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Complete Exhaust Replacement


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My tailpipe fell off and everything south of the muffler is quickly on its way, along with the muffler and cat soon to follow that I'm guessing. Been coming for a long time so I've been saving up for some replacement parts. Wondering what my options are for a DIY bolt-in replacement, if available (I think there's nothing though). Plan to do a few upgrades at the same time and want this to last, so I'm looking at stainless. Since it seems like I'll have to piece all the components together, I'd like to make sure I order all the correct parts and come up with a well thought out package. I thought I would start this thread with some common questions and expand on this with answers and any other tips, tricks, or mistakes I run into so that others might benefit.

 

I have a header to replace the manifold, besides sending it out for coating does anyone have experience good or bad with the DIY alternatives? I've been thinking of going with this stuff: http://www.techlinecoatings.com/Exhaust.htm#blacksatin

 

I've obviously done no research, do I need to remove the intake manifold to do remove the exhaust manifold? On my camaro, I went with Percy's dead-soft header gaskets and split-lock fasteners and am really happy, but nothing seems to exist for the 4.0. Are header gaskets a problem with these engines or would any regular pair from the parts store work?

 

I'd like to just keep a constant 2.5" tubing the whole way. The bends in the stock system look horrible, they must pinch down to one inch in some places. Are there any stainless 2.5" mandrel bend tubes I can get for any of the sections (manifold-to-cat, or muffler back)? Any negatives to increasing in size from the stepped 2.5"-2.25" system on an otherwise stock HO? Has anyone bought and used successfully the "build your own" kits available from Summit or Jegs, that come with mandrel tubing bends of various degrees and lengths?

 

From what I've read here, Gibson seems to be strongly recommended by a few people (sorry I can't remember who at the moment!). I have a pair of Dynomax SuperTurbos on my AMC 304 and they are pretty mellow, no droning, but with a nice idle that lets you know it's there without being obnoxious. That's what I'd like to achieve here. They seem to make a Superflow, Superflow CFT, and Race Superflow. What's the difference in sound between to regular and CFT versions? Any other recommendations?

 

It seems like there is plenty of room available, should I worry about keeping the stock muffler and cat length for any reason (or go with something else for any reason)?

 

My hangers are looking pretty rusty, and the rubber bits pretty cracked. Replacements (thinking Team Cherokee might have them) or good aftermarket alternatives available?

 

I'm not sure what I want yet for the outlets. On my camaro I have the SLP TOTL system (two-out-the-left) and it's really grown on me. I might like to compliment that with a TOTR on the MJ. Any cool pics of various tips? Then again, I'm big into function over form and am also thinking a single 2.5" polished stainless straight back slash tip would look good under the JCR bumper...

 

Time for some web searching! I will update this thread as I go along.

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If I ever get the extra cash..........

 

I want the Banks Torque Tubes.

 

I talked to the local muffler shop already about running out straight pipe. Where the cat is now (was!) I want it to spit to duals to the bumper. Then I will bring it home and cut and weld in two cans just before the bumper and then tips out.

 

 

It's only cash....scrape........scrape.........

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This is where i buy all my stuff.

 

http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/i ... =1022_1065

 

 

You will be able to build a NICE exhaust on a manch for a reasonable price with the vibrant stuff. Just lay under the truck with a notepad and envision where you want it. Use your tape measure as you go. So.. 20 inches straight.. write that on notepad.. then.... 15 degrees up *take notes* then 35 inches straight..... etc etc.

Then you know what sections you need to order. Doesnt have to be exact either cause as your cutting it theres so much room for error when welding. you can shave a bit more or whatever.

I don't want to make it sound too easy, but it always has been for me.

Get the straight pipe section at the exhaust shop in town to save shipping, and order any bends from the guys above.

 

Def post pics of it when done. You kinda inspired me, i may do one on mine now. I'm just a nutjob for new tires and new exhausts. Always really tops off a nice build.

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The first Vance and Hines can I had on my Honda was a 'slip-on' exactly like the full system I put on shown here. The slip on I used on my Ranger (don't' have a pic of it) but it ran and sounded real nice. Muffler shop charged my $120 to run new pipe off the cat to the rear, can hung just before the bumper.

 

If you know any of your bike buddies that have an extra slip-on.........works great.

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  • 1 month later...

Some parts are in! My muffler fell off the other day so I've been running around with the cat as my only muffler and it's getting tiring.

 

i-4dhjBdt-L.jpg

 

 

Hopefully taking it to the exhaust shop today to get some measurements. I think I'll be trying to go the Vibrant route and order the bends I need. Ideally I want to do everything in stainless with mandrel bends. Do it right, do it once. Anything less is just going to intstantly rust overnight where I live. I hate that front crush pipe with a passion but have read some exhaust shops don't like to bend their own due to clearance issues (and that you can smash the front DS against it if the position is wrong, among other things).

 

Header is the Clifford 6=8 dual which I got the Y-pipe with and will be running a single 2.25" pipe the whole way. Muffler, cat, and tailpipe are from http://www.bearriverconverters.com (don't forget the coupon code, "Tacomaworld" for a big discount!). They were great to work with, immediately after my order they contacted me to clarify a few things that were in the catalog and to make sure I was OK with what I ordered. Nice!

 

I'm not too sure on the tailpipe... it's kind of big but I couldn't find anything smaller that I liked. I was hoping to just find a nice dual 2.5" slash tip or something, but no luck. People want big honking tailpipes.

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Don't think the link worked for the source.

 

Can you tell me which Cat you puchased (brand/ part #). My 92 looks like it has a non stock cat and a straight pipe in place of the muffler pushing the stock exhaust tailpipe back about 6 inches and causing some unique rubbing noises that temporarily drown out the drone from the lack of muffler. I'd like to go back to a stock cat and muffler and have everything back where it should be.

 

Thanks

 

Gavin

92 Base 4.0

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I'd like to just keep a constant 2.5" tubing the whole way. The bends in the stock system look horrible, they must pinch down to one inch in some places. Are there any stainless 2.5" mandrel bend tubes I can get for any of the sections (manifold-to-cat, or muffler back)? Any negatives to increasing in size from the stepped 2.5"-2.25" system on an otherwise stock HO? Has anyone bought and used successfully the "build your own" kits available from Summit or Jegs, that come with mandrel tubing bends of various degrees and lengths?

 

The stock system is [2-1/5] [EDIT] 2-1/2 [/EDIT] inches for the exhaust pipe to the catalytic converter, and for the converter itself. The step is between the cat and the muffler -- 2-1/2" out of the cat, 2-1/4" into the muffler. I very much doubt you'll find anything off the shelf in stainless, but most muffler shops can bend a set of 2-1/2" pipes using the factory routing as a template.

 

From what I've read here, Gibson seems to be strongly recommended by a few people (sorry I can't remember who at the moment!). I have a pair of Dynomax SuperTurbos on my AMC 304 and they are pretty mellow, no droning, but with a nice idle that lets you know it's there without being obnoxious. That's what I'd like to achieve here. They seem to make a Superflow, Superflow CFT, and Race Superflow. What's the difference in sound between to regular and CFT versions? Any other recommendations?

 

It was most likely me who recommended Gibson, but I don't know the difference in sound between/among their various system options.

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Sorry about that, I fixed the link. I ended up getting just a universal cat, 70317, and universal muffler, 13SC224 since I planned to rebuild the entire system. The important thing to note is that I am going with a single constant 2.25" system from the collector to the tailpipe, unlike stock which tapers down from 2.5 to 2.25 (and I can't rememeber at the moment if it's the cat or the muffer that does the conversion [edit] according to Eagle's post above it's the cat that has different inlet and outlet sizes) so these parts may not work for you.

 

If you're really looking for stock replacements, I RockAuto looks like a good source (don't forget the coupon code for 5% off!), you can get the front pipe, cat, muffler, and tailpipe for pretty reasonable costs, or your local automotive store should be able to order anything you need if they don't already have it in stock.

 

I've also got a spare header if you're looking to upgrade...

 

Don't think the link worked for the source.

 

Can you tell me which Cat you puchased (brand/ part #). My 92 looks like it has a non stock cat and a straight pipe in place of the muffler pushing the stock exhaust tailpipe back about 6 inches and causing some unique rubbing noises that temporarily drown out the drone from the lack of muffler. I'd like to go back to a stock cat and muffler and have everything back where it should be.

 

Thanks

 

Gavin

92 Base 4.0

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I just purchased an all stock exhaust system from the exhaust manifold to the tip, I got every part including the hangers, isolators and gaskets from NAPA for under $300. One thing I did do is get a mufler that is 2.5" in and 2.5" out with the same orientation as stock and a 2.25 to 2.5 reducer for after the cat. I'm taking the tail pipe to a local mufler shop and letting them use it as a template for a 2.5" pipe then returning it to NAPA, It's a good thing that I have a good relationship with these guys. They know that that's what I am doing and are fine with it. I know that it's not the manderl bends that you are looking for but they are smooth (the bends in the stock tail pipe remind me of the stock air intake tube) and the pipe does not collaps enough to make a real difference with the increase in pipe size. For the last thirty years of my life I have lived in very rust prone areas and have never had good luck with SS exhaust, they still rust out over time and IMHO does not justify the added cost. Run 'em till they rust and do it again, It's just the nature of the beast.

 

Chopper

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My 88 had a patched up manifold, leaked like mad and noisy. Got a new manifold from Jackson & Sons Jeep in Talladega, AL (and a speedo cable - he has a lot of NOS at reasonable prices). New manifold down pipe from Advance Auto. Will get a direct fit Walker (or equal) cat, muffler and tailpipe from Advance, NAPA, or Rock Auto - whichever has the best overall cost. Might go with a little better sounding muffler if I can avoid the pissed off bee/ricer burner sound.

Just want to do it the simple way, bolt together. I suck at welding thin gauges.

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The important thing to note is that I am going with a single constant 2.25" system from the collector to the tailpipe, unlike stock which tapers down from 2.5 to 2.25 (and I can't rememeber at the moment if it's the cat or the muffer that does the conversion [edit] according to Eagle's post above it's the cat that has different inlet and outlet sizes) so these parts may not work for you.

 

That's not exactly what I wrote.

 

The factory cat is 2-1/2" inlet and 2-1/2" outlet. On the inlet side, the cat has a short pipe that terminates in a 4-bolt flange to mate up with the exhaust pipe. This is an integral part of the cat, unlike the universal style you bought. On the outlet side, the outlet pipe is also an integral part of the cat and there is a step-down from 2-1/2" to 2-1/4" midway between the cat and the muffler -- all integral with the cat.

 

It should look about like this:

 

mpe-23229_w.jpg

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