project88mj Posted February 21, 2007 Posted February 21, 2007 so i want to know if i get some old wheels (those steel stamped kind) and put some lower profile tires on them would it work? see I'm really in to auto x and i used to do it in my old neon, well this season is coming up and i want to race. well i think my truck might sit too high so if i got some tires that have a smaller side wall i think it might lower it enough to race. the problem I'm having is i am not sure if the tires could hold the weight of my truck (I'm not sure how much they weigh) it is nkot a "big" truck so i just want to know if it will work?
87manche Posted February 21, 2007 Posted February 21, 2007 curb weight of an MJ and driver would probably be in the 3500Lb area, as long as you don't use it to haul anything with those tires it should be fine.
jage Posted February 21, 2007 Posted February 21, 2007 I wonder if you could find 14" rims instead of the stock 15" rims in the right bolt pattern. I wonder if they'd fit... you could be breaking new ground here...
87manche Posted February 21, 2007 Posted February 21, 2007 the only problem there might be the brake caliper. I'm sure you could find some old steel rims that are 5 on 4.5
Car RamRod Posted February 21, 2007 Posted February 21, 2007 you would want a shorter sidewall so if anything you would want to go 16". Explorer wheels may work. Come to think of it mustang wheels might work as well.
87manche Posted February 21, 2007 Posted February 21, 2007 yeah, but a short sidewall tire on a 14" rim would have two advantages. It would lower the entire turck, thus moving your CG down. It would effectively give you a gear ratio increase.
Oizarod115 Posted February 21, 2007 Posted February 21, 2007 my main concern would be spring rates, your springs are going to be SUPER soft for racing. i don't drive slow, and we've got some curvy roads, i'd hate to race my truck with stock rate springs. maybe some stiff shocks would be your friend?
jage Posted February 21, 2007 Posted February 21, 2007 We put some spring assisted rear shocks on my dad's XJ because he overloads it to go elk hunting. The problem is they'd probably wind up lifting the truck and you don't want to go that way.
feerocknok Posted February 21, 2007 Posted February 21, 2007 Awhile back someone was selling some lowering springs made by Warn in the classifieds. Don't know if they ever sold. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2611] They're probably a stiffer rate, but will lower your CoG either way.
Car RamRod Posted February 21, 2007 Posted February 21, 2007 yeah, but a short sidewall tire on a 14" rim would have two advantages. It would lower the entire turck, thus moving your CG down. It would effectively give you a gear ratio increase. I agree with you on that, but his engine/trans setup might prefer a taller gear setup (ie taller tires), and the height that you lose would be rather small, and with a truck like this, the extra unsprung weight in wheels and tires would more than likely be a benefit. To be honest though, I would just find an older rwd v8 car and gut it and do some odds and ends; you're gonna end up over your head in this deal, IMHO
feerocknok Posted February 21, 2007 Posted February 21, 2007 I don't know about the autocross everyone else has, but with our track setups and an slightly tuned vehicle, top speed might be 55. Also, we don't have height restrictions, just a general rule of no 4x4s (as in 4wd suvs and trucks).
87manche Posted February 21, 2007 Posted February 21, 2007 I can tell you this, stock gears suck for performance. If you could effectively increase your gear ratio you'd see a big performance jump. 31's and 3.73's beat most of the "sports" cars around here.
Pete M Posted February 22, 2007 Posted February 22, 2007 I'd get some used 15x8 steelies and a used set of wide-ish car tires for them. Something about 9 inches across would be nice. :D Then I'd put some effort into hooking up a rear anti-sway bar and put out the cash for some quality shocks. Then it's just a matter of making sure the rest of the truck is good-to-go and then I'd get out and have some fun.
JOMJ87 Posted February 23, 2007 Posted February 23, 2007 The spring rate issue could be solved by using something i have used in the past. Its a set of coil springs thqat you setup with bolt on clamps to your shock tubes. I used it to lift my truck back when i only had about 50 bucks to do it. They were at advanced auto and worked well. The don't give any lift unless you install them compressed and then bolt them on thus it holds the shock at almost full exstention(sp??) but if you install them how they are suposed to be it will work how you are needing. Oh and this is for the rear of the jeep the front is as easy as finding a set of coils for a full size and cutting them to length. Just a quick thought i had. Good luck. Cole
carnuck Posted February 23, 2007 Posted February 23, 2007 I run 33" with an SOA and the extra spring stiffness REALLY lets me cruise the corners! I do the ramp from I-405 southbound onto I-520 eastbound (towards Microsoft) at 50 mph when the ramp is clear. I've watched more than one R Honda go off the corner or spin out trying to keep up! :D
feerocknok Posted February 23, 2007 Posted February 23, 2007 Its a set of coil springs thqat you setup with bolt on clamps to your shock tubes. I used it to lift my truck back when i only had about 50 bucks to do it. They were at advanced auto and worked well. The don't give any lift unless you install them compressed and then bolt them on thus it holds the shock at almost full exstention(sp??) but if you install them how they are suposed to be it will work how you are needing. Cole So it basically turns them into a Macpherson strut? Welcome back to the forum Cole! :USAflag:
project88mj Posted February 24, 2007 Author Posted February 24, 2007 thanks guys that was a big help here is a nother question would i want a sway bar on the front or back ? there is more weight in front but i could get wheel hop in the back so what do yall think? tell me
feerocknok Posted February 24, 2007 Posted February 24, 2007 Both. Are you racing with a full-time t-case, or 2wd? AWD seems to benefit extremely well with them in the rear, even without a front bar.
project88mj Posted February 25, 2007 Author Posted February 25, 2007 2wd w/ an open diff. so i got good cornering but bad wheelspin on right turns so i limited money so i canolny get one but whitch one and why?
BarracudaBlueXJ Posted February 25, 2007 Posted February 25, 2007 i would do a sway bar in the front and none in the rear. with just a rear one it will try to lift the inside rear tire in corners, whereas a front sway bar will keep the rear tires planted
feerocknok Posted February 25, 2007 Posted February 25, 2007 If for some reason your factory front sway bar has been removed, all the bracketry should be there to put a new one in its place. You'd have to build all the bracketry for the rear as no one makes an MJ rear sway bar.
carnuck Posted February 26, 2007 Posted February 26, 2007 My '87 shortbed came with a swaybar (someone swiped the D44 before I got it) I tossed it when I did the SOA. Didn't think they were anything special? (I'm using the spring plates to mount my shocks on)
feerocknok Posted February 26, 2007 Posted February 26, 2007 My '87 shortbed came with a swaybar (someone swiped the D44 before I got it) I tossed it when I did the SOA. Didn't think they were anything special? (I'm using the spring plates to mount my shocks on) Factory in the rear? Hornbrod was looking for one awhile back, and considered modifying an XJ bar since no one made one.
carnuck Posted February 26, 2007 Posted February 26, 2007 Don't know if it was factory or dealer installed (or PO) I got it that way from a police auction (guy tried to outrun the State Patrol with a clogged rad. headgasket went)
87manche Posted February 26, 2007 Posted February 26, 2007 never heard of a factory rear swaybar, my guess is that someone installed it for towing or some such.
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