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dual transfercase


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What's the first case you're working with?

A second t-case, adapter plate, and driveshafts are all, I think.

Oh, and a hole in your floor for a second shifter, and a patch in your floor to fit the t-case back further.

 

not always necessary to cut the floor up, and you can lengthen the stock linkage to actuate the front d-shaft in the second case, and use a cable on the dash to actuate the doubler box for the compound low.

Of course, if you're doing something with twin sticks you're gonna end up wth customer linkages.

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and shorten the rear driveshaft and possibly lengthen the front? not sure on the front...but the rear will need shortened

not always, a 231 to a flipped d300 is about the same overall length as the stock 231, so the rear DS stays the same, but the front will have to be lengthened.

Either way, if you're doing all the work for the cases you might as well go fixed yoke, so you're ordering new shafts.

 

anyway, I've been doing a substantial amount of research on this, and I've gotten with a few other jeepers and the local 4x4 shop. We're gonna make our own plates and homebrew some doublers.

 

My basic plan is to use a 231 front, and either another 231 behind that, or a 203 or 205.

I'm not sure that a 231 can stand up to the torque input behind the first one.

Some say yes, some say no, at the very least it will be a 231HD case, and the front 231 will get the upgraded plenetaries from an HD case as well.

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There's a fella that is local to DiryComanche. He's doing a dual t-case setup but ican't for the life of me remember his name. His avatar is a pic of his MJ on a rock, He's from BC.

 

 

 

Regger.

 

 

 

I don't know if he got it done, those Herd of Turtles guys are slow... I think he decided to buy the box4rocks setup.

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That sounds realy cool. If you folks track down who's doing it please let me know. I've got about 6 t/cases laying aound 242's & 231's w/a few fsj cases. might be something I can add to my wish list. take care,

 

mjcanoe

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I am doing a doubler set-up on my rig. Mine is a lil different though. I am going with a np203 and d300. That way I will have the ability to change to a 4to 1 if I find my ratios are not low enough.

 

Depending on what setup you use there are plenty of triple stick setups available now

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Yup its Me...

 

And yeah I'm a turtle, so its going real slow!!!! It doesn't help I'm only getting about 30mins a week to work on it....

 

Progress:

I've basically bolted it all together, have it clocked up 6* for added clearance and have it all mocked up in position under the truck. I then cut a huge hole in the floorboards to make it fit, and have just made cardboard templates to cover the hole. I'm swapping bucket seats in to make sure I have clearance with the new larger tranny hump.. And thats as far as I've gotten... The next plan is to cut the new 16g sheet metal and fill in the hole. Finish the bucket seat swap and put the interior back together. I'll then work on the new crossmember and shifters..

 

here's the link to the thread with some pics...

http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2068&highlight=

 

I have some more recent pictures showing the size of the hole (beyond the rear seat bolt, to just before the seatbelt bolt) as well as my cardboard templates. I'll try and get them uploaded and post them here for you...

 

Specs:

-I'm using the box4rocks kit for dual 231's. At this moment, both cases and internals are stock. Duffy (from Box4rocks) said he has a ton of hardcore XJer's running this setup, and nothing has broke. So I'll give it a shot, and upgrade to a wider chain and a 6 gear planetary in the rear case later on.

-The 2nd t/case adds 8" to the overall length of the setup, including the clocking ring. So yes, new front and rear driveshafts will be required. I also went with a SYE, so that probably saved me a few inches on the rear shaft length. But because your still moving the rear t/case back 8"... Some major cutting needed to be done. I really didn't want to cut the floor, but once I made the first cut it was easier.. So easy in fact, that I clocked the rear t/case up 6* and had to cut more out of the floor. I figured might as well do it now while I still can.

 

Whats to come:

-I don't really have a solid plan for the crossmembers yet. I want to try and use the stock one for the most part, but it will require some fabbing to allow room for the front shaft at full droop. (the clocking will help with this) and either run a second crossmember for the rear case, or fab a support from the back of the stock one. Or just build a complete new crossmember a little further back from stock, in between the two cases.

- For the shifters... I have a few options. I can still use the stock shifter for either the front or rear case, and only have to figure out the second shifter. Now the front case only needs two positions, (Hi and Low), and the rear needs 4 positions. So far I'm thinking of using the stock shifter for the rear case, and then make a shifter for the front case that is a simple pull up/push down rod. Then I don't have to worry about make a lever, or fabbing up a pivot point, just need to make a slide bracket and a nice t-handle at the top. This way I don't have to cut any more monstrous holes in the floor, or try and deal with cables and such, and can maintain a somewhat stock looking interior

 

HTH

Ryan

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