Knucklehead97 Posted December 23, 2013 Author Share Posted December 23, 2013 Oreillys doesnt keep them in stock. So they were going to charge 9 dollars for shipping. I bought a pack of assorted orings that looked like they would work, but ended up breaking one of the orings pushing the line in the regulator. I'm going to get a pack of 5/16 orings from the other oreillys (the one I went to today didnt have the pack) and hopefully they will work. Do ya'll think I can reuse the spacer between the orings? Also, do I slide the orings and spacer on the fuel line and then push it in the regulator? Or is there some other way to do it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 Go to Napa. You've got the part numbers. Re-use the spacer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted December 23, 2013 Author Share Posted December 23, 2013 The only napa nearby closed, sadly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 The only napa nearby closed, sadly. Bummer. see if your other local store can cross the Napa part numbers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ride172 Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 Sometimes the o rings in the assortment packs aren't made for fuel and will start leaking a couple days later .... Ask me how I know ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted December 24, 2013 Author Share Posted December 24, 2013 I picked up fuel rated orings. They're brown and say on the box that they can be used on quick disconnect fuel lines. The pack came with 2 3/8" orings and 2 5/16" orings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 I picked up fuel rated orings. They're brown and say on the box that they can be used on quick disconnect fuel lines. The pack came with 2 3/8" orings and 2 5/16" orings. Good find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted December 24, 2013 Author Share Posted December 24, 2013 The box says that the 5/16" orings are 1/4" ID and 3/8" OD. And that the 3/8" orings are 5/16" ID and 7/16" OD. Is that what they should be? I thought the 5/16" Orings would be 5/16" ID. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted January 3, 2014 Author Share Posted January 3, 2014 Got it all sealed. Cranked right up and runs great other than the oil leak I already had and a exhaust leak I already had. Havent drove it thanks to the first throttle cable I got breaking on installation. I'm getting a throttle cable ASAP and hopefully driving it :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bornindesert Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 Cool, changing out injectors is a basic chore almost all cold weather 4.0L drivers must dive into at some point. Are you going to attempt the oil leak next? Very common to run down the back of the motor, the culprit being the valve cover. Don't know why, but my Jeep mechanic friends used to say...they all leak back there. I'm having some oil leak issues too but I think it was a bad pan gasket install. Probably will need to drop it again and spring for another gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted January 4, 2014 Author Share Posted January 4, 2014 Well the injector swap turned into wasting about 100$ on injectors that are now just going to sit in my room for no reason. Because they made the engine run rough and I had to just put back in the old ones with new orings. the oil leak, and water/air leak around the windshield are the next thing. And the exhaust leak just cause it will be decently simple to fix I think. I'm almost positive that what I thought was the RMS leaking is actually the valve cover because its wet with oil around the back of it and i think I saw a couple cracks in the seal. I will be following Cruisers instructions to track down the leak as soon as I can. I'm assuming a valve cover gasket change is much much easier to do than a RMS? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 Valve cover is super easy. Step up to the pump and get the Felpro blue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relyt120 Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 Valve cover is super easy. Step up to the pump and get the Felpro blue. :agree: All day everyday Shoot, I broke 3 bolts and the thing still didn't leak with the felpro, and I was able to reuse it after I changed the head gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted January 4, 2014 Author Share Posted January 4, 2014 The gasket thats already on it is a blue rubber one but I think the PO just put it on wrong because he didnt seem to bright. I planned to not use a cork one just because they're terrible in the long run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted January 8, 2014 Author Share Posted January 8, 2014 Went out to put on the throttle cable today after I fixed it. Smelled gas again and guess where it was coming from? The 1st fuel injector. I'm so mad right now I can't believe that I'm back to square one. I just wish a part could work for me. We had a cold front this weekend and went down to about 9 degrees, so I guess that screwed me over. I'm going to take a set of orings off the worthless injectors ai bought and try putting them on it. I just hope this doesn't mess up the 10$ I spent on the quick disconnect orings. I'm starting to think that the injector itself is leaking, but I can't tell. Its not leaking easily enough to hear, but you can smell and see it running down the injector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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