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Truck Keeps Dieing And Left Me Stranded. What's Wrong With It.


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This weekend and loaded the truck up to head to the beach about 3 hours away to fish and hunt and spend the Xmas vacation. On the way out of town I was going to get gas and it was on empty. I ran out of gas right in front of the gas station. Any way I filled it up and it started up. The died on me when I was coming to a stop a mile down the road. Took a few cranks and about ten mins ans it started up again.Then got on the high way and it ran to the my home town fine in about 2 and a half hours. Had it idling in the drive way after I got back when I was about to make the 30 min drive to the beach and it died idling, same story a few cranks and 5-10 mins it started back up. Then it did it to me a couple times more throughout the next two days. It alwaysed died coming to a stop or idling. The last night I was heading to the gas station. Had a 1/4 tank and it died while going about 50. Had a few large misses it felt like with in about 45 secs then nothing. Tried to get it started but was never secsessful. Got 12 dollars In it and had it towed back to the beach house. I then stuck a flat blade screw driver in the purge valve in the fuel rail and it spit out gas then air then gas. Did that a couple of times still it was straight fuel. But still couldn't get it to start. This morning woke up and it cranked right up. So I let it idle for about 10-15 mins and it died again. So I just left it there and as I was leaving accidently LOCKED THE KEYS IN IT!! Dumb me!!! Any way so what do y'all think. I have no idea where to go from here...... Please help.

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Sorry can't help much but I just came in from 4 inches of snow this morning cleaning ice and snow off the XJ. So at least you not breaking down in the snow and 25 degree weather. Good luck some one on here will have some ideas I am sure.

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If there is an electric fuel pump inside the tank, and you let them run low on gas, the bearings inside the pump have been known to heat up and seize. The gas cools the pump, so it is best to never go below 1/4 tank.

 

What about bad gas? Clogged filter from pumping out the water in the bottom of the tank when you ran out???

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Ok I will do that when I can get back to the truck cruiser. Also I have new 703 injectors and fuel pressure regulator that has been running on the truck for about 5 months now with no problems. Is this signs of a CPS failure?

 

Possibly. Only one way to tell:

Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting

 

 

 

Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark.

 

Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad.

 

The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark.

 

Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected.

 

You should get a reading of .5 AC volts.

 

If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer.

 

Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off.

 

A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Revised 07-30-2012

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88 huh? Ever do this?

 

 

Renix Jeep C101 Connector Refreshing

 

 

The C101 connector on 1987 and 1988 Renix Jeeps was a source of electrical resistance when the vehicles were new. So much so that the factory eliminated this connector in the 1989 and 1990 models. The factory recommended cleaning this connector to insure the proper voltage and ground signals between the ECU and the fuel injection sensors. We can only imagine how this connector has become a larger source of voltage loss and increased resistance over a period of almost 25 years. The C101 connector needs to be cleaned at least once in the lifetime of your vehicle. Chances are it’s never been done before.

 

 

 

Almost every critical signal between the engine sensors, injectors, ECU, and some to the TCU, travel this path through the C101 connector.

 

The C101 connector is located on the driver’s side firewall above and behind the brake booster. It is held together with a single bolt in it’s center. To get the connectors apart, simply remove the bolt and pull the halves apart. You will find the connector is packed with a black tar like substance which has hardened over time.

 

Take a pocket screwdriver or the like and scrape out all the tar crap you can. Follow up by spraying out both connector halves with brake cleaner and then swabbing out the remainder of the tar. Repeat this procedure until the tar is totally removed. This may require 3 or more repetitions. Wipe out the connectors after spraying with a soft cloth.

 

If you have a small pick or dental tool, tweak the female connectors on the one side so they grab the pins on the opposite side a bit tighter before bolting both halves back together.

 

 

 

Revised 07-17-2012

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Interesting points on the pump. Didn't realize this; as I always pretty much run it to E.

 

Sorry to clutter the thread; just wanted to post on it. Hopefully you can get it sorted out man.

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Interesting points on the pump. Didn't realize this; as I always pretty much run it to E.

 

Sorry to clutter the thread; just wanted to post on it. Hopefully you can get it sorted out man.

 

Actually, thanks for allowing us to emphasize that continually running these trucks low on gas is extremely hard on the pumps. It doesn't cost any more money to keep more gas in your tank.

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Actually, thanks for allowing us to emphasize that continually running these trucks low on gas is extremely hard on the pumps. It doesn't cost any more money to keep more gas in your tank.

Err; allow me to re-phrase. I don't actually run the truck until it's out of gas; I simply run it to about the 1/8th mark. :eek:

 

But your point still stands; even though some people don't have that luxury. I know for a while I didn't. Running paycheck to paycheck is hard sometimes.

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Err; allow me to re-phrase. I don't actually run the truck until it's out of gas; I simply run it to about the 1/8th mark. :eek:

 

But your point still stands; even though some people don't have that luxury. I know for a while I didn't. Running paycheck to paycheck is hard sometimes.

 

I understand. But even 1/8, like my wife used to do until her fuel pump died, is on the ragged edge IMHO.

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You can always do like a buddy of mine did. When you get low, and broke, put some pebbles into the tank so you can make it home. :eek:

 

In all fairness, he was pretty drunk at the time, and stranded in the middle of the desert . He did make it home... :doh:

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Well I'm pretty sure it's the fuel pump. Just had it towed into town to a shop here. Really have no choice since I'm 2 1/2 hours from home and don't have access for a place to work on it or tools. The shop opens weds morning to I'll give them a call and let them know the deal.however I'm leaving Tuesday night cause that's my only way to get a ride back. Keep y'all updated.

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About the same mileage I get...

My money is on clogged fuel pickup strainer.

After it quit, and sat for 20 min or so, would it start and run normally? Chances are running it so low (out) on fuel it sucked up whatever is remaining in the little resevoir in the bottom of the tank, and the strainer is clogged.

These in tank pumps rely on being submerged in gas to cool them, could have been the final blow, also.

On mine, when I finally figured out what had already been hacked, ( I had a xj guage/pump in the mj tank that had been JB Welded to fix leaks, apparently forced into place) and the massive amount of rust/sand? junk in the bottom, I got a tank without the resevoir and a new xj guage/pump.

Things work fine now, I have run it down to less than 1/4 with no problems, tho I try to keep it above 1/2, who knows when I might have to go somewhere when stations aren't open, and once full it doesn't cost any more to keep it at that level than run it lower and risk having problems...

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About the same mileage I get...

My money is on clogged fuel pickup strainer.

After it quit, and sat for 20 min or so, would it start and run normally? Chances are running it so low (out) on fuel it sucked up whatever is remaining in the little resevoir in the bottom of the tank, and the strainer is clogged.

These in tank pumps rely on being submerged in gas to cool them, could have been the final blow, also.

On mine, when I finally figured out what had already been hacked, ( I had a xj guage/pump in the mj tank that had been JB Welded to fix leaks, apparently forced into place) and the massive amount of rust/sand? junk in the bottom, I got a tank without the resevoir and a new xj guage/pump.

Things work fine now, I have run it down to less than 1/4 with no problems, tho I try to keep it above 1/2, who knows when I might have to go somewhere when stations aren't open, and once full it doesn't cost any more to keep it at that level than run it lower and risk having problems...

 

 

 

That is exactly what it does.

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