Don't shoot me for all this...

[MichiganDuck]

Just had to have the Mustang towed last night... which means I'm in a rush to get the MJ going as i start my fancy new job monday.

 

Still waiting on the radiator, but I'm confused as to the closed vs open loop and the filling procedure. I thnk I'm going to leave the coolant in the block and go from there?

 

New air filter as my old one has a decent amount of oil on it...is this something to worry about? What is that valve coming out of the valve cover and what do i replace it with? Plastic tube is broke, can i get away with using correct size hose?

 

Brake lights arent working... what fuse are they on? What else should i check? I have rear lights, and reverse lights. Just no brake lights.

 

Doing an oil change, how much oil? (havent bothered to search this one, just figured i'd throw it in.)

 

Also, i'd like to change the fluid in my 4spd.. what type of fluid should i run and how much? My 87 is just under 100k miles and I'm sure its never been changed.

 

Thanks guys.

 

87 2.5 4sp

[Zenobian_84]

1. Didn't know 87s came with a closed loop system. My own 87 2.5 has an open system. Should be the same procedure for a 4.0. If you do a search of "Closed System" you should find out how to "burp" the air out. Usually, you unplug the temperature sending unit (back of the block with the little wire running to it) and park the MJ on an incline to allow air to rise to the surface. Top the bottle overflow bottle off if it's getting low. Not sure if that's everything, or if that's mostly correct. :dunno: Double check to make sure though.

 

2. Oil on filter = Bad Thing (if it's more than a drop or two). It means you have "Blow-By" which is caused by the little plastic line on the back of the valve cover (runs from the VC to the Throttle Body) being gummed up / missing. You can replace the line with a similarly sized one.

 

3. Check the Haz/Stop Fuse (15 IIRC) and the Park LPS (10 IIRC). If it's not either of those, then you probably have a wiring mishap somewhere. Also, check the ground on the driver's side taillight. Should be a little wire running to the frame. Clean that up and remove the paint on the connection point so it can get a better ground. That's a cause for a lot of electrical things not working right on our rigs.

 

4. Just get a gallon jug of your preferred oil viscosity. Can't remember off the top of my head how much the 2.5 needs. Usually, if I'm at the ADD line, one quart will bring it up to full. :dunno:

 

5. 80w-90 is what my owner's manual said to put into an AX-4, so that's what I ran. There was a whole discussion on it HERE if you want to give it a read through. Has various member's opinions on what to run in the transmission, 4x4 system, and the motor.

 

Hope this all helps :cheers: Nice to see another 2.5'er out there. :clapping:

[Eagle]

2.5L takes 5 quarts.

 

4.0L takes six.

[MichiganDuck]

1. Didn't know 87s came with a closed loop system. My own 87 2.5 has an open system. I looked at your build thread and ours look the same. I guess visuals work better for me and i do have an open system

 

2. ...caused by the little plastic line on the back of the valve cover (runs from the VC to the Throttle Body) being gummed up / missing. You can replace the line with a similarly sized one. I was actually wondering about the valve thing coming out of the top of the VC towards the front that runs to the air box. Mine is broke. :doh:

 

3. Check the Haz/Stop Fuse (15 IIRC) and the Park LPS (10 IIRC). If it's not either of those, then you probably have a wiring mishap somewhere. Also, check the ground on the driver's side taillight. Should be a little wire running to the frame. Clean that up and remove the paint on the connection point so it can get a better ground. That's a cause for a lot of electrical things not working right on our rigs. Thanks! Going to look now. I need to pick up a good manual on this truck, just havent taken the time :doh:

 

2.5L takes 5 quarts.

Thanks Eagle!

[Comanche County]

Weed eater string is good for cleaning out the dried up carbon in the valve cover line. Mildly bend the line to break up the carbon, not too much if its brittle. Spray carb cleaner in it, then feed the weed eater string all the way through the line. Then more carb cleaner to push any remnants out.

[Zenobian_84]

 

2. ...caused by the little plastic line on the back of the valve cover (runs from the VC to the Throttle Body) being gummed up / missing. You can replace the line with a similarly sized one. I was actually wondering about the valve thing coming out of the top of the VC towards the front that runs to the air box. Mine is broke. :doh:

 

I was able to make a good replacement for that actually. If it's not broken at the bend of the Air inlet tube, you can just use some heater hose to run to the air box. IIRC, it was 3/4" I used to replace the "Special Cold Air Duct Tape" job the PO had on there when I bought it.... :roll:

 

If it's completely in need of total repair, I was able to fashion 2 parts together to make it work; Only works for the plastic valve covers though.

 

Dorman PN: 5047028 (90 degree Elbow; should be labeled "Chrysler PCV Elbow" if the PN doesn't match up. I don't have the box that the elbow came in, so I'm listing the number on the part itself. :oops: )

Dorman PN: 42059 (Grommet that elbow plugs into; labeled "AMC PCV Valve Grommet")

 

Don't know if you have an Advance Auto up there, but both parts were only $4 or $5 combined. And are both located in their "Dorman" Self-Help part of the store.

[Jeep Driver]

2.5L takes 5 quarts.

 

4.0L takes six.

 

 

 

2.5 takes 4 quarts.