92tanMJ Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 Hey guys so I have got a question..the other day I was driving my Heep and it was having issues getting fuel, well it died and my gas gauge went to E and the light came on (I had a full tank, just filled up the night before). Well it died and I got it to start back up and the gauge went to Full but the light stayed on. Now a full tank is at the 3/4 of a tank mark and "full" floats between the actually full mark and 3/4 a tank well I guess..any ideas? I'm not really worried about it because it hasnt done it since then..its just annoying knowing my gauge is off. And i guess I should mention both the tank and pump are less than a year old. I would just hate to have it died somewhere between college and home (~250 miles). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 Take off your driver's side tail/brake lamp housings and refresh that ground wire. Also, while you're at it, refresh the instrument panel ground as per cruiser's mostly renix tips. Sounds like that is your issue to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula69 Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 In answer to your question, the sending units are no longer available for purchase new. However, I agree with the checking of the grounds before you try to get a used one. I have rebuilt sending units, and would be glad to tell you how to rebuild your for free, (or I could rebuild yours for the price of the parts). If that's just not your bag, I have two extras and might be convinced to part with one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted October 19, 2013 Author Share Posted October 19, 2013 Take off your driver's side tail/brake lamp housings and refresh that ground wire. Also, while you're at it, refresh the instrument panel ground as per cruiser's mostly renix tips. Sounds like that is your issue to me. I already have done that. I still need to check the one buy the pump still In answer to your question, the sending units are no longer available for purchase new. However, I agree with the checking of the grounds before you try to get a used one. I have rebuilt sending units, and would be glad to tell you how to rebuild your for free, (or I could rebuild yours for the price of the parts). If that's just not your bag, I have two extras and might be convinced to part with one. I guess, I'll google it and fgure out how to rebuild them if it comes to that. Unless you have a link or two you have bookmarked and would like to share?? :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula69 Posted October 19, 2013 Share Posted October 19, 2013 Ask and ye shall receive! http://comancheclub.com/topic/33662-refurbishing-the-fuel-sender/?hl=fuel+sender Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheReverendBill Posted October 19, 2013 Share Posted October 19, 2013 I actually found that the whole assembly unit is available at advance auto. the counter guy cross referenced the discontinued unit and had a new unit in stock with pump and strainer for just over 120 bucks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted October 19, 2013 Share Posted October 19, 2013 Lucky... :fs1: lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted October 19, 2013 Share Posted October 19, 2013 I actually found that the whole assembly unit is available at advance auto. the counter guy cross referenced the discontinued unit and had a new unit in stock with pump and strainer for just over 120 bucks Most likely they will give you a Cherokee one as their computers say they interchange. It will be mirror image from what you need, and will only fit in a 84-86 or aftermarket non fuel injection tank as the pan/baffles in the FI tanks will interfere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agamble Posted October 20, 2013 Share Posted October 20, 2013 I just sent my sending unit to be rebuilt by a specialist in New York State. tristarrradiator.com is the company website. I called and they quoted $75-175 depending on the work needed. Only kicker is turn around time is 2-3 weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted November 21, 2013 Author Share Posted November 21, 2013 I have a question/issue I could some help on. It may or may not be related. But I had this EXACT same problem (see above) but it was the fuel gauge in stead of the volts gauge (and still full tank is only 3/4th on the gauge). So I got into the MJ today, started it up, and the RMPs jumped to about 2K for a bit. (that's not the first time it's done that after sitting for a few weeks) So I started driving and it worked fine. But then when I started to give it gas before even letting the clutch out the RMPs would drop and it would start to die. (So giving it a little extra more throttle than normal "solved" that problem for the time being as I had to just to go the store and I would deal with it later.) Once I started to drive I noticed my Volts dropped to 9 (or whatever that lower mark is) then it raised back up after about 30 seconds. But once I got the stop light my volts and RPMs both started to drop to point where it wanted to die. So I gave it a bit of throttle and the volts went back up. But I had to do that all the way to walmart and when I finally got there. I turned it off and drove it back without any issues. Let me know if any of that doesnt make sense. lol Fuel Sender Unit Bad? Bad ECU? Or bad harness, or moisture, or a short? Any ideas? I personally think it might be the TPS or maybe the MAP? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 Probably your truck didn't want to go to the Walmart parking lot. Seriously, make sure your battery mains cables are clean and tight, clean up your grounds as per Cruiser's posts, and how long has it been since you changed the fuel filter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted December 6, 2013 Author Share Posted December 6, 2013 Probably your truck didn't want to go to the Walmart parking lot. Seriously, make sure your battery mains cables are clean and tight, clean up your grounds as per Cruiser's posts, and how long has it been since you changed the fuel filter? Sorry I didn't see you post Hornbord. I already clean the grounds when my headlights were acting up. Buying new battery mains are on my 'to get/Christmas list'. I have a receipt that PO put in a new fuel pump and tank..although as I learned above you can't buy new pumps anymore so I don't know how true that is or what pump is in my tank now.. I just pulled my codes and I got 12, 15, 21, 24, & 55 12- Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 Key-on cycles. ---normal 55-Completion of fault code display on Check Engine lamp. ---normal 15- No vehicle speed sensor signal detected during road load conditions. --- unrelated, my speedo randomly starts and stops working after it sits for a while 21- Bad 02 sensor --- unrelated, I actually just ordered a new one But the one that counts: 24-Throttle position sensor input above or below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor. Think that is all my problem is? I just need a new TPS? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 For the 24 TPS fault code, check the 5V reference voltage first by unplugging the 3-pin connector and checking across the two outer pins with your meter (one is the 5V ref. signal; the other ground IIRC). Another check: TESTING PROCEDURE 1991 – 2001 4.0L H.O. engines1. Near the rear of intake manifold, disconnect sensor pigtail harness connector from main wiring harness.2. Place an ohmmeter across terminals B and C (SEE Image). Ohmmeter should be set to 1K-to-1OK scale for this test.3. The meter reading should be open (infinite resistance). Replace sensor if a low resistance is indicated. On the Walmart comment, last week the wife was inside grocery shopping at our local store. When she came out, she saw that some azzhat had busted out the right rear door glass with a freaking hammer. The crackhead also nailed several other vehicles too. I called the cops later and naturally no one saw anything. My liability insurance is $500 deductible, so I didn't even report it. I found a new glass at a nearby yard and picked it up this afternoon for $50. Now I have to figure out how a JKU rear door panel comes off.................... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 You can still get a fuel pump. It's the fuel gauge sending unit you can't get any more. The filter is in the fuel line, and not in the tank, so it may not have been replaced. Although probably it was. Check to see if it looks about the same age as the tank. If it's even a little questionable that it's not as new as the tank, change it. It's on the driver's side frame rail right ahead of the tank. Follow the fuel lines to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted December 6, 2013 Author Share Posted December 6, 2013 You can still get a fuel pump. It's the fuel gauge sending unit you can't get any more. The filter is in the fuel line, and not in the tank, so it may not have been replaced. Although probably it was. Check to see if it looks about the same age as the tank. If it's even a little questionable that it's not as new as the tank, change it. It's on the driver's side frame rail right ahead of the tank. Follow the fuel lines to it. Ah gotcha thanks for clearing that up, Ill check Saturday if I remember...Its raining cats and dogs right now and isnt supposed to stop till late Friday lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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