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Free Dana 44 (Help)


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So i have got my hands on a front and rear axle combo for free a little while ago when i bought a cherokee. the seller was moving and said that i could have the axle combo for free and that it came out of a comanche. it is a D44 rear and i found a tag that said use limited slip diff lube only. guesing that it is LSD?  found another marking with 3:54 guesing that is the gearing ratio and then a 46-13 i am not sure what this means??

 

So here's the questions

 

1) i plan to run a 4.5in lift with 32x10.50R15 tires should i regear to 4:56?

2) If i regear what parts would i need?

3) is this something i could do myself with only basic mech knowledge?

4) Is limited slip good?

 

Thank you for all your help in advance and if i have to broad of questions i am sorry and if needed let me know what info you need.

Matt

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The ring gear has 46 teeth and the pinion gear has 13 teeth. 46/13 = 3.538

 

You could regear to 4.10 or 4.56. You'll need a new ring and pinion set and a master install kit, which will include all the necessary bearings and seals. The regear job is best left to an experienced installer. Some specialty tools are required.

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As long as you don't plan on going any bigger than 32's or 265/75/16 4.10's will be sufficient.

I had that in my XJ and it worked great for all around use and hauling.

If you want to use the LSD you can get thick gears that will work with the 3.54 carrier.

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3.54's are only adequate with 32's...but just barely. I am on my second Comanche with 3.54's and either 32x11.5x15's or 265/75/16's and 3.54's .They are livable both on road and off depending on your terrain. If you wheeled mostly rocks I would re-gear for sure. On the road you will not be the fastest thing out there but you can get up to speed to merge onto the highway and keep from getting killed. You can take a clapped-out ricer Civic from light to light as well. :brows: A re-gear is on my to-do list, though. Thick gears will save the cost of the rear carrier and may be the way to go to preserve your LSD assuming it is still working. For the front you will still need a new carrier to change ratio to match. I would go 4.10's for a street truck but 4.56's if you will do a good amount of off-roading.

 

So as to do it yourself.... it requires specialized tools to do it yourself and experience helps. If you are in with a local 4x4 group you can usually find someone with both to do it for you for a few bucks. Around here the going rate is around $100/axle.

 

Limited slip is good. It is not the same as a locker though. They have a bias determined by clutch strength and condition. When the bias is overcome they act just like an open diff. A good LSD can probably stay locked about 80% of the time that a locker does. The LSD is better in snow, wet pavement, and general street driving.

 

So for re-gear parts:

Rear = ring & pinion set, new carrier if you do not use the D44-specific "thick" gear set, rebuild kit, and lube. If you use the thick set and retain your LSD you need the additive as well.

 

Front = ring & pinion set, new carrier, rebuild kit, and lube.

 

Some people use gaskets on diff covers, some use RTV. Some rebuild kits come with a tube of RTV.

 

Remember that you will also need at a minimum new spring perches, u-bolts, and welding skills to adapt the XJ axle to an MJ. This might make doing an SOA instead of a add-a-leaf or spring pack lift easier. You will get about 5.5-6" of lift out of it. There are some how-to threads including one in my sig and another on-road oriented one pinned in the ( IIRC) DIY section.

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I ran 33" on 4.10 in my TJ 4.0l 3speed auto (no od) it was a thirsty dog.

 

But then running 285/75/16/12.5 (33.5?) Old heavy mud kings on my 2.5l 4speed 3.55gear stick MJ was actually much better.

 

I think it's got a lot to do with your entire setup more than just gears.

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Thank you all for your replies and input.

 

My MJ is a 4.0 I6 5speed manual will this effect what i should decide on?

 

so the concensious is that 4:10s or 4:56 will work. if i decide to do light offroading pulling my trailer would 4:56 be the better option? I'm kinda of confused on the carrier? if i use thick gears i won't need a new one or will i need one regardless.

 

Rear= new ring and pinion at 4:56 Thick, a rebuild kit (is this the same as the Master install kit?) and additive (is there a specific kind?)

 

Front= New Carrier, New ring and pinion, rebuild kit and lube

 

is there a specific brand you would all recomend for the parts?

 

Incommando- i appreciate the indepth an response this, i am new to the area and will be looking for a club who might beable to help me out with the rebuild. as far as the perches and springs the axles are MJ specific so i should not need to redo anything to them correct.

 

again thank you everyone for you responses and input with what you are running and how they work/ didnt work for you.

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As you change lift height, being that the axles are mj specific, I would simply replace all driveshaft ujoints.    The rear ds is long enough to be largely unaffected by lift, but changing operating angles of used worn in ujoints will increase chances of losing them.

 

Of course, your rear driveshaft is too long for a Dana 44 and will need to be cut down 1" shorter.

 

Also, never regear your own axles for the first time on a road use vehicle.  If you get it wrong, you end up throwing away time and money. 

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My mistake. I read that you bought an XJ and missed the fact that they are Commanche axles. Yes they should bolt in.

A rebuild kit = master install kit.

 

"Thick" gears enable you to keep your stock rear carrier which in this case is a traclock LSD. You will need either 1. Thick gears and your factory LSD carrier or 2. Standard gears and a new carrier. For 95% of us an LSD is all that is needed so I personally would go with #1. If you do go with option two you can get an open carrier for about $100 or use it as an opportunity to upgrade to an aftermarket carrier like a TrueTrac or Detroit for $400 and up. You will need a new carrier for the front either way. You have the same carrier options for the front and at roughly the same prices as the rear.

 

Cheap gear sets are more prone to making a whinning noise when moving. USA Standard is an example of this. More expensive sets like Yukon ( a more expensive line from the same supplier) do not. Your tolerance for such things should be your guide. My last cheapies were Motive Gear who also offers two levels of quality/price. I was probably lucky in that they were quiet.

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It still affects driveshaft length. Moreso with swb.

 

I have a 4.0/ auto/ np231/ d44/ shortbed mj rear driveshaft in need of new ujoints but otherwise nice. Came off an 87 chief. Should be under $40 in shipping.

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It still affects driveshaft length. Moreso with swb.

 

I have a 4.0/ auto/ np231/ d44/ shortbed mj rear driveshaft in need of new ujoints but otherwise nice. Came off an 87 chief. Should be under $40 in shipping.

So, since you're getting the Dana 30 ring and pinion and carrier along with the 44 ring and pinion with carrier, all I have left is a 44 ring and pinion in 4.10.

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just go the ring and pinions and carriers thanks Cruiser. :thumbsup:

 

Just gotta clean all the broken styrofoam out of everything now. lol other than that they look good!  :cheers:

I was just gonna check FedEx Tracking. Like the box I shipped them in? LOL. 

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