Dracokain Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 I recently discovered that I need to change mine out and i'm going to attempt it on my own, are there any tips or tricks that I need to know before I go about doing this? Its for an 87 4.0L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotMatt Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 It's pretty straight forward, do one at a time and support the motor from underneath on the oil pan with a large piece of wood on the oil pan, and a floor jack. The driver's side one is kind of a pain to reach, and the passenger side one you may need to remove the oil filter and oil filter adapter to get the bolt out depending on which way it was put in, so plan it for your next oil change interval. [EDIT]: If you're going through the trouble to replace the motor mounts, and haven't bought new ones already... I'd also recommend going with an aftermarket rubber or poly mount (like from M.O.R.E. or brown dog) rather than parts store OEM style stockers. You'll get much better life and less engine movement out of the aftermarket ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dracokain Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 Thank you very much, sadly I already bought the mount and the oil filter is in the way so it seems like that its going to make the project a little more time consuming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 Thank you very much, sadly I already bought the mount and the oil filter is in the way so it seems like that its going to make the project a little more time consuming. Great opportunity to replace your oil filter adapter seals!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainman Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 Thank you very much, sadly I already bought the mount and the oil filter is in the way so it seems like that its going to make the project a little more time consuming. "mount" or "mountS" ? do both together. :) easy as pie. driver is done entirely from under the truck and is easier than pass side due to lame oil filter location...as was mentioned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyav8r Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 I wish I had known about the motor mount/oil filter adapter issue before I changed the o-rings. Could have checked the mounts and done them at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dracokain Posted November 28, 2012 Author Share Posted November 28, 2012 So I guess I should just pull the oil filter adapter off and replace the seals while I'm at it? I guess since everything else needs replaced it seems I can get that in also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyav8r Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 It doesn't just pull off. You can't get a standard socket on the adapter bolt. I used a combination box end/open end wrench (5/8" IIRC) with the box end on the bolt and another box end hooked into the open end as a cheater. Get as long a cheater as you can get under the truck and push and pull with all you got. It might come loose without foul language, but I doubt it. Should be a fairly recent thread on this as I just did mine about a month ago. If I can find it I'll post a link to it. The other problem is finding all three of the o-rings. There are two under the adapter and one on the bolt. That's addressed in the same thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 The Renix o-rings are sold at the dealer individually. The HO o-rings are sold as a kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 Driver side done from underneath? That sounds like a pain with the exhaust of front driveshaft in the way. I did mine from on top, removed the air filter housing and you have great access. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyc Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 The Renix o-rings are sold at the dealer individually. The HO o-rings are sold as a kit. The o-rings for 91-92 are also sold individually. The three o-ring kit is only for 93+. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 The Renix o-rings are sold at the dealer individually. The HO o-rings are sold as a kit. The HO o-ring kit (p/n 4720363) fits vehicles mfg. after 7-16-92 actually. Before that you need to buy the three o-rings separately, as follows: 33002970 (.80") 33002971 (1.30") 33002972 (2.48") Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 Thanks for the clarification. So, the o-rings changed when they went to the Torx bolt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 Thanks for the clarification. So, the o-rings changed when they went to the Torx bolt? Yes, when they changed the adapter bolt in 1993. Don't know if it was Torx or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted November 29, 2012 Share Posted November 29, 2012 Yes, when they changed the adapter bolt in 1993. Don't know if it was Torx or not. Ever thought normal Torx was nasty to remove? Aluminum Torx bolt fastened at high torque! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainman Posted November 29, 2012 Share Posted November 29, 2012 Driver side done from underneath? That sounds like a pain with the exhaust of front driveshaft in the way. I did mine from on top, removed the air filter housing and you have great access. Nope. Air ratchet and wrench and 2 swivels and i changed the driver mount from laying right under the truck in literally 5 mins. didnt have to take anything else out. Passenger took a bit longer cause of oil filter mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 I had the same problem with the passenger side. Did the driver side in 10 min, including removing and reinstalling air filter housing. Passenger wanted to be a PIA and took half an hour. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 Speaking of motor mounts, has anyone tried the aftermarket Brown Dog rubber bushed mounts? I've read more than once that even their rubber mounts transmit more engine vibes than the OEMs. For that reason I'd never consider a poly-bushed mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 Speaking of motor mounts, has anyone tried the aftermarket Brown Dog rubber bushed mounts? I've read more than once that even their rubber mounts transmit more engine vibes than the OEMs. For that reason I'd never consider a poly-bushed mount. Their polyurethane does transmit a good amount of vibration. Their rubber mounts do transmit more than stock, but mainly at idle, certain RPM ranges, or load. I do have slightly stiffer rubber mounts, not Brown Dog, in my Wrangler and they only cause extra vibration at idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 Their polyurethane does transmit a good amount of vibration. Their rubber mounts do transmit more than stock, but mainly at idle, certain RPM ranges, or load. I do have slightly stiffer rubber mounts, not Brown Dog, in my Wrangler and they only cause extra vibration at idle. Thanks. Which mounts are you using in the Wrangler Alexia? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 Thanks. Which mounts are you using in the Wrangler Alexia? Stock motor mounts, but I swapped out the tranmission mounts for short stiffer rubber mounts that came with the AEV belly pan. I can tell they are transmitting more vibrations, but since they do not directly rest on the frame rails that affect is limited mostly to idling. Basically since the Brown Dog rubber mounts has less average distance between the bolt and the bushing housing the rubber has to be stiffer to preventing smashing into the housing. A stock motor mount has two inches of rubber between the seat and the bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 Stock motor mounts, but I swapped out the tranmission mounts for short stiffer rubber mounts that came with the AEV belly pan. I can tell they are transmitting more vibrations, but since they do not directly rest on the frame rails that affect is limited mostly to idling. Basically since the Brown Dog rubber mounts has less average distance between the bolt and the bushing housing the rubber has to be stiffer to preventing smashing into the housing. A stock motor mount has two inches of rubber between the seat and the bolt. Makes sense. I'll be going with the stock Mopar motor mounts. Gracias. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now