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Towing a MJ with a MJ??


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I bought the electronic brake controller (uses inertia to engage the trailer brakes) and used my long box '86 with custom tow dolly (front wheels go over center on the dolly axle to put weight onto the tow vehicle and wheels have their own steering, with truck snow chains to lock the tires in place. It was made for Uhaul, then they sold me the prototype cheap) to haul a '73 F350, my '84 J10, a Grand Wagoneer, and a bunch of XJs plus my current MJ home from up to 100 miles away.

That's a 4 cyl, TBI, 5 speed, 4.10 gears, LT235/75/15 tires and a slight brake upgrade. Wish I hadn't sold it now. I used it to take 1 car shell on the box (of my '73 J4000) and a rolling shell behind.

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I tow a boat behind my 1992 comanche. Braking was terrible before I added a set of helper springs.

 

http://www.hellwigproducts.com/products ... efault.asp

 

I actually found them at a pick and pull for $10. They have made a world of difference in the control and handling of my MJ while towing. boat/motor/trailer is shy of 3000lbs on a truck scale. MJ handles it no problem.

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the vacuum booster does not improve the brakes, it simply makes it esier to push the pedal.

Brake actuation is a matter of the master cyliner piston moving in it's bore. If you could apply enough pressure to the brake pedal you could still actuate the brakes 100%

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Been working on cars for over 35yrs, know how brakes work. Also know each make / model of car is different on how much pressure it takes to actuate the brakes. Like my little 93 Capri takes little and my 2500 GMC diesel on 36" tires takes both feet and all you can push to stop. My first car had 4 drum brakes, single reservoir master cyl. and no vacum booster, and you did not / could not want to stop quick in it :D

 

I would like to know where are the hookup points, what size air piston do they use. Do they size the piston to the weight of the car? On a big 28" class A RV I flat pulled a 4door VW rabbit and did not even know it was behind me till I would cut a corrner close and rubbed something :D A system like that can be used behind a RV and you would not be able tell much on how it stops. Put something like that behind a MJ and the setup is much more critical.

 

Charles

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true, it would be much more critical in an application like this. I know that it's been done, but for the life of me can't find the product.

I remember it being caled a turtle, and it was fixed in place of the cap on the master cylinder, and used air pressure to simply push the fluid.

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A few years back I was walking by a RV getting fuel at a truck stop and in the car being pulled was a nice SS ram strapped around the drivers seat running down to the the brake peddle. It had a small plate at the peddle and a large plate at the seat back and a line that ran out the window w/ the light wiring to the RV. All I know is it looked like He!! and I wanted out in front him :cheers:

 

Charles

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It can be really scarry towing anything oversized with an MJ. Granted if you weren't using the first trailer you could get your hands on to get your CJ off the interstate it might be a diff. story. This was after a ~35mi trip home. No trailer brakes and way too much weight for the MJ to handle.

 

 

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I use my J4000 for anything bigger than an XJ. (sometimes for XJs too)

 

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XJs don't even begin to give it a workout. This is a '90 E350 cube van loaded with TVs. The 7.3 diesel popped a rod and I towed it 150 miles home for my buddy, then did the motor swap for him (for ca$h that is!)

 

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It can be really scarry towing anything oversized with an MJ. Granted if you weren't using the first trailer you could get your hands on to get your CJ off the interstate it might be a diff. story. This was after a ~35mi trip home. No trailer brakes and way too much weight for the MJ to handle.

 

IMO you should have loaded it on tehre w/ the motor in the front for better tongue wieght, also the trailer looks very heavy duty...

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It can be really scarry towing anything oversized with an MJ. Granted if you weren't using the first trailer you could get your hands on to get your CJ off the interstate it might be a diff. story. This was after a ~35mi trip home. No trailer brakes and way too much weight for the MJ to handle.

 

IMO you should have loaded it on tehre w/ the motor in the front for better tongue wieght, also the trailer looks very heavy duty...

 

BUT since the rear axles are farther back on that trailer then there supposed to be,(there is a forumla to figure axle location for optimum tongue load/balance of the trailer in general)even w/ the motor in the rear of trailer, it still looks ,like to much tongue wieght.

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This is what you need.

 

Click me!

 

Its a standalone brake system that plugs into an electronic brake control you mount under your dash. when you push your pedal in the MJ tow vehicle, the machine presses your brake pedal in the towed vehicle. It works EXTREMELY well. It can stop the towed vehicle by itself if needed, which is part of the design cause it has break-away protection for emergencies. But if you could afford this you might be able to afford a better tow vehicle.

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We did the same thing with the red jeep from KC 12 hours on the road at 45 because the darn thing wanted to do is bounce all over the road. With 1 ¼” receiver on a 95 grand now you should of seen the looks that we got from that.

 

Plus I started this thread and every one told me that it is a bad ideal and I agree with that but it is funning that every one has a different way to do it or has done it or knows how it could be done better. :popcorn:

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It can be really scarry towing anything oversized with an MJ. Granted if you weren't using the first trailer you could get your hands on to get your CJ off the interstate it might be a diff. story. This was after a ~35mi trip home. No trailer brakes and way too much weight for the MJ to handle.

 

IMO you should have loaded it on tehre w/ the motor in the front for better tongue wieght, also the trailer looks very heavy duty...

 

BUT since the rear axles are farther back on that trailer then there supposed to be,(there is a forumla to figure axle location for optimum tongue load/balance of the trailer in general)even w/ the motor in the rear of trailer, it still looks ,like to much tongue wieght.

 

The first time we loaded it we went the other way (CJ facing forward) and the front end of the MJ started to come off the ground right about the time the rear wheels of the cj cleared the ramps. We turned it around and still had way too much tounge weight for a stock MJ but I had to get it home. The trailer was borrowed last minute from a friend who owns a car dealership. It is a 26ft flatbed and it is extremely heavy. On the way to pick up the cj I wondered if the MJ could pull the weight of the cj and the trailer. the trailer was noticeable behind even when empty. But the good ole 4.0 came through with flying colors. Man I miss that truck.

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  • 5 months later...

my mj was flat towed by a full size dodge with tailor breaks on the way back the full size dodge was towed by my mj breaking wasn't half as bad as looking at the sky and a very light steering wheel it can be done but don't do it with your $500 tires on go get some good street tires and beef up the rear suspension and bigger disks and disks all the way around and if the tranny doesn't crap out half way there you'll be ok.

 

 

 

 

 

ps my bumper had a nice bend in it when all was said and done

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