil will speed this up.

 

The Ford Explorer 8.8 is a slightly different matter. Tube diameter is 3.25" which allows the use of D60 spring perches, avaliable at any decent auto parts store. You can also make your own out of some square tube, using an angle grinder. All the stock bracketry will have to be removed from the axle, a grinder will work for this. The new perches will have to be welded on, and new brake lines run. If you have a disk brake axle, you can use two left (driver's) side brake hoses, and run new lines between them. This will allow you to use the stock style hose that runs from the frame to the axle. Longer versions of these are easier to find than ford explorer lines. New Ubolts will need to be bought, although you may be able to reuse ones that came with the axle. New spring plates may need to be made, although I reused the stock Ford ones. New shock mounts will need to be welded to the axle. Actual installation is a breeze, if you measured correctly it'll all just bolt up. A new driveshaft will probably need to be made for this axle, as it uses a flanged adapter on the pinon. If possible nab the adapter when you get your axle, they cost lots of money! As a rule, try to get this axle as complete as possible, the rotors are expensive and will save you a bundle if they can be machined. The ford ebrake linkage won't exactly bolt up to the jeep stuff, but a little creativity will make it work.

 

On the subject of the 8.8 swap, also see:

http://members.cox.net/rough-riders....8/ford8_8.html

http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2003/xj88/

http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/ford8_8/

http://xjfanatic.com/ford88.php

http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/ford88.html

 

Q. Can I swap in a XJ axle to go SOA?

 

A. Yes, but you'll need new perches welded on. The perche widths are slightly wrong. So, no, not a direct bolt in.

[DirtyComanche]

Q. I hear talk about leaf springs in the front. Why, and what will be involved?

 

A. Leaf springs have been successfully used in the front of MJ/XJs before. But first, why would you want them? Well, there's simplicity for one thing; you can eliminate all of the factory 5-link suspension. It's easier to set up an axle for leaf springs; if you're swapping the front axle. Leafs also offer greater stability in the front; which is helpful on a vehicle with a poor weight ratio between the the front and rear. They are also tunable in both spring rate and lift height by swapping leafs in and out. For one to properly convert to leaf springs in the front, a new front crossmember should be built for the front shackles to attach to. It would have to be tied in well enough, or the poor unibody will fail. The old LCA pockets can be used for the other end of the leafs to mount in, but it is strongly advised that you don't. They are not built to take the side to side forces that the leaf springs will put on them. Ideally, they should be cut off and new pockets made out of plate.

 

More on the subject:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... /leafs.htm

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... af+springs

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthre ... did=232083

 

 

Q. I have an auto transmisson. Which one is it?

 

A. If you have the 4.0L engine, you have an AW4. This is a strong and reliable tranny, but it will benefit from a tranny cooler. If you have the 2.8 V6, 2.5 I4, or 2.8 Turbo Desiel, you have a Torqueflight 904.

 

Q. I have a Metric Tonne Comanche. What rear end do I get?

 

A. The 86 Metric Tonnes got the AMC 20 rear, with one peice axle shafts. All other years got the D44.

[DirtyComanche]

Overview of differnt types of lift kits is in the works. This one might take me a while.

 

 

Pete, you're going to have to sort this thing out. Stick it all together into a single post and put it in the Tech section, perhaps?

[mjeff87]

Yer an animal.............. :D

[DirtyComanche]

I'm not really happy with how this came out. Obviously I kinda 'ran out of gas' by the time I got to the long arm kits. I'll try to find some pictures and write a bit more on them.

 

 

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Overview of the different types of lift kits that are avaliable.

 

The Comanche has only limited aftermarket support. This means that we have a choice of only a few complete kits from different manufacterers. I feel that it is better to peice together your own lift than to buy any of the avaliable complete kits. However, for somebody new to the world of the Comanche, the amount of information required to peice together your own lift is somewhat overwhelming. I will attempt to demystify things as best as I am able to. I will first emphasis that the front of the MJ and Xj are for the most part identical. The rears are different though. I will explain how this will affect things in greater detail farther on.

 

Relevent Terms:

Suspesnion Link: Any suspenion component that 'links' a solid axle to the unibody. The factory front setup uses 5.

Control Arm: Suspension arms that link the front axle to the unibody. Factory peices are made out of sheetmetal that is bent into a channel shape, and have a non-greaseable rubber bushing in each end. In the stock 5-link, there is 4 control arms; making up 4 of the 5 'links'. As lift height increases, longer links are needed.

Track Bar: The 5th of the 5 links, it prevents the axle from moving back and forth. The length of it will determine if the axle is centered or not. This is important, as if a stock track bar is used in a lifted application above 3", the axle will be noticeably pulled to one side.

Spring Rate: Amount of 'weight' (pressure) that is required to make a spring compress a given amount. The higher the rate, the stiffer the spring.

UCA: Upper Control Arm. Stock 5-link utilizes two.

LCA: Lower Control Arm. Stock 5-link utilizes two.

 

Firstly, basic types of lifts:

(In order of complexity and 'price')

 

Budget Boost:

 

A budget boost is a simple, inexpensive lift that generally is somewhere between 1-2.5". Normally they are just coil spacers for the front, and AALs or longer shackles for the rear. Coil spacers are, as the name implies, a spacer that goes between the coil and the top coil bucket. Shackles are the 'hinged' portion at the rear of the leaf springs. IMPORTANT: XJ stock shackles are much shorter than MJ ones, if you buy lift shackles for a XJ, they will not provide the advertised amount of lift. AALs are another matter completely. An AAL is in simplest terms, a often short, high rate (thick) leaf spring that is added to a leaf pack to give it more static arch. AALs ride harsh, don't flex well, and will kill your leaf springs. Usually, budget boosts do not include new shocks; as the factory ones can extend the extra distance without bottoming out. They also retain all the stock control arms, and track bar. Budget boosts can often be added to larger lifts, or used to level an uneven vehicle.

 

Typical Coil spacers: (pair)

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Typical Lift Shackle: (RE greaseable model shown)

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Long and short AALs: (Rusty's offroad)

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A few hints if you want to make your own budget boost: Drop shackles for fullsize chevys will act as lift shackles. V8 Grand Cherokee coil springs are slightly taller, and a bit higher of spring rate, meaning they'll give you about 1.5" of lift. Stock coil isolators can be stacked to make your own coil spacer.

 

 

Short Arm Lift:

 

The short arm lift gets its name from the fact that you retain the factory 5-link style front suspension, which is regarded as using 'short arms'. As lift height is increased the short control arms need to be lengthened somewhat to maintain correct caster and keep the tires centered in the wheel well.

 

In an ideal world: A proper short arm lift will include new upper and lower control arms, along with a new track bar. It will use new coil springs to provide the actual lift for the front, and either new leaf packs for the rear, or a spring over conversion (SOA). New shocks will be included, along with longer brake lines.

 

Reality: It'll be a total tossup as to of what is actually included. MAKE SURE YOU KNOW! There's 4.5" lift kits out there that don't include new control arms, but simply just a track bar, coils, and AALs.

 

Some kits will offer 'adjustable control arms.' These are a good idea if you intend to change your lift height at a later date, but still use a short arm setup. They also allow you to play with your caster/pinon angle a bit more.

 

Typical Aftermarket LCA: (Rusty's, bent for clearance. Stock arm for comparison below)

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Adjustable UCAs and LCAs: (Rusty's)

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Adjustable Track Bar: (Currie, I think)

Image Not Found

 

Typical Lift Coil Spring: (Rusty's, 3")

Image Not Found

 

 

Long Arm Lift:

 

Typically, a long arm lift does away with most of the factory 5-link setup. It will still use a track bar, but instread of having LCAs and UCAs it will just have really long lower links that mount somewhere near the transmission crossmember. The long lower links will have short upper arms coming off them, which connect to the old UCA mounts on the axle. This allows for control of caster/pinon angle. This setup is also known as a radius arm setup.

 

However, there is long arm lifts that are not radius arm setups. The Teraflex kit is such. It retains the (stock-style) short UCAs, but uses long LCAs. It also has a track bar.

 

A long arm setup is a near must-have for anything over 6" of lift, as otherwise your ride quality will be far from nice. You can use drop brackets instead, though (covered later). The quick synopsis of why ride quality will suffer without long arms or drop brackets, is that control angles are affected by ride height. As the control arm angle becomes steeper, the axle has to move forewards as it moves up. This means that when you hit a bump, the suspension resists moving up as it needs to move foreward at the same time, which it can't do as it is being driven back by what you're hitting. They also puts greater stress on your suspenion componenets.

 

 

Typical Long (radius) Arm setup: (Rusty's, I DO NOT ADVISE BUYING THIS KIT)

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Teraflex Long Arm Kit: (AS you can see, it only includes the longer lower arms, and the short upper arms do not attach to them)

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[pingpong]

I throw a few more curves to you now.

 

On the tranny's you forgot about the auto's that were available. Aw4 and the TF909.

 

 

On the axle you forgot about the AMC 20

 

On lifts you forgot about Drop Brakcets, and the more advanced 3links and 4 links. also 1/4 ellipticals (this is what I am researching for the rear of my trail rig :twisted: ) just a lil different.

 

 

 

 

 

Patrick

[DirtyComanche]

I didn't want to get into the auto trannies, but I guess I could put it down. It is asked. I think I mentioned that the 86 Metric Tonne got the AMC20, maybe not... (Okay, I inserted these ones, somewhere back up a ways)

 

I didn't cover all the manuals, just the Ba10/5 and Ax-15. I don't think I'll bother.

 

 

 

And the whole suspenion thing I just ran out of gas on. I'll get back to work on it tonight I think. I might have to make my own diagrams for some of it.

[mjeff87]

No love for us 2.5L guys with our AX4/5's :( I see how y'are.....(j/k)

Jeff

[Pete M]

I'll fill in more as I get time (real busy at the moment with classes). I recommend limiting your scope a bit. Try to hit up the questions that only have an answer or 2, otherwise it'll grow out of control in a hurry. My general fear with FAQs is that readers will think of them as the etched-in-stone truth and so we need to make sure that what we put in there is as such. Facts only, no opinions. Or if it takes a huge paragraph to explain and hit all the details and possibilities, maybe it should be left for regular discussions? There are soooooo many questions that could be included, it hurts my brain to think where the cutoff should be. Or maybe my brain just hurts anyways cause it's late and I have to get up early tomorrow... :(

Jeep on!

--Pete

[DirtyComanche]

Some of them have huge paragraphs, yet still only scatch the surface. I tried to make sure it was clear that it was not a be all, end all.

 

 

Besides, nobody reads FAQs anyways. I'm sure it won't limit anything.

 

 

And I'm not going to get into manufacterers. It's not worth the effort.

[Pete M]

Besides, nobody reads FAQs anyways.

 

:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :roll:

[DirtyComanche]

I pretty much finished off all the suspension part that I'll write. I don't really feel like getting into true 4 and 3 links, or even 1/4 elliptical. I figure if you've gotten that far you shouldn't be reading a FAQ.

[pingpong]

I pretty much finished off all the suspension part that I'll write. I don't really feel like getting into true 4 and 3 links, or even 1/4 elliptical. I figure if you've gotten that far you shouldn't be reading a FAQ.

 

C'mon now.... You know ppl will read about that stuff :roll: But you are right there are a lot of opinions out there, and you have to wade through that to get to the truth :? Like I said I am still in the research phase on the 1/4 ellipticals. I will keep you all posted.

 

 

 

Patrick

[sinnaevd]

this just clarrified a lot of my "babyISH" questions...gave me good insihgt on what I was getting into.

 

WIll have a lot more questions, but will get into them later once I start to really get into the build.

[DirtyComanche]

Well, that was the purpose of the thread. Unfortunatly I got lazy and never bothered to finish it, and Pete doesn't believe in FAQs anyways.

[Pete M]

Oh yeah, blame me for your laziness. :D

[sinnaevd]

I think you should finish it one day when you get a chance...and should make it a sticky.

 

i never fully have the time to glance waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay back down the tech articles just to see what has been written...kinda why I fell like a jerk for asking so many questions be4 without having read this first lol!

[jage]

There is FAQ software much like the forum software - the FAQ could live a slightly separate life on ComancheClub.com with a bit of hack and tap. It would certainly be easier to maintain and read.