mountainman Posted September 6, 2012 Posted September 6, 2012 :rotfl2: Your crackin me up dude. You need an award for shortest post ever. So... whats the deal? pedal is concrete like? rubbery feel? did you inspect stuff? pedal rod popped out of the master cyl? something out of place with pedal arm? clutch failed and won't allow slave cyl travel? has to be something simple.
pug Posted September 7, 2012 Author Posted September 7, 2012 Peal is like concrete. Bought new clutch set slave cylinder just in case anything else i should get.Its a 1998 ax5
Harley Posted September 7, 2012 Posted September 7, 2012 Sure your stepping on the clutch and not the brake?
Comanche County Posted September 7, 2012 Posted September 7, 2012 Had something like this happen on an F250 that kept popping the hydraulic line off of the slave cylinder. The clip that held the line to the slave was a bad design, and would pop off every other week or so resulting in zero pedal travel. When it happens the fluid in the master has no where to go. Air compresses, liquids don't and will result in a rock hard pedal. Check and ensure its connected to the slave properly and that there are no shipping plugs or debris of any kind on/in the slave cylinder. There is something preventing fluid flow.
jimoshel Posted September 7, 2012 Posted September 7, 2012 Also if it's been sitting for awhile it's possible the piston is froze up to the cylinder wall. Will need dis assembled and cleaned.
87MJTIM Posted September 8, 2012 Posted September 8, 2012 Leg isn't long enough? :hmm: Are you sure it's a manual and not an automatic? :rotf: :yes:
pug Posted September 11, 2012 Author Posted September 11, 2012 It was the throwout bearing spring.It broke and got wedge in the fork causing clutch pedal not to go down. Drove to work everything is good. Tc was leaking so i put a new seal in still leaking. Does anybody have a part # for seal the rear of tc were driveshat goes into its a 231.thanks
mountainman Posted September 11, 2012 Posted September 11, 2012 SKF Part # 15047 TIMKEN Part # 2506 NATIONAL Part # 4370N That is what i could find online for the rear output shaft seal. :)
pug Posted September 11, 2012 Author Posted September 11, 2012 would #17 be worth replacing along with rear seal
pug Posted September 14, 2012 Author Posted September 14, 2012 Would part # 17 be worth replacing and has anyone ever replaced. Its some kind of bushing. thanks
HOrnbrod Posted September 15, 2012 Posted September 15, 2012 Would part # 17 be worth replacing and has anyone ever replaced. Its some kind of bushing. thanks Unless you have a lot of side to side slop in the driveshaft yoke it probably does not need replacing. A properly installed seal should be all you need. And good job ignoring the wannabe comedians posting useless replies. :dunce:
pug Posted September 15, 2012 Author Posted September 15, 2012 Took to local shop they put in new rear output seal in transfercase starting to leak again. Is there something else causing this to leak. thanks
Eagle Posted September 17, 2012 Posted September 17, 2012 Took to local shop they put in new rear output seal in transfercase starting to leak again. Is there something else causing this to leak. thanks As Hornbrod wrote, part #17 does not need to be replaced "Unless you have a lot of side to side slop in the driveshaft yoke ..." If you have enough slop that a new seal was destroyed in a short time, you might need to replace part #17.
HOrnbrod Posted September 17, 2012 Posted September 17, 2012 Took to local shop they put in new rear output seal in transfercase starting to leak again. Is there something else causing this to leak. thanks There could be. Pull the driveshaft and examine the slip yoke shaft. It should be smooth with no grooves especially where it rides in the seal. If there is even a minute worn groove, you can throw seals in it all day and they will leak eventually. If there's a groove, replace the slip yoke. Also make sure the outer seal edge is coated with a thin coat of hi-temp RTV when installing so it won't leak around the outer pressed in edge. Don't drive it for 24-hours or so to let the RTV set up.
pug Posted September 18, 2012 Author Posted September 18, 2012 Just put in new seal and high temp rtv. Hope this fixes it.thanks
pug Posted September 19, 2012 Author Posted September 19, 2012 Drove about 15 miles came back home same problem. I guess i am going to get the bushing and new seal hopefully this will work.
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