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its a 4.0 auto, the trans and axles came out of a pioneer, not sure what year. d-30 front, open diff. d-35 rear. open diff.

 

and what about buying Rustys offroad perches?

 

found this, i think easier way for mounting shocks

p3140014.jpg

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eventually yea i would like too. weather or not i go with a truetrack or axle swap id plan on doing a SOA conversion. the whole thing about diff. is because i don't want the open diff. and wanted to know what my options were.  everyone has had awesome input here and gave me some knowledge i def. needed to know

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How much of a lift are you looking to get? The potential replacement axle will contribute to the about of lift you get in a SOA conversion.

 

If you go SOA get some oversized / longer spring perches they should help with axle wrap.

 

As for the axle diffs, some XJs came with the trac-Lok limited slip, it's clutch based VS the True-Trac gear based. Most ford 8.8 came with trac-Lok but they are narrower and would require wheel spacers or aftermarket rims. An added bonus to the 8.8 is they can be had with disc brakes.

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i know a different axle will change the lift height depending on how big it is. so if i got a axle 1 inch bigger then mine i would have to add that inch to the whole lift. is that what you mean.

 

and Rusty's offer a perche that is 6.5 inches long, i think that is suffeciant

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pics are not working for me on thic pc, but it looked like it was part of the factory set up.. again take a look under your truck.

 

i am done for today as 20 min ago the brakes went out on my MJ (the emergency bypass line and manual transmission saved my tail tonight) as i was headed home, and i am waiting on a tow truck...  

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one other thing, to match the rear end height are there any junkyard coil spring i could throw in. or that would raise it at least 4.5 inch. (front doesn't need to be exact same height as the back).  and at this height would i need a drop pitman arm?

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ill check everything out tomorrow in the sun, hard enough to deal with the cold let alone in the dark with a flashlight. 

Easiest to deal with real world info and facts than bouncing around like a bunch of paupers in a pay toilet. We look forward to your findings tomorrow. 

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d-30 front, d35 rear. not sure on ratio right now. will check tomorrow in the daylight. if there is no tag, any other way of telling without removing diff cover.

Since you don't have a locker, jack up one tire, spin it two revolutions and count how many times the drive shaft rotates and then check your results against possible Comanche gear combos.

 

http://classicbroncos.com/gearratio.shtml

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while you are looking at the rear suspension under your truck its a great time to change the diff oil that has most likely never been changed, while the cover is off look on the ring gear for a stamp marking that shows something like 41 10 then divide the small number into the big one and you have your gear ratio.  also while the oil is being drained see if it is sparkling (means lots of ware) and you can also inspect the carrier and gears for wear or damage.

 

the oil change will only take a few min of your time and is worth the effort. a exploding diff is what started my gear change.

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any way of checking the ratio without pulling the cover off, IF there is not tag

Yes, by counting drive shaft revolutions. But:

 

and what year,make and model did the dana 44 come in? cause i converted my truck to 4wd, from a 86 pioneer IIRC

Start at the beginning. Your truck was originally a 2WD. What year, what engine, what transmission?

 

Then you converted it to 4WD. Did you swap both the front and rear axles, or only the front? Are we to understand that you swapped in one or both axles without even knowing what ratio the gears are? What year truck did the "new" axle or axles come out of, what engine did it have, and what transmission?

 

And then we need to know where you want to go with it. If you have to weld new spring perches for the rear axle, the new perches have to be positioned correctly to establish the pinion angle. A few posts above, you asked that that should be. The answer is "It depends." It depends on how much lift you will have, because the amount of lift affects the angle of the drive shaft in the chassis. The spring perch location and pinion angle would be different if you're going to stay at stock height than if you're going to go a SOA conversion.

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The only bolt in front D44 is the one from a Rubicon and only the center section is D44! I need to switch out my current 3.73s for 4.10s since I converted to automatic. I did the XJ axle swap but next time it will be an 8.8 or similar strength diff. The D35 seems to be the reason my Comanche hasn't sold yet.

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