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On 9/1/2018 at 9:07 PM, Longview said:

YJ external slave bellhousing?

Read the thread, super cool jeep.

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I think you mean YJ transmission with an external slave bell housing?

Otherwise it sticks out under the truck like a soar thumb under the frame to all the rocks 

 

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Thats what i was thinking, but your first post listed a "external slave bell housing from a 1990 YJ", which doesnt exsist.

 
 
I think you mean YJ transmission with an external slave bell housing?
Otherwise it sticks out under the truck like a soar thumb under the frame to all the rocks 
 


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4 hours ago, Longview said:

Thats what i was thinking, but your first post listed a "external slave bell housing from a 1990 YJ", which doesnt exsist.

 


Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

 

 

you made me check, even did a search query 

 

all could find was 

Quote

External Slave AX-15 from 1990 YJ to achieve a flatbelly via transfer case clock angle

 

 

so i am confused on what your talking about, i think that explains itself? thanks for reading my build thread though! i guess i should of  put a comma after external slave to make it easier to understand :D

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so i am confused on what your talking about, i think that explains itself? thanks for reading my build thread though! i guess i should of  put a comma after external slave to make it easier to understand
Not important LOL.

But what i was trying to say is there is no such thing as an external slave AX15 from a Yj of any year.

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  • 2 months later...

longview, you must be forgetting the 94-95 yj's that came factory with external ax15's

 

buuuuuut
since my last update a few things have happened.
the last trip to apex, we stopped in the nearest town to get some food. 

while hanging out in the parking lot i noticed my rear diff housing had failed. (the right tube has always been bent since i owned the truck, i guess i gave it the final nudge haha)

so called the tow truck and get er hauled back home.

 

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i ended up picking up another scout II d44 housing for $40, it needed alot of cleaning before i even was able to put the gearset in.

but i shimmed it all into place. and meticulously cleaned the entire housing 

 

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i then painted the axle, once it was stitched together.  everything else had a thorough final clean, then  mostly every part got a fresh coat of paint.

 

tossed the axle back under the truck and back out into the bush

 

there is a few reasons why i stayed with the dana 44 under the truck instead of going to a 1 ton axle

unsprung weight, would to too great and i would have to stiffen the truck (i will down the road  but not now) before i could even think about driving it again

new rims and tires

all new gears locker upgraded shafts ect... for me currently that financially isnt an option

the biggest one though is diff clearance.

 

the way the truck is set up is to achieve maximum diff clearance ,the axles are strong enough built up to withstand the 39.5 tires

snow wheeling is HUGE here, and it is my favorite season. diff clearance is critical. if i went to a 14 bolt and shaved the lower portion of the housing i still would loose clearance and that is not an option.

that being said, i also maintain a large sidewall keeping the 15" rims 

 

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i ended up finding play in my upper ball joint bore of the knuckle (the ball joint did not have play)

so i sourced out a new scout II knuckle for $20, tossed some new ball joints in it and reamed it for a over knuckle 1 ton TRE

 

i had to cut off the old knuckle, since it was no good, i had zero issue chopping it up.

otherwise i would have taken a sawzall and cut the upper and lower balljoints out

with the RCV's in a Scout II spicer 44 (dana 44) they have to be installed assembled at the same time as the knuckle is being installed ( it is a bit of a royal pain)

in order to disassemble the axle, you literally have to cut the knuckles off. it is a one way installation. once they are installed. there is no nice way of removal

 

at this time, i refreshed 1 ton over knuckle steering with all new TRE's and put it all back together

 

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also just some randoms. i refreshed my comanche badges, cleaned, polished, repainted the black and a generous amount of clear coat

and side by side my buddy's 2" lowered cherokee, that walks most of the imports in town

and me testing out the new parts


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  • 3 months later...

trucks still kicking.

i had a great season snow wheeling that came to an end some what short
half way through i rebuilt the entire front end and tossed some mevotech TTX balljoints, (worth the money, still intact unlike a moog or a spicer)

I blew the motor, currently i have it out and waiting the machine shop to tell me what i need to order for parts.

spun the #6 connecting rod bearing  and have a dished lifter (seeing if the cam and crank are even salvagable)

 

over the last week i have removed the engine, stripped it down and sent it out to the machine shop
have trans and tcases out to be torn down and bearings replaced
 have the engine bay stripped and almost ready for paint,

removed dash
stripped the ecu and main body harness down of all the unnecessary extra wires and untangled the rats nest of the stock harness. the whole thing fits in 5/8 loom now
removed the ecu daignostics ports, which ironically never worked from factory. as per the wiring diagram it was miss pinned to C12 instead of the appropriate D12. it never worked from factory (i could have just swapped the pin and made it functional but i had previously decided that it was being removed altogether)


waiting for it to stop snowing and then ill start fitting the power doors


i guess I'm doing a complete tear down and re wire, i have my dash on the bench and currently thinning out the wiring harness on that also.



plan is to have it painted and running for may long wheelin

will post some pics someday, theres just so many to go through and sort chronologically that I tend to put it off tell it gets to overwhelming lol
my other comanche is still alive! just rolled 80K Miles on her too (~129Kish km) 

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ill eventually go through my pictures and back log them onto here but here is some for now!

just need to get the new box bobbed and two dents pulled on the cab and i can start prepping for paint (doing doors fenders grill ect off of the truck bed and cab separate)

i spent a day sanding the engine bay with 180 and primed it, and then some spray bomb of magnetic metallic gray

my wiring harness was wrapped on the bench so once everything is installed ill re wrap them for better suited orientation.

fit the power doors, working on making a harness for those currently

things are coming along nicely, have not heard back about my crank and camshaft yet (fingers crossed they can be saved)

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cleaned up transmission and tcases enough that i can now tear them down once the rebuild kits show up,

found a crack on the 241 (231 housing, 241 internals) so i will have to change the housing
pulled box off to mock new box ,por 15 frame and prep for paint
 

 

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POR 15 showed up today!
i should have enough to do everything that doesnt get the base clear

waiting for my transfercase  and transmission rebuild kits to show up, have the tcase's apart and ready for new parts
tearing the transmission down next. kits should be here in the next few days


i have been soaking the frame trans tunnel in degreaser daily and hosing it down, has really cleaned it up. will work up the courage to go in the tunnel and scrub it all clean.
once it get warmer wi will be mediablasiting the frame before i por15 it

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transfer case rebuild kit finally showed up also,

have the transmission fully reassembled and it shifts nicely through all gears (it had some input shaft play in it, so i figured why not a refresh, brand new bearing has same play hahahahahahha)

here is a picture of an ax15(one of my spares) input to output to 1st reduction to 2nd transfercase reduction to transfercase output

just picked up low mile NP 241 D to use on the truck.
will be taking the 6 planet gear out (i have to anyways, and install my custom 6 planet shaft) and replacing it where the three  planet gear carrier is

more to come, have to figure out what to do for front driveshaft as changing 4wd output style



 

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ended up ditching everything on the bench beside the two plantetary sets,

the new  transfercase output has to be machined to fit my sun gear (pilot stub too large currently)
way more beef compared the to the np241C/231 combo i ran before
this is also a spedoless assembly so if i want to have a spedometer (which i havent had since i have owned it) i will have to use a gauge that utilizes gps for reference speed

the three pics of case are from the internet, just because i didnt take any when taking it apart (2040-parts.com and reid.org)

 then my comparison of 231 front outout to 241D front output 

 


and new vs old shaft and machining required

(shafts are the same spline thickess, the new one is tilting upward making it look larger)

 

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seems like its now a waiting game for the machine shop,

onto cleaning parts haha
 

 

have my intake manifold ready to go, even polished the fuel rail

 

cleaned the heck out of the valve cover and even filed/wetsanded /polished the ridges ontop

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

spring is here, so that means yardwork and landscaping, and lots of it
thats my excuse for being lazy and not progressing much on the truck.

picked up a harness end to end with switches at the wrecker for the power doors and windows!

worked up the courage to start removing all the factory undercoating off the transmission tunnel in preperation for media blasting (less to blast through)
a little more to remove (still need to remove the mj specific transmission mounts off the cab and the old 4wd shifter bracket i don't even use) then i can blast the frame and underside of the cab, once everything is media blasted ill be able to apply the por 15 to everything and have the adhesion required and allow the product to work as well as it can.

plan is to strip the truck down even more (need to remove the two peices off glass before i can use my neighbours frame straightener to true the cab and truck within factory dimensions, )
media blast
por 15
finish body work

paint

start reassembly

here's some $#!&ty pictures of my transmission tunnel, you can see the brackets that still need to be removed prior to media blasting

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

the engine shop finally had enough time to figure out what was salvagable
which is the  block head, (being reworked) and crank shaft

it will be bored .060 over with a 9:1 CR and adjustable timing gear, i want to be able to put some boost to it later on

currently i am working on the floor pans,
i have taken the unibody braces off and am left with not much clean sheet metal to work with,
will post pics of my completed floor pans when they are actually finished


 

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removed all the spot welds from 90% of the cab floor.
slowly working on inner rocker repairs  before making the first pan, i will be removing the rock sliders, welding my repairs in from both sides (backing plate 4x size of repair)x2 on each side
and por 15'ing the inside of it once all boogered together

here's some pics,
passenger pan out, and unibody through the various stages of cleaning and first application of por15 

will do the same to the inner rocker once i have access

i know I'm dragging my feet on this, i blame yard work and lots of it

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  • 2 weeks later...

i have finally recieved my engine from the machine shop!

bored .060 over with a more agressive cam shaft than i have previously had


i quickly went assembling it, i installed the exhaust and intake manifold and found some issues with the header (imcompatibility) which some of you have probably read my tech thread
i have ordered a new manifold so in the further photos that is why the intake and exhaust are back off.

one thing that had been missing for longer than i have owned rye guy's ol' black n tan is the cam bolt spring and tensioner pin (there was indication of the bolt physically contacting timing cover!!!!!!! and possibly why i had a dished lifter/worn lobe) i had to go to pick n pull and get another. a few good smacks with a hammer and chisel and the timing cover casing chipped apart revealing my much needed hardware.

this is where I'm at, sorry about the mess in the pictures LOL

waiting for the exhaust and harmonic balancer before i can finish assembling and timing the engine

quickly scuffed and painted the oil pan, nothing crazy I'm just going to scrape it up again


once I'm done the engine ill be definitley motivated to finish the sheetmetal work and paint

more to come

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