hitman72 Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 Got my aal in the mail today and it did not have the bands to secure the new pack once installed. The box was opened (don't do to rough shipping ). Got it online at 4wd and the pic showed them in the package but the description did not. If in fact they did not come in the kit should I get them or can I run without them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComancheKid45 Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 Theyre not needed. just check on the leafs now and then and maybe carry a hammer to smack em back straight if they start to fan out alittle.....but youll be fine without em ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hitman72 Posted February 20, 2013 Author Share Posted February 20, 2013 cool thanks. thats what i thought. When installing them you just want to keep with the pyramid (shortest to longest)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 Where did you get your AAL and how much lift are you supposed to get? and yeah you want to go shortest to longest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hitman72 Posted February 22, 2013 Author Share Posted February 22, 2013 4wd.com $50 says it should get me 3 inchs but we will see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Theyre not needed. just check on the leafs now and then and maybe carry a hammer to smack em back straight if they start to fan out alittle.....but youll be fine without em ;) No, you will NOT be fine without them. You can drive without them long enough to buy some, but the leaves will have a tendency to twist, and sooner or later a leaf is going to make contact with a tire and shred the sidewall. You can buy XJ-type spring clips from Husky Spring Company on-line if you can't find them locally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComancheKid45 Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Sorry let me reword my statement, They are not needed but definently reccommended, If you keep an eye on them they won't migrate outta place enough to cause any problems, I have a friend thats been running around in his XJ with an S10 AAL for 2+ years with no band clamps on his leafs and hasnt had any issues, and he's definently not 1 to keep up with matinence and checking over his vehicle. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 The first thing I noticed when I got my new spring pack from General Spring (the military wrapped ones in 3(2), is that they didn't have the clip. I thought to myself aren't they going to spin??? I have them installed, and kept meaning to e-mail Joe and ask his advice, but kept forgetting. This thread has reminded me, so i sent him an e-mail. I will post on here what he advises. Because of the arch, it will be hard to put a clamp anywhere but right next to the perches, but i think even that would be better than none at all. If you add a spring with the same or close to the same arch as the mains, then I would most definately want one, but that is just my uneducated opinion until the expert advises me otherwise. Here is a picture. Notice the clamps holding the main, 2 &3 spring, but nothing on the overloads... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hitman72 Posted February 22, 2013 Author Share Posted February 22, 2013 ya i figured they were good to have as a safety and piece of mind kind of thing. I will get some on the way but in the mean time just keep an eye on them. second and third question: 2. with just two inches how much should i drop the bump stops. 3. I have not looked at them (enough threads) but can i reuse U bolts? or should i get new ones? and if so is it something the hardware store would have in the grade 8 section? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Just got an answer back from Joe. Here is his reply: "That’s the way they’re designed by Jeep. The U bolts will keep them from shifting sideways just make sure they’re tight and you should have no problems but all vehicles up to present day are designed the same way." So, i'll run without them and keep an eye out for movement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biotex Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 ya i figured they were good to have as a safety and piece of mind kind of thing. I will get some on the way but in the mean time just keep an eye on them. second and third question: 2. with just two inches how much should i drop the bump stops. 3. I have not looked at them (enough threads) but can i reuse U bolts? or should i get new ones? and if so is it something the hardware store would have in the grade 8 section? It is recommended to always get new u-bolts. With that said, if the old ones fit, I reuse them, and have never had a problem. I have always felt that the manufacturers use better quality parts than are available to the aftermarket. I have lost a lot of faith in steel quality these days. Too many imported pieces... Example: Just 3 days ago my buddy asked me to come help him get his truck home. He had a blown head gasket. He is a professional mechanic by trade, and had just rebuilt the 350 not even 250 miles ago. We get it to his shop, and he finds two head bolts broken off. He explained he torqued them with his high dollar snap on torque wrench to 65ft/lbs in a 3 step process etc.... He purchased those headbolts from JEGS. Were supposed to be stronger than stock. After a call to JEGS, they agreed to send him some ARP bolts. Where do you think those JEGS bolts were manufactured? I didn't ask, but have a suspicion they are not US steel. Had he reused the OEM headbolts, I'm pretty sure he'd have never had a problem. He's running only 25 to 35 more HP than stock. No way those bolts should have snapped unless they were defective... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hitman72 Posted February 22, 2013 Author Share Posted February 22, 2013 Ya the U.S. steel industry is a sad sight these days. My girlfriend's dad works at a steel plant and told me that their cost to buy the raw materials is higher then what their Chinese counterparts are selling the finished product for! :doh: We really need to rethink what are priorities should be . But not to get to political.... haha Thanks for the advice, i will be sure to clean them up and put penetrating oil on them before i start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hitman72 Posted February 22, 2013 Author Share Posted February 22, 2013 O and a fourth question. With just two inch lift in the front i can run stock shocks but the ones that are on it are shot (might as well use them as paper wights) When i get new ones what should i get ones that are a bit longer? What should the length of the new ones be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 4wd.com $50 says it should get me 3 inchs but we will see. Well let me know how that goes for ya, if it works good I may have to get me some Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hitman72 Posted February 23, 2013 Author Share Posted February 23, 2013 Well let me know how that goes for ya, if it works good I may have to get me some I will, if i had the money o would have gone with full packs (cause my are super soft) but we will see. O ya at 4wd.com don't look at the pictures they provide in the aid, i leaned that one on this purchase. haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 I will, if i had the money o would have gone with full packs (cause my are super soft) but we will see. O ya at 4wd.com don't look at the pictures they provide in the aid, i leaned that one on this purchase. haha How come? lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hitman72 Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 in the pic it showed the leafs, tie down bolts and the bands. When i got it it just had the leafs and bolts. I did not read the fine print i guess, but from what i have read above it should not be a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hitman72 Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 O and a fourth question. With just two inch lift in the front i can run stock shocks but the ones that are on it are shot (might as well use them as paper wights) When i get new ones what should i get ones that are a bit longer? What should the length of the new ones be? what about this one tho Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComancheKid45 Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Stock shocks will work but there are options out there from your generic companies (Rough Country, Pro Comp, Rancho, ect.) for 2-3" lift shocks. As for an excatly numeric length, I'm not sure on that 1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohic Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Go to the parts store and ask for the rear shocks on a 1993 Toyota T100 with 4wd. I used them for the rear of my truck with about 4" of lift and they're a little short if I wanted to really flex the rear axle. On the road, they're just fine. Straight from Monroe's website, check the extended and compressed lengths from the Comanche: ... to the Toyota T100: Not quite a couple inches longer, but I'd say better than running stock shocks. You've got plenty of off the shelf shocks to choose from too if there's a budget in mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hitman72 Posted March 1, 2013 Author Share Posted March 1, 2013 Thanks, i am hoping to put the lift on tomorrow at which point i will take some measurements and see what will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 Hey man did this ever work out for ya? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hitman72 Posted March 24, 2013 Author Share Posted March 24, 2013 ya it did, was super easy. lifted the truck nicely (don't have exact measurements but about 2 1/2 inchs) out of a 3 inch kit. It rides nice too and handles loads much better now. I am going to have to but on a longer break line before i go flexing it hard. Looking to use the 96 dakota line. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3yksVkcO1Xo i watched this and it was exactly the same (skip to 3:00) any other questions let me know. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 ya it did, was super easy. lifted the truck nicely (don't have exact measurements but about 2 1/2 inchs) out of a 3 inch kit. It rides nice too and handles loads much better now. I am going to have to but on a longer break line before i go flexing it hard. Looking to use the 96 dakota line. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3yksVkcO1Xo i watched this and it was exactly the same (skip to 3:00) any other questions let me know. :cheers: Youre going to have to post that video as a desktop link lol I can't get it work as mobile or normal. So how did you level the front, spacers or new coils? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hitman72 Posted March 24, 2013 Author Share Posted March 24, 2013 I will when i am on the real computer haha. Well it not done yet but i bought 1 3/4 inch lift coils off quadratack made by old man emu. I may put a spacer in it if they are not quite enough. But i hear the ride is worth the money also. I hope to have them in within the week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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