lift question

[ftpiercecracker1]

On BDS suspensions there is an excellent 3in kit for a really good price, but it lifts the rear via AAL :ack: , I was wondering how well it would work if I just did an SOA conversion for the rear and added a 2.5 coil spacer to make up for the difference.

 

Say i get 5in in the rear from SOA :dunno:

3in front from lift + 2.5 spacer= 5.5in

 

if it works out like this ^ i would be sittin pretty.

 

Check out the kit, http://bds-suspension.com/product?ma=7& ... =1986-1991 I think this is one of the best kits out there for the price (I've checked rough country, rocky road, hell creek, to name a few) and i have heard nothing but good things from this company

[Pete M]

3" kits are designed to work with a 3" lift. you're looking at a 5.5 inch lift. you're going to want a 5.5" lift kit. :thumbsup:

[Bounty Hunter]

The main draw-back would be the steep angle of the control arms, performing poorly on road and off. You would want drop brackets or long-arms for that tall spring height.

[mnkyboy]

That kit would be completely useless to you. If you lifted it that high nothing in that kit would be needed. Basically you would be paying over $600 for some 3" coils then putting pucks on top of them.

 

My first MJ lift used 3" coils and 2.5" pucks(RRO),it didn't really match the height of my SOA. I ended up going 6.5" up front to make it sit how I wanted it.

[mvusse]

The main draw-back would be the steep angle of the control arms, performing poorly on road and off. You would want drop brackets or long-arms for that tall spring height.

 

I have ran short arms with 6.25" lift in the front for going on three years now. Ride on the road is nicer than a stock Cherokee, and if performs better than most rigs out there off road. I can go up hills that scare most people with long arms front suspension because it unloads and they're afraid of going over backwards. My short arms don't do that.

[Bounty Hunter]

I have ran short arms with 6.25" lift in the front for going on three years now. Ride on the road is nicer than a stock Cherokee, and if performs better than most rigs out there off road. I can go up hills that scare most people with long arms front suspension because it unloads and they're afraid of going over backwards. My short arms don't do that.

To each their own, but doesn't make it right. Too much tire-jacking, on road and off. Not to mention bumps are transferred straight to the chassis through the vertical control arms rather than being absorbed by the spring when the controls arms are nearly flat, as they should be.

 

LOL your short arms don't unload because there's likely very little down-travel. For me, off road performance is all about the droop, and little about the compression.

[ftpiercecracker1]

Ok then whats the alternative to the AAL that seems to come with every lift kit out there? Who sells 3in lift springs? Hell creek? :dunno:

 

Also, if anyone bothered to follow the link, they offer quite a few upgrades to the basic kit, but are there any in particular that i should be looking at getting? Upgrades obivously mean better, but i can't afford premium everything (almost 2k). i am asking about critical upgrades that would make the biggest difference.

 

thanks

[Bounty Hunter]

Buy 5.5" coils for the front, then SOA the rear. You'll need to lengthen the control arms or buy longer control arms. YJ brake lines in the front and a Dakota rear line. Then measure for cheap shocks.

[mvusse]

I have ran short arms with 6.25" lift in the front for going on three years now. Ride on the road is nicer than a stock Cherokee, and if performs better than most rigs out there off road. I can go up hills that scare most people with long arms front suspension because it unloads and they're afraid of going over backwards. My short arms don't do that.

To each their own, but doesn't make it right. Too much tire-jacking, on road and off. Not to mention bumps are transferred straight to the chassis through the vertical control arms rather than being absorbed by the spring when the controls arms are nearly flat, as they should be.

 

LOL your short arms don't unload because there's likely very little down-travel. For me, off road performance is all about the droop, and little about the compression.

 

Yup, very little down travel:

 

Limited by the shocks. With the shocks disconnected it is limited by the brake lines.

[Bounty Hunter]

Is your front tire under your door? :hijack:

[mvusse]

Buy 5.5" coils for the front, then SOA the rear. You'll need to lengthen the control arms or buy longer control arms. YJ brake lines in the front and a Dakota rear line. Then measure for cheap shocks.

 

Don't forget about the track bar and sway bar end links. I run a 95 Dakota rear line on Wilbur, TJ rear line on Sparkles. Depending on shocks the Dakota one may or may not be long enough, the TJ one is a bit longer yet.

 

On the front I run YJ brake hoses, but supposedly Chevy K1500 ones work better yet. Have not had a chance to see for myself yet, though.

 

And with that much lift larger tires are a must. But with larger tires you may want to regear the axles, then while you're inside the axles you might as well install lockers.... Never ending cycle.