Spring Perch, Please Support Or Reject My Theory

[Jeep Driver]

I took the angle from the truck with the existing D35 and transferred those to the 8.25

 

Before I tack the perches I just want to make sure I'm on the right track.

 

Thanks.

 

Image Not Found

 

Image Not Found

 

Image Not Found

 

[Blue XJ]

If the pinion on the 8.25 is a different length it will change the geometry. I don't remember from when I did the switch, but it should get you close enough. Id tack it, toss it under the truck and measure your pinion to driveshaft angle to confirm.

[mnkyboy]

I typically put the axle in with no welds and the u bolts barely tight,then you can move the axle on the perches to make all your adjustments before you weld.

 

Once its perfect you can tack it then drop the axle out to finish the welds.

[Blue XJ]

I typically put the axle in with no welds and the u bolts barely tight,then you can move the axle on the perches to make all your adjustments before you weld.

 

Once its perfect you can tack it then drop the axle out to finish the welds.

 

 

That's my process as well.

[xjrev10]

I have also done it that way, even as far and hooking up the driveshaft. Keeping everything loose, tacking and then pulling it all back apart to weld. Fool proof way to do it.

[Jeep Driver]

My problem is that my truck is my daily driver, I have one day to do the swap.

 

I need it completely set up..brakes..etc.....

[mnkyboy]

Should be able to easily do it in a day, the axle can be ready to go. Slap it in there adjust it, tack it then take it apart just enough to get in there to weld it.

 

Pretty much just need to pull the u bolts out of the way to finish the welding, then bolt it back down and your done.

[Incommando]

I typically put the axle in with no welds and the u bolts barely tight,then you can move the axle on the perches to make all your adjustments before you weld.

 

Once its perfect you can tack it then drop the axle out to finish the welds.

This is how I do it, as well. But I understand if you have to have it pre-welded and ready to go at tear down. Been there done that. If you are running the factory style rear drive shaft then measure the angle of the yoke on the output. Match that angle on the pinion output of the axle. That is the correct geometry if you are not running a CV/double cardon joint. 

http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.asp

[Herc]

Has the extra length of the 8.25 at the pinion been taken into account? I believe they are 1" longer than the D35 from axle centreline.

 

I also temp bolt in and adjust the angles then tack and pull to burn in.

[Jeep Driver]

Well, thanks guys.

 

I was looking for a magic formula, I guess.

 

The reason as mentioned before is the one day swap but I also want to have is blasted and painted and ready to go.

 

I raised the snout 2 degrees and put her to bed. I'll let you know how it works out.

 

Image Not Found