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Remove Transmission Without Engine


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Does anyone have a DIY around for removing the tranny without removing the engine? I can't seem to find my service manual :oops:. I displaced it :doh: . Just don't know if it's actually possible to get all the Bell bolts out without moving the engine. The top bolts, if even possible, look like a serious FPITA to remove. FYI I believe it is a Pukegoat 5spd. Also, where the line from the master meets the tranny underneath, the short dead-ended 4in-or-so dead-end line is the bleeder correct? Just don't want to get anything wrong. Having to ask and getting correct info DOES beat making a stupid mistake, at the expense of sounding like a noob *sigh. Thx.

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I know on a 4 cylinder it is possible as I have done it twice now. Some are easier to reach from the top, some are easier to reach from the bottom, have a good transmission jack handly and some way to raise the vehicle and support it afterwards to be able to roll the transmission jack with the transmission on it out from under the vehicle.

 

Not too much to it, just take your time, make sure you have all the bolts removed, all the linkages popped off, all the wires unhooked etc. Also make sure the back of the engine is supported as without a transmission there is nothing holding it up.

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It's done all the time. Remove the transmission support crossmember. Now there are 2 ways to go. Study it and see which way is easiest. Lower the transmission. Using a short socket with a U-joint and a long extension the upper bolts can be removed. Sometimes raising the transmission and coming in over the top of the engine with a box end will be easier. Remove the hardest to get to bolts first before removing any of the others. Remove the started before any thing else. While raising, lowering the engine check for interference between fan blade- radiator and any sensors, wires to firewall, fender wells. Make sure you have disconnected all wires, fluid lines before dropping tranny. Use your eyes and common sense.

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if you have a 4.0, the upper bolts will be the reverse torx head bolts so be prepared. I'm thinking they are an E-12 size? Whatever they are, do yourself a favor and DON'T reuse them. at the very least get normal hex heads, but I recommend getting studs for the upper bolts. that way they work as a guide for re-installation. :thumbsup:

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Alright! The wealth of information and help here is far more than I expected to receive when I checked on my post :clapping:. Thanks all very much. Oh, one question though: the short metal tubing that protrudes just a bit above where the line from the master cylinder meets the transmission, that is the bleeder valve? It's only about 3 or 4 inches long.

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Alright! The wealth of information and help here is far more than I expected to receive when I checked on my post :clapping:. Thanks all very much. Oh, one question though: the short metal tubing that protrudes just a bit above where the line from the master cylinder meets the transmission, that is the bleeder valve? It's only about 3 or 4 inches long.

 

 

correct it is the clutch bleeder. On mine it's 1/4" for the bleeder and 9/16" for the connector.

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