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Spring Perch, Please Support Or Reject My Theory


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If the pinion on the 8.25 is a different length it will change the geometry. I don't remember from when I did the switch, but it should get you close enough. Id tack it, toss it under the truck and measure your pinion to driveshaft angle to confirm.

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I typically put the axle in with no welds and the u bolts barely tight,then you can move the axle on the perches to make all your adjustments before you weld.

 

Once its perfect you can tack it then drop the axle out to finish the welds.

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I typically put the axle in with no welds and the u bolts barely tight,then you can move the axle on the perches to make all your adjustments before you weld.

 

Once its perfect you can tack it then drop the axle out to finish the welds.

 

 

That's my process as well.

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Should be able to easily do it in a day, the axle can be ready to go. Slap it in there adjust it, tack it then take it apart just enough to get in there to weld it.

 

Pretty much just need to pull the u bolts out of the way to finish the welding, then bolt it back down and your done.

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I typically put the axle in with no welds and the u bolts barely tight,then you can move the axle on the perches to make all your adjustments before you weld.

 

Once its perfect you can tack it then drop the axle out to finish the welds.

This is how I do it, as well. But I understand if you have to have it pre-welded and ready to go at tear down. Been there done that. If you are running the factory style rear drive shaft then measure the angle of the yoke on the output. Match that angle on the pinion output of the axle. That is the correct geometry if you are not running a CV/double cardon joint. 

http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.asp

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Has the extra length of the 8.25 at the pinion been taken into account? I believe they are 1" longer than the D35 from axle centreline.

 

I also temp bolt in and adjust the angles then tack and pull to burn in.

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