cruiser54 Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Tap it in carefully at the edge to kinda flip it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 Eliminator Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 Okay I was worried that if I destroyed this plug that it would be a hole in the throttle body! :cry: Because I destroyed the plug..... Okay now I see the bleed screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 You can put the tissues away now. LOL. I should have been more clear. Got it bolted back on yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 Eliminator Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 Yes and I just went ahead and played with it a bit. It was screwed in all the way clockwise. So I turned it back a bit until the rpms seemed okay. Then I test drove it and the idle is defiantly higher where it is supposed to be. Still fluctuating a bit like before though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Doesn't take much. Shouldn't be fluctuating though. I'm thinking something else isn't right. I'm gonna have to bail here in a bit. Was your distributor off at all when you checked it for indexing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 Eliminator Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 Yeah thats cool thanks for staying so I could figure out this screw. Yeah I indexed it awhile ago. I do have to replace my accelerator cable since the bracket broke on the cable. Wouldnt think it would have an effect on the fluctuating but ill replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 I wouldn't think the accelerator cable would be an issue either. I edited my post about indexing. Was it off and needing correcting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 Eliminator Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 Yeah it was off a few degrees. So it helped I'm sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 Eliminator Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 For those following this thread here is the "plug" that covers the air bleed screw. I destroyed it.... But its just a thin circle piece of metal.Here is the location of the air bleed screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Take your oil fill cap off while it is running and see if there is any air being forced out of the crankcase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 Eliminator Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 Nothing noticeable or extreme. Just some air movement due to the rockers moving. I have also noticed that right after a fill up, the truck revs up good after the first start up, and then settles down to a good idle. But after awhile of driving it goes back to fluctuating at idle. And yes I have replaced my gas cap. I don't know if right after filling up would cause anything to run better for some reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 I know the oxygen sensor is new, but is it working? Not just the heater portion but the switching part inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 Eliminator Posted August 13, 2014 Author Share Posted August 13, 2014 I tested for ground, the 12 v heater and the 5 v signal. But i do not have an analog meter to test the switching Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 This is a stone I don't think we should leave unturned at this point. Why not use a digital meter? If it's not switching, you'll see that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 Eliminator Posted August 13, 2014 Author Share Posted August 13, 2014 Well the instructions say use an analog... But I did use a digital anyways just to see the readings and they were switching from 1-4 volts constantly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 You're good there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 Eliminator Posted August 13, 2014 Author Share Posted August 13, 2014 Well after a long drive today, I noticed the how the truck idles can vary. Sometimes at a stop the truck will idle pretty good and other times the rpms will jump around a bit and can feel a rough idle. The rough idle is not terrible like it is going to stale but defiantly noticeable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 Got any mechanic friends with a Snap-On MT2500 scan tool aka "The Brick"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 Eliminator Posted August 13, 2014 Author Share Posted August 13, 2014 Eh yeah high school auto shop haha doesnt that just tell you basically suggestions of what you should do? Like if this is happening do this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 I believe it reads real time sensor operation like my factory scan tool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 Eliminator Posted August 13, 2014 Author Share Posted August 13, 2014 Hm i didnt know the "renix scam tool" did that. Ill get my hands on one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 There was and adapter to use the Chrysler DRB on the Renix Jeeps. I have one. The MT2500 "brick" can scan it also with the correct adapters. No stored codes or anything, but reading stuff in "real time" has worked for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 Eliminator Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 Still havent been able to find a snap-on scanner but I have played with the air bleed screw some more and she seems to be running really good now! No more low idle and the idle is clean without jumping around. :rotfl2: Thanks for all the help! I have done about everything to fix a rough idle and I hope this becomes a good reference for how to fix your idle in the future. It is a very long thread though! :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDude Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Still havent been able to find a snap-on scanner but I have played with the air bleed screw some more and she seems to be running really good now! No more low idle and the idle is clean without jumping around. :rotfl2: Thanks for all the help! I have done about everything to fix a rough idle and I hope this becomes a good reference for how to fix your idle in the future. It is a very long thread though! :thumbsup: Now that you've got yours sorted out, maybe I'll swing by and you can give me hand with mine! lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Still havent been able to find a snap-on scanner but I have played with the air bleed screw some more and she seems to be running really good now! No more low idle and the idle is clean without jumping around. :rotfl2: Thanks for all the help! I have done about everything to fix a rough idle and I hope this becomes a good reference for how to fix your idle in the future. It is a very long thread though! :thumbsup: Now that you've got yours sorted out, maybe I'll swing by and you can give me hand with mine! lol And messing with that screw is certainly not a starting point..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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