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4X4 Conversion Parts List


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So yes the conversion is coming soon, but I need to make sure that I can get everything for the swap, here is what I know what I need:

 

- D30 Front Axle

- Ax5 or Ax4 with 4x4

- Np232 or 231 Transfer case

- Shortened Rear drive shaft

- Front drive shaft

- Tranny cross member

- Electronic speedo cable from a Cherokee

- Cherokee Clutch Lines 

 

don't quite know if I missing anything but that is what I think that I need. 

 

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You can't use an electronic speedo without doing a full 91+ wiring/control system conversion.  You may simply need a longer cable to rear back to the T-case.

 

You're going to need the 4wd lever, brackets, and shift linkages for the trans/t-case combo.  Also, I think you mean 242, not 232.

 

You won't need a new crossmember, that's only a concern with the AX-15.  AX-4/5, BA 10/5, and AW4 all use the same crossmember, and there's no difference in 2wd and 4wd ones.

 

Your current clutch lines will work, since you're already an external slave.  You'll just retain your current bellhousing if you're using a newer trans.

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I still don't know where you're getting NP 232 from, but it was never an XJ/MJ case.  The AX-5 you're getting from him has a 231.  I should know, I put it in the truck he took it out of.

 

I don't remember which sender it has in it though.  The first electric ones simply screwed onto the sender in the case like the cables did.  I don't know when they switched to the single piece though, and unfortunately I can't recall which one's on there.  I know it's from a 93.

 

The NP 207 used its own sender that isn't compatible with the 231, but I don't know about the 2wd AX-4/5.  I know the newer ones are the same as the 231, but again, not sure.  The sender that's in your 2wd trans may drop into that 231.

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Thats what Brett was saying was mounted to the Ax5, I'm not saying your wrong, Its just what he told me was attached to it. Think It could be from his other parts in the barn?

 

About that electronic speedo, I picked up a np231J off a 96 XJ. It looks like I can unscrew the sensor from it, so would I be able to modify it to use a speedo cable?

You might be able to, I'm not quite for sure.

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I'm betting it was simply a typo on his part.

 

And yes, if you can unscrew the sender from the T-case, you'll be able to just screw a cable onto it.  That's how I was able to run a 207 in a 91 for a few months.

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Might be, Ill ask him sometime soon

Correy is correct (as he should be) and it is a 231. Must have had fat fingers mentioning a 232! :dunno: I will be retrieving a few of my stored parts this week and will take a closer look at the sender on the 231. I suspect I have a front drive shaft for you too!

 

You will probably want to buy a new clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing (release bearing), pilot bearing, rear main seal (because it is once piece in the 2.5), and a master/hoses/slave. It has always been my philosophy to replace all used clutch components if they are accessible.

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Yes, you can keep your current clutch. Most people think you should replace it as a matter of fact when the transmission is out because it happens to be right there, and dropping the transmission just to do a clutch at some point in the future is a lot of work. Since your clutch is relatively new, I would keep it. Actually, do take it out and inspect the flywheel and clutch plates. If there is blue, the clutch plate should be replaced and the flywheel resurfaced regardless.

 

You will want to retain your mechanical speedometer. The sender out of your 2wd transmission will fit in the transfer case. MAKE SURE YOU NOTE THE ORIENTATION SO THE GEAR WILL MESH CORRECTLY WITH THE OUTPUT SHAFT! You will need a longer speedometer cable that will hook up to your gauge cluster. This will have to come off a 84-87 4wd Cherokee or Comanche. 88-90 are also mechanical, and will fit your speedometer, but will not lock to it, meaning it can slide out if you hit the brakes too hard or snag it on something off road.

 

Your current rear driveshaft will need to be shortened. Wait until you have the transfer case (and rear axle if you're replacing it as well) in to measure the needed length, then take it to a reputable drivetrain shop to have it done. They should be able to check it for true, shorten it and balance it for probably ~$100. Some charge more, some charge less.

 

Front driveshaft can come from a 4 cylinder stick shift 4wd Cherokee. Try to get one from 87 or newer (right through 2001) so it will have a simple double cardan joint on top and not the funky CV joint. One from an automatic transmission or 6 cylinder will be the wrong length.

 

As noted, you will need the shifter, rods and other linkage parts. This might include the bracket bolted to the firewall. The bolts are accessible inside the cab underneath the carpet. I don't know if the 4 cylinder uses this or not as my 4 cylinder uses a YJ shifter. Don't go the route the PO of my truck used as the shifter will be to far forward to fit the center console and you will have to hack up the transmission tunnel badly to make it fit. If you do need that bracket, be aware most are badly rusted, so try to look for a newer Cherokee to get it off. Electrolysis rust removal and a coat of paint on it will help keep it from rusting again/more under your truck.

 

If you are keeping your current rear axle, and you have a 4 speed transmission, you will need a 3.55 ratio front axle. This is the most common ratio out there. These will be in early 4 cylinder/4 speed or any 4.0/automatic Cherokees. Try to get one from a 91 through 99 Comanche or Cherokee, so you will not have the vacuum disconnect and it will be high pinion. Don't get one from a TJ Wrangler or ZJ Grand Cherokee as they are low pinion. Get shafts out of a 95(?) or newer to get the stronger u joints. Most pull-it-yourself type salvage yards will allow you to swap parts in the yard before paying for it. Otherwise get the whole thing from a 95 through 99 Cherokee.

 

If you have a 5 speed your current rear axle should have 4.10 gears and you will need a 4.10 front axle to match it. These were behind 4 cylinder/5 speed only and are much harder to find.

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  • 7 years later...

Hi,

 

I'm refreshing some old topic becuse is better not to make similar new one.

At the moment I'm collecting parts for conversion of this one : 

 

 

After some research i noticed some difficulties with 4 liters engines parts here in Poland. 

Here  is more 2,1 diesel , 2,5 diesel and 2,5 gasoline motors and rest of stuff.

 

On some website i found info :

Manual Transmissions

AX-4 4 speed manual - manufactured by Aisin-Warner - used '86-'92 with 2.5L I-4 only.
AX-5 5 speed manual - manufactured by Aisin-Warner - used '86-'92 with 2.5L I-4, 2.8L V6 ('86 only), 2.1L I-4 Turbo Diesel and 2.8L Turbo Diesel(export model).
BA-10/5 5 speed manual - manufactured by Peugeot - used '87- Mid '89 with 4.0L I-6.
AX-15 5 speed manual - manufactured by Aisin-Warner - used Late '89-'92 with 4.0L I-6. (Swappable into the 2.5L I-4 but the bellhousing will not fit the AX-5. There is a Dodge Dakota 2.5L I-4 bellhousing that will fit the AX-15)

 

The question is:  can all AX-5 even from diesel engine will fit to 4 liters engine ?

 

Another one : transfer case with those AX-5 are marked as 231 with letter J ( 21  teeth, mainly connected with diesels and 2,5 gasoline but with AX-15), Is it some standard or special version of np231 mentioned everywhere here ?

 

 

Is this a correct mounting for manual cable  , please see attached file?

unnamed (2).jpg

obraz_2021-05-19_094602.png

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I’m not sure what engine you currently have but the 4.0 and 2.5 share the same engine to transmission bolt pattern. The ax5 and the ba10/5 are the least desirable options but I understand sometimes you have to just use what you can get. Are you trying to do a 4wd conversion? 

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1 hour ago, EagleEar said:
ERB ENGINE - 4.0L I6 MPI GAS 

 Yes I'm trying to do conversion., ax=5 is not good choice why ?

 

What about diesel ax-5 fitment to 4 liter engine? 

 

What do you suggest AX-15 ? how to switch speed0  ?

 


AX15 is the much stronger option. The speedometer (vss) will be relocated to the transfer case once converted. 
 

This site has some good information about transmission compatibility and power ratings for our Jeeps: https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/manual/

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Your ideal transmission would be a 94+ ax15 from an XJ. The bellhousing has an external clutch slave cylinder and the transmission will have a 3/4” input shaft and 23 spline output shaft. Then add a matching np231. You will need the appropriate speedometer gear for your tire size and gears

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Thanks for help and advises. 

 

Could you write more about this :Then add a matching np231.

 

Standard np 231 would ok ? what about this np231 J ?

 

I found one  from CHEROKEE XJ 1992-01 2.5TD but np231 with letter "J" - 23 spline, will it fit ?

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On 5/19/2021 at 9:49 AM, EagleEar said:

Thanks for help and advises. 

 

Could you write more about this :Then add a matching np231.

 

Standard np 231 would ok ? what about this np231 J ?

 

I found one  from CHEROKEE XJ 1992-01 2.5TD but np231 with letter "J" - 23 spline, will it fit ?

The np231j is your typical jeep transfer case. The only major differences is the input gear. Early model np231s and ones found behind 2.5l engines had 21 splines. Most ax15 transmissions had 23 splines

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41 minutes ago, ghetdjc320 said:

had 21 splines. Most ax15 transmissions had 23 splines

 

There's a lot more variation than that - refer to the Novak page on the topic for more info:

https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np-nvg-input-gears/

 

Novak also sells input gears if you really can't find a matching tcase.

You'll definitely be safe if you buy a mated transmission and tcase together, though.

 

Also just to expand on the "J" suffix: that stands for Jeep.  There's also "D" - Dodge, "C" - Chevy, "HD" - Heavy Duty (Jeep), and "DHD" - Heavy Duty (Dodge)

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11 minutes ago, scaleless said:

 

There's a lot more variation than that - refer to the Novak page on the topic for more info:

https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np-nvg-input-gears/

 

Novak also sells input gears if you really can't find a matching tcase.

You'll definitely be safe if you buy a mated transmission and tcase together, though.

 

Also just to expand on the "J" suffix: that stands for Jeep.  There's also "D" - Dodge, "C" - Chevy, "HD" - Heavy Duty (Jeep), and "DHD" - Heavy Duty (Dodge)


 

Correct, but being that the OP is in Poland and things tend to get more complex on international models, I suggest simply getting an ax15 from an XJ with “matching” np231. There’s long, short and medium input gears along with various spline options. But no need to complicate things

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I found front axle, please advise if its Dana 30 .

There is nothing for front with gearing  4.10 more common are 3.73 and 3.55.

According to post above I should have 4.10 on the rear , will it works ?

 

obraz_2021-05-21_150133.png

 

 

Or something like that JEEP XJ 97-01 4.0  gearing 3.55

 

 

JEEP-XJ-97-01-4-0-MOST-PRZEDNI-DYFER-3-55-PRZEGUBY.jpg

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