cruiser54 Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 Get that MAP sensor line in tip-top shape first thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted December 1, 2013 Author Share Posted December 1, 2013 Can I find the throttle body side bushing anywhere for the MAP line? Just thought Id change it if I could so its all air tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 Used only. Use a light sealer on it like GasgaCinch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted December 1, 2013 Author Share Posted December 1, 2013 Ill pick some up at oreillys while I'm there. What do you think is creating the smoke from behind the engine? I couldnt see any wires hitting the exhaust pipe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 Could be a leaky valve cover? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 Check the wiring to your injectors. If the injector connectors are crossed it will cause hard or no starting, rough idling, and black sooty smoke from the exhaust. Since all was well before you changed injectors, it logically points to something you did incorrectly in the process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted December 1, 2013 Author Share Posted December 1, 2013 All are correctly connected. And I do believe my valve cover may be the culprit of my oil leak instead of the RMS. But the smoke appeared quickly and usually doesnt come out of the engine compartment. It also didnt really smell like burning oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 All are correctly connected. And I do believe my valve cover may be the culprit of my oil leak instead of the RMS. But the smoke appeared quickly and usually doesnt come out of the engine compartment. It also didnt really smell like burning oil. Here's something to help wit diagnosing oil leaks yourself: I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF. Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, people on Jeep forums who can’t see your Jeep from where they’re at, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it? A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat. Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons. First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill". Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first. Revised 02-26-2013 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted December 1, 2013 Author Share Posted December 1, 2013 Already planned to do that once I could get it to a pressure washer. Havent been able to yet sadly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 Weird smelling smoke from behind engine?Check the wires to/from CPS. I have fried mine before. Smelt like rubber/plastic (duh) :doh: It worked, but the insulation was almost completely gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 Weird smelling smoke from behind engine? Check the wires to/from CPS. I have fried mine before. Smelt like rubber/plastic (duh) :doh: It worked, but the insulation was almost completely gone. Did I send you the CPS wiring photo? If so, post it up please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 And by the way...getting the wire on the bell housing to clip in there is a major PITA...I took it another route after scraping & cutting the crap out of my hand on a chunk of ???. Tight space, fat hand. Any tricks? I do not have any clip on the valve cover or engine side...just the bell housing side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 And by the way...getting the wire on the bell housing to clip in there is a major PITA...I took it another route after scraping & cutting the crap out of my hand on a chunk of ???. Tight space, fat hand. Any tricks? I do not have any clip on the valve cover or engine side...just the bell housing side. I don't wanna hear any whiney stories. I just wanted you to post the pic for me!! LOL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted December 5, 2013 Author Share Posted December 5, 2013 Just changed the map line. It seems to run pretty good now. I havent driven it or left it running for long yet though. I hear kind of a light knock every 3 seconds or so while its running. What could this be? And how can I check that all the pistons are firing, just to make sure? I've got a job interview sunday so quick replies would be very appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted December 5, 2013 Author Share Posted December 5, 2013 New update. Cranked it up, it ran OKAY for a couple seconds. Then it just started running terribly. Could it be pistons not firing because of either spark or fuel injectors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComancheKid45 Posted December 5, 2013 Share Posted December 5, 2013 Did you ever change out the spark plugs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted December 5, 2013 Author Share Posted December 5, 2013 Just tested the resistance of the injectors. 1st: 14.7 OHMs. 2nd: 14.9 OHMs and would jump to 27.1 for a second when I moved the prongs to the opposite injector prong I originally touched. 3rd: 14.8 OHMs. 4th: 14.6 OHMs. 5th: 14.7 OHMs and jumped just like 2 did. 6th: 14.7 OHMs. Does this all sound correct? Could all this just be as simple as the spark plugs are not arcing correctly or something? I'm honestly stumped and a bit scared of having to dump another couple hundred dollars into this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted December 5, 2013 Author Share Posted December 5, 2013 And no, I never did. I changed them a couple months ago but not since the injector change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted December 6, 2013 Author Share Posted December 6, 2013 Should I change the plugs, could that fix it? I don't want to put money in the wrong place right now. Thanks guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Should I change the plugs, could that fix it? I don't want to put money in the wrong place right now. Thanks guys. You could pull them and clean them. Check the gap. Replace? Nah. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bornindesert Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 Outside chance, but try this. I remember my MAP sensor became loose, one of the machine screws left without telling me. Make sure the connector, and the sensor to bracket are all making good connections, tight, etc. Might even try to remove it, clean the bracket, sensor and connector so it's making all the right electrical connections. Re-seating all the injector connectors again, another idea. If that doesn't work, trace the harness back to the firewall connector and remove, clean, reassemble. Just tyring to eliminate something electrical that was disturbed during the fuel rail removal. Hope you get this fixed, engine running smooth this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted December 7, 2013 Author Share Posted December 7, 2013 I'm going to try all of this. Then if that doesn't work I'm going to pick up a set of O-rings and slap my old injectors back in. See if thatbwill make it run right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted December 7, 2013 Author Share Posted December 7, 2013 Tested the Ohms on my old injectors. 16.2-16.5 on all of them. Could the difference in these OHMs and the difference in the new injectors OHMs make it run rough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bornindesert Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 On the injectors, not really sure 2 ohms would make a difference in the old set verses the new set. I just measured an old one and it was 13.5 ohms. Another thing to check, make sure you don't have a bad spark plug, as in cracked ceramic. I had that on an old 85 CJ, rough idle driving me crazy and that's what was causing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted December 7, 2013 Author Share Posted December 7, 2013 The truck is running like its getting to much fuel, Says.my brother in law. Which with that 2 OHMs, maybe it pushing to much fuel through the injectors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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