Pete M Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 have you checked for spark after that mile and a half? also: http://www.harborfreight.com/inline-ignition-spark-checker-69014.html less chance of sparkin' yourself. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted April 14, 2013 Author Share Posted April 14, 2013 have you checked for spark after that mile and a half? also: http://www.harborfreight.com/inline-ignition-spark-checker-69014.html less chance of sparkin' yourself. :D no i havent, but i do know it is getting spark, just not enough of it. Like i said a few post earlier, its painfully obvious that it wants to start, but just won't. I went ahead and ordered a new TPS, they don't carry mopar brand, its another borg-warner part, 55 bucks. I havent acutally bought it yet, i just want to have it ready just in case. I will be testing the TPS as soon as i post this. . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted April 14, 2013 Author Share Posted April 14, 2013 Tested and adjusted the TPS, seems to be functioning properly. Reference voltage was 4.90 Output before adjustment was .003 or something like that adjusted to .80, thats as close as i could get to .82 reliably After adjustment i tried to start the truck, keep in mind this is about 5hrs since the last time it started and drove. First 2 attempts it didnt even try, cranked for a solid 5 seconds. 3 attempt started to try, 4 attempt obviously trying to start but not even close to running. So now i got nothin, totally out of ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted April 14, 2013 Author Share Posted April 14, 2013 Update: tested the CPS, mulitmeter set on ACV 200, its the symbol with the squiggly line over the V When cranking started it climbed .1 .2 .3 stopped at .3 and did not go any higher. It was also not a straight jump to .3 it took a rotation or two. I understand that this probably doesnt help the situation, but it couldnt be the whole problem, could it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 it kinda sounds like the coil is bad. meaning as it heats up it eventually fails putting out a good spark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche1 Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 It can mine. reads .26 and when hot fails. Should get .5 if i try to start it it floods and only way to restart is to Wait ten mins and mash the gas pedal. Still getting spark? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mythreesons Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 Well, it seems like there is an issue with your CPS. Take a look in the DIY section for Cruiser's tips on the CPS. Perhaps just getting it a little closer to the flywheel will help, but from your measurements, yours is at the bottom (or below) of acceptable. How good are your multi-angle-arm bending skills? :D Initially, after first thoughts I would lean towards electical problem of some sort being the cause. I almost would have said heat-soak issue with the coil, but after re-reading your efforts, I probably would put that 2nd on the list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macs97xj Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 My old XJ did the same damn frustrating thing and it was like ^^ said the CPS, 2 bolts behind valve cover pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted April 14, 2013 Author Share Posted April 14, 2013 Yes i am WELL aware of what a major PITA the CPS can be and yes i have read Cruiser's writeup, thats how i knew how to test it in the first place. :D PETE, Heat soak effecting the coil has been on my mind since the start, but that theory fell through when the truck won't start and its ice. cold. And i have tested the coil and it checked out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 after all the other dead ends you've found, I'd still swap it out for another just to see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted April 14, 2013 Author Share Posted April 14, 2013 I will consider that Pete, its just 55 is a lot to pay just for a shot in the dark. Update: CPS pulled, I have two sensors in my possession. One is the brand new one that i just took off and the old, but still new one that i replaced for good measure and there is bare wire exposed where it goes into the sensor. Figured i was doing myself a favor. :doh: Is there anyway to test a CPS off of the vehicle? and i can't find a mopar replacement, anywhere. Got any suggestions? or Links? Can a misreading CPS be corrected through Cruiser's modification? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche1 Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 I did cruisers trick of moving closer but didnt help. Only way to test with it out is ohms but its unreliable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted April 14, 2013 Author Share Posted April 14, 2013 Well i already know, my "new" sensor is no good, so if i test it for ohms and compare it to my old one maybe i can learn something. What ohms should i be getting? Update: Old sensor read 240 ohm new sensor read 220 ohm Figured i would test them for the helluva it. Does this mean anything? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche1 Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 Per chilton 200 + or- 75 ohms on hot engine doesn't say for cold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted April 14, 2013 Author Share Posted April 14, 2013 Whats the plan of action if i can't find a Mopar or OEM crank sensor? Just keep exhanging at the parts store until i get a good one? I think what i am gonna do is go and exhange my current CPS for another "new" one and grab a new coil while i'm at it and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 I wasn't necessarily talking about a new coil. ANY appropriate coil will do since if it i the coil, you'll notice a difference. Come to think of it, same goes with the CPS. got any pull-a-part style junkyards near you? any fellow renix owners that might loan you their parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted April 14, 2013 Author Share Posted April 14, 2013 to late, new coil and cps are already bought, will be installing as soon as i do cruisers cps mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted April 14, 2013 Author Share Posted April 14, 2013 Well i've really done it this time. :oops: After installing the new cps and coil i tried starting it, nothing. Didnt even try, crank crank crank crank crank crank crank, nada. Just to be 100% sure fuel was indeed at the rail i turned the key let it prime, went under the hood and pressed the scrader valve. . . . .. . . . . . nothing, nothing but pressurized gas. I'm thinkin, "ooooh boy, i really gonna get it now". So i decide to further invesitgate by pulling the rear line off of the fuel filter. Turn the key, prime. . . . . . .. . .. . no fuel comes out the line Just. Air. I hang my head in shame go get my gas can and put all 5 gallons into the tank, turn the key 2 times fuel starts pouring out the line. Reconnect the line turn the key another dozen times, each time letting the air out at the scrader valve until fuel is squirting out. Turn the truck over aaaaand VERROOOOOMM. While i havent gotten to drive it to confirm this was the issue, i am pretty certain it is. The fuel pump was completely out of the fuel before i put gas in it, it was very loud compared to now. Now its as quite as a mouse. I will let you know a little later tonight if the problem is fixed. Now everybody, all at once :fs2: :soap box: :mad: :hateputers: :fool: :thwak: :rant: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 :doh: It's okay man, $#!& happens. At least now you have a plethora of extra parts in the event those do actually crap out. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted April 15, 2013 Author Share Posted April 15, 2013 Yup, finished buttoning up a brake line issue and took the truck for a ride in town to fill the tank. Ran B.E.Autiful FYI when they say its a 15 gallon tank, thats not exactly true. Before i drove the truck to town i put 5 gallons in it, yet at the pump it took slightly over 15 gallons, meaning its actually a 20 gallon tank with 15 or 16 actual useable gallons. The rest of the fuel is below the pump pickup, this is what led to my down fall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mythreesons Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 Well ain't that a kick in the pants?!?!?!?!?! :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 tank size for a swb should be 18 gal. :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftpiercecracker1 Posted April 15, 2013 Author Share Posted April 15, 2013 I have always always been told it was a 15 gallon. Since my fuel gauge is FUBAR and i have to rely on my odometer, how many gallons should i multiply 15mpg by? I figure 15 is about the average fuel economy for both on road and offroad driving combined. 15 x 18 would be 270miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 What's the tank size for a '86 long bed 4-banger, 4-speed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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