Jump to content

Driveway Ornament To Daily Driver: 7 Years!


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 261
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Man we should get you a relatively low miles block from the JY and swap over all your accessories, they are only $65 with the core charge here in lavergne.

 

leave no MJ behind  :wrench:

 

Appreciate the offer. I may just take you up on that at some point :wrench:

 

At this point the thing to do is to just put it back together and see what happens. I think it'll pour oil out of the back of the block, but it may run just fine. Time will tell.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Did you happen to get a picture of the block around the Seal.  I am curious to see how bad the damage is, and if there may be a way to repair it.  Damage doesn't always warrant replacement.  It just depends on where the damage is, and if it will effect anything.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

0IsquCSl.jpg

 

This is the damaged area. Believe me when I say I really don't want to put an engine in it - and the more I look at it the more I think it may be ok. The only way to know for sure will be to put it back together and see how it does, which I want to do this weekend.

 

Ns5cSYtl.jpg

 

Here is the #7 main bearing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If all you are missing is that little corner at the very outer edge of the block where the crank is sitting then you should be fine.  It's not in a location to effect the performance of the seal at all. 

If it were me, I would just clean it up and make sure no metal bits got into bad places and bolt the bearing cap back on and run it.  I might toss in some black stuff RTV in the area where that gasket seal is for the cap to make sure oil won't seep out, but it shouldn't affect the running ability of the engine at all.   If it bothers you that much, run it and buy a junkyard motor to rebuild on the side.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If all you are missing is that little corner at the very outer edge of the block where the crank is sitting then you should be fine.  It's not in a location to effect the performance of the seal at all. 

 

If it were me, I would just clean it up and make sure no metal bits got into bad places and bolt the bearing cap back on and run it.  I might toss in some black stuff RTV in the area where that gasket seal is for the cap to make sure oil won't seep out, but it shouldn't affect the running ability of the engine at all.   If it bothers you that much, run it and buy a junkyard motor to rebuild on the side.

I'm with you there - I'm thinking it should be fine since everything that's missing is "behind" the RMS. My wallet and my schedule both hope so too. My original plan was to take it off the road at 200,000 miles (at the rate I'm driving it, it will be many years) and build the original engine into a 4.6 stroker. That may or may not still happen. If the block does turn out to be screwed, I'll probably try to find a low miles engine to run for a while then rebuild.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why not piece together said 4.6 while you drive this one?  Set aside some cash and keep an eye out on craigslist for a good used motor.  I've missed my change at a couple of complete running 4.0L's around my area for $170 and $250 respectively.  Kinda wish I would have grabbed one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why not piece together said 4.6 while you drive this one?  Set aside some cash and keep an eye out on craigslist for a good used motor.  I've missed my change at a couple of complete running 4.0L's around my area for $170 and $250 respectively.  Kinda wish I would have grabbed one.

Nothing's set in stone. I may very well do that. I was kind of wanting the stroker to be built from the original engine (for the sake of "originality" if that makes any sense) but building a used motor on the side is a perfectly valid option too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

:banana:  It ran last night! :banana:

 

More details later. I pulled a very long night last night and got it back together enough to run. I could only run it for a short period at a time because the serpentine belt was off, but it ran! The only oil leak was at the very rear corner of the oil pan - that bolt was looser than the others. I have not run it since but we could very well be driving it next weekend. The RMS area and the chip in the block was completely dry after about a minute in a half total of running.

 

Here's a list of parts that have been installed since it's been parked:

 

28mm front sway bar with new endlinks and bushings

Passenger side window regulator

Passenger side door glass (don't ask)

Rear main seal

Front main seal and timing cover gasket

Timing set

Valve cover gasket

Oil pan and gasket

Oil pump (standard volume)

Water pump

Thermostat and gasket

All coolant hoses

Heater control valve eliminated

All door weatherstripping

XJ style side mirrors with remote manual control

Laredo interior door panels

..and I'm probably forgetting some.

 

Needless to say I have a lot of updating to do. The semester is coming to an end and finals are 2 weeks from now so there will probably not be any serious updates until the second week of May. But it's alive again!

 

:banana:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So... I drove it today. But not all is perfect.

 

It sounds much better than it did before the work (I'm guessing getting rid of a 156,000 mile old timing chain had something to do with this) and seems to have more power than I ever remember it having, but it's suffering from a driveline vibration at all speeds and what sounds like a very loud road noise. I believe one or more of the new U-joints I put in are faulty, improperly installed, or both. I remember having some real trouble getting the new U-joints to seat properly, so the driveshaft's probably going to a driveline shop as soon as the semester is over. Otherwise, it seems to be doing okay.

 

Oh, and the damn A/C quit working again, too. :wall:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's awesome to hear man ! Especially the "it has more power part " . And it's always the little things that go a long way like the U joints , Also How much of a difference in handling did the sway bar make ?

 

Definitely enough to notice. It definitely felt more planted in the turns and body roll is reduced quite a bit.

 

Took it around the block again today and now there's a green puddle on the passenger side floorboard. :doh: I'll have a damn near new truck by summer at this rate...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

:banana: :banana: IT LIVES! :banana: :banana:

 

Jray7hCl.jpg

 

After 6 months, lots of frustration, a chip knocked off the block, more money than I'd rather say, and the occasional thought of selling it, I finally have a Jeep that doesn't mark its territory. Obviously there's going to be a lot of stuff not covered in the build thread - I didn't take many pics of the RMS replacement process or anything else, so I don't really have enough material to make one of my traditional pic-heavy updates. I'm not sure if I'll make a video update or just write a big, boring wall of text. The good news? It runs and drives better than ever, with a refreshed cooling system, new timing chain, replacement of all seals and gaskets, and door mirrors I can actually see out of! The bad news? I can't justify buying cheap oil anymore, since it's not going to leak it all out in a week like it used to. :fs1:

 

I plan on making it out to the junkyard sometime this week or next to get a 96+ valve cover, a pair of door checks, and some other odds and ends. I'll probably even drive the truck just to say I can, even though the A/C currently are broke.

 

The rear diff has been leaking for an unknown amount of time. Since I don't want my D35 to die even sooner than it sounds like it's going to, I fixed it.

 

hgFSwCcl.jpg

There is nothing in the world that I hate more than RTV sealant. The leak was also smelling up my garage.

 

Z5flYjBl.jpg

The spare got in my way, so I took it down. I seriously don't care if you know my plate number.

 

Instead of using RTV sealant I used this gasket. "better" options are available but I'm not putting a $25 gasket on a dying axle.

 

mxrhLnYl.jpg

Tire. Wheel. Shiny diff cover. Springs. More wheels. Box.

 

Picked up this tire and wheel at the JY a while ago. The tire is far from perfect but it holds air and will get me home if I need it. It's also the same size as my others!

 

I also put on the "wing" style door mirrors while the truck was non-running. I have to fill in the holes from the old mirrors now but the visibility, ability to adjust them from the inside, and better looks are well worth it.

1s36HJMl.jpg

I deserve anything you can say to me for letting the garage get so dirty.

 

fpgl5Ghl.jpg

This will all get cleaned out in a couple of days, I promise

 

Here's the short list of stuff I need to do to give it a 100% clean bill of health:

 

- Fill holes in door from old-style mirrors

- Fix A/C (or make it someone else's problem)

- Replace heater core (will be doing any other interior business at this time. The heater core has been going bad for a long time so this is not news)

 

Total Expenditures since January 2015: $404.13

Junkyard Parts:
Door panels: 1991 Jeep Cherokee Laredo
Front bumper guards: 1992 Jeep Cherokee Sport
Windshield wiper motor: 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport
Tailgate handle: 1989 Jeep Comanche

Mud flaps: 1987 Jeep Comanche

Interior Quarter Panels: 1989 Jeep Comanche

Courtesy Lights: 1994 Jeep Cherokee Country

Front Sway Bar: Addco unit found in junkyard

 

Maintenance Status:
Oil changed 6qt generic 10W-30, 155,735

Brake pads, rotors, fluid and calipers replaced at 152,455

Brake shoes, drums, hardware and wheel cylinders replaced at 152,295

Starter replaced at 154,269

All gaskets replaced at 155,735

 

Odometer: 155,765

 

Tips:

- The oil filter adapter O-ring kit sold in the parts stores is NOT correct for any vehicle made before July 16, 1992. This one fits 1987-July 15, 1992.

- Fel-Pro sells a double lipped version of the 4.0 rear main seal. Use it.

 

Back on the road, folks. . :MJ 1: .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

- The oil filter adapter O-ring kit sold in the parts stores is NOT correct for any vehicle made before July 16, 1992.

The motormite universal o-ring kit works okay and is only a few dollars. ALso, there is a member here that sells a low priced "OFA seal kit" I have not installed it yet, but they look to be just fine. Waiting to change the seals for when I swap in some new motor mounts. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After driving about 30 miles yesterday, I open the hood this morning to an engine absolutely COATED in oil from valve cover to oil pan (currently suspecting a valve cover gasket - if I take this valve cover off one more time it's getting replaced.) In addition there's a few drops of oil coming from the front of the oil pan gasket. Cue about 10 years worth of profanity in 30 seconds.

 

:mad: :mad:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've taken my valve cover off at least 5 times in the last year. Ever since I installed the more expensive fel pro gasket with the metal core and replaced all of my valve cover bolts with new ones My valve cover gasket leaks have stopped.  Now I only get a tiny occasional drip from the rear of my engine, where before I got a decent sized spot.  You will get it sorted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


×
×
  • Create New...