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Renix Extended Idle Work Around.


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The Purpose of the extended Idle was in police vehicles when sitting still using extra accessories to prevent too much strain on the motor.  For post 93 jeeps there are a plethora of how to pages on how to add this feature  
 
Why would you want extended Idle or a higher idle?  
well many reasons, winch recovery, lights, On board air, overheating (assume good clutch fan)
 
 After several hours of research all that I've found for doing the extended idle was for post 93 vehicles where a police version was available.  After reading pages and pages of forums discussing the post 93 and people just begging for how to do it on pre 93 vehicles but I was unsuccessful in finding it. 
 
I acquired a 90fsm and searched it my self and found no direct options listed.   
 
But then Blue88Comanche suggested piggybacking the up idle from the ac circuit.   Yeah it's not a true extended idle and the idle isn't increasing to 1k rpm like the extended idle but 300-400 rpm increase is plenty for my purposes.
 
 
Again Back to the wire diagrams I went....    
 
What I found:
There are two inputs to the ecu for the A/C.   One from the physical switch giving power to the a/c circuit then a second that comes off the a/c thermo.  The ECU looks for voltage on these two contacts then increases the Idle expecting the draw from the ACpump.   Connections c2 and d2.

An attempt to further explain the a/c electrical: when a/c is selected power goes to the low pressure switch at the condenser, comes back into cab and is split; one of these splits goes to the ecu at d2. A second split goes to the a/c thermo then runs back to ecu at c2. a third leg supply power at the a/c relay for both the aux fan and the compressor, but this power is controlled through a relay by the output of ecu a12. when c2=d2(12volts) idle increases expecting the load and at the same time a12 powers the relay in engine compartment closed and the compressor is activated with the fan.
 
 
I don't have A/C  So I was not concerned with what I did. And alot of the A/C circuitry is not there just stuff in the factory loom...  If you have a/c and want to retain the use of a/c a few relays maybe needed to break different circuits, and probably cutting and tapping into wire as they enter the ecu rather than tying into them down stream in the harness like i did. Wire diagrams referenced are from the 90 fsm 22,74, 75, 76

I did this to an 89 4.0 although based on the wire diagrams for the 2.5 it should be the same too, but different pins on the ecu, connector behind the fan switch listed below is the same though.
 
 
The HOw:
 
It's pretty simple,  Remove dash bezel,  remove stereo,   loosen the heat controller.  Look for this six pin plug behind the fan controller. Mine had 5 wires on the female side and only 2 or 3 on the male side

12735200163_02d7dbbd3f.jpg
 
Decide your location for your high idle switch and your 12 volt source (I used a tap off cig lighter as i already have a modified circuit controlling that power).  You'll run the switched power to the connector and connect it to pins a and b   a light green wire and a light brown wire.    
I got two jeep connectors from a male donor plug and wired it in the the male side of the factory plug so it's clean:
12735031335_741fbb400a.jpg

(this is a soldered connection heat shrunk with dual wall then I wrapped with electrical tape for stress, anal or overkill you choose)
12735028005_d754ce0f52.jpg

I fed these contacts off a "fan diode assembly" that was a donor from the jy with a/c. There are three connections on these the two outsides are source in and the middle is output. They do not allow back feed and are rated to 1.5 amp (since everything is on relays and just the ecu no worries) anyways on one leg I tied my manual aux fan switch and the other leg to my future elocker switch. When I use these I clean them, and change the gray and orange wire so that the two inputs are the same color, when this is in the factory position the grey wire comes from the thermostat in the radiator, the orange "in" is from the a/c circuit and the orange "out" controls the fan relay.

12735508174_946c946687.jpg

nice and finished and works flawlessly:
12735026285_de3ecd58cf.jpg

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Alright here's a quick half @$$ video.   Was shot with engine warm.  Again this was done on an 89 4.0 that has been very unmolested and no previous wiring issues,  so anyone who attempts to follow what I did its on you to do your own due diligence.  This includes following the wiring schematics yourself  and ensuring your wire loom has not been hacked up already.  You can or could fry ...  if your loom is messed up.

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/skidoo_j/12776209564/

 

 

anyone wants to edit the post to embed the video that's fine

www.flickr.com/photos/skidoo_j/12776209564/

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  • 3 weeks later...

IF the truck has AC could you just toggle/rocker switch the compressor clutch ground?  RPMs up - Fan runs - Just a thought

If I had a/c.... 

 

I'd cut a12 out of the ecu.   install a relay with pins 30 connected on ecu side   and 87 to the truck side. 

would also wire c2 at the ecu probably with a diode contact a to truck  b to ecu  c to switch

then cut wire d2   and attach a diode with contact a to the truck spliced to pin 85 of the relay.  contact c to the diode do your switch and output ( B) to the ecu.   

final wire to pin 86 to ground. 

 

 

 

what this would do would allow the override to lock the ecu in constant high rpm with out runing the a/c pump constantly, but would still allow the a/c pump to cycle with the thermostat as designed.    If really needed i can draw out a schmatic of this idea and others could comment or use it.   Let me know if it's desired. 

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IF the truck has AC could you just toggle/rocker switch the compressor clutch ground? RPMs up - Fan runs - Just a thought

If I had a/c....

 

I'd cut a12 out of the ecu. install a relay with pins 30 connected on ecu side and 87 to the truck side.

would also wire c2 at the ecu probably with a diode contact a to truck b to ecu c to switch

then cut wire d2 and attach a diode with contact a to the truck spliced to pin 85 of the relay. contact c to the diode do your switch and output ( B) to the ecu.

final wire to pin 86 to ground.

 

 

 

what this would do would allow the override to lock the ecu in constant high rpm with out runing the a/c pump constantly, but would still allow the a/c pump to cycle with the thermostat as designed. If really needed i can draw out a schmatic of this idea and others could comment or use it. Let me know if it's desired.

 

That sounds like an awesome idea for us with AC.

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I've thought about up the idle by creating a vacuum leak that I can control from the cab somehow... maybe that's a bad idea but just a though... simple too.

I like that idea.  connect it to an electric valve and into the post filter air.   

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