'89 MJ-Work truck/DD to DD and 4 wheeling whenever!

[Stacks]

A few more photos to add.  Just about done!!  I have the air filter to throttle body to finish and I have to lengthen the intake air temp wiring.  Had it running briefly tonight.  Wee bit of smoke as paint and finger prints burned off.  Oh and a small amount of extra noise from open headers!!  Gotta love that sound!!  :banana:   We'll do a little video when I drive it the 4 blocks to the muffler shop on Wed. morning!!

 

 

Headers installed.  Nice thick gasket from Clifford!!! Port openings in the gasket lined up with no mods necessary at all.

 

 

 

'99 intake installed with new Bosch 22lb 4 hole injectors, HO throttle body, and studs to mount the '99 PS pump.  The pulley on the '99 pump was broken so used the one off my '89.  It doesn't have holes to insert and tighten the bolts in it as they are not needed.  Soooo... that's why there are studs to mount the PS pump showing!! 

 

 

PS pump installed and new belt which needed to be 4" longer than the stock one for an MJ.  Also replaced the smooth faced idler pulley with a grooved one. (part number, Gates 38019 from Napa) Next photo shows the PS pump tensioner set up.

 

 

The threaded adjuster doesn't work as on a '99 Cherokee, it's backwards from what is needed here. Sooo... I resorted to the old fashioned way of tensioning the belt like we did with V-belts... an appropriate bar for leaverage, suitable tool for tightening the stop bolt and 4 hands to check everything before it's tightened. 

 

I used a throttle cable bracket from a '93 YJ that was hanging around the shop (it bolts on with no mods needed) and a throttle cable from a stick shift early '90's Cherokee.  The fuel rail is the stock one from the '89 RENIX system with a very strange mounting system.  I'll see how it holds up and if it does I'll do a little write up on it.  I used the TPS mod from the DIY forum which seems to function so far.  I may or may not need to add an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.  I'll see what the A/F gauge tells me.  I'll add a couple more photos when it's all buttoned up!

 

Later,

 

Larry

[Stacks]

OOps... forgot... you may need to space the PS pump out from the intake with washers/spacer to get the pulleys aligned!! 

[buffalob]

real curious as to how this is all holding up and running. I will possibly be doing something real similar to mount up a gale banks revolver header (for 91/92 HO application) to my otherwise present renix system.

[Stacks]

Everything is holding up good so far.  Running great.  The only change I did make was installing a '99 fuel rail as I wasn't comfortable with the way I had mounted the RENIX fuel rail.  I had to lengthen out the wires from the CPS after they got against a header tube and melted together.  Lengthened so I could route them where I could tie wrap them down.  Keep me/us posted on the Banks header install.  I had originally looked at a Banks Torque tube header.  I needed/wanted a dual outlet header to feed the stacks and of course that wonderful 'inline 6 split manifold' song!!!  If the exhaust note was just a bit lower it almost sounds like a Detroit 453T winding up!!  :banana:   The only ongoing issue I have is the engine is running too lean.  I may end up going to an adjustable FPR to remedy it.  Time will tell.

[buffalob]

Thanks for the input.....

[Crash]

How much lift did you net from the SOA? 

[Stacks]

I got just over 5" with the SOA,  With the D44 and the stock D35 springs I probably got a little less than if I had used the D44 springs.  There weren't any D44 springs to be had when I got to doing the SOA so I just used what I had. 

 

Larry

[Stacks]

A bit of an update here.  I'm waiting for a timing set to arrive to go with the parts I got from Clifford Performance. Check my thread in Pub...  http://comancheclub.com/topic/41024-new-goodies-for-my-continuing-build/

 

   Rig is running well.  I am fussing with one issue and have not resolved it yet.  The A/F ratio is too lean, 16-17:1.  Nothing I have tried so far has had any affect on changing it better or worse.  Basic run down on the engine.  Rebuilt professionally, machine work and short block assembly, about 9,000 miles ago.  .030 over bore, Compcams 68-232-4 cam  250/256 lift .460/.476 duration.  Compression ration around 9:1  Head was rebuilt and did not need to be shaved at all and the block did not require decking.  '93 HO block, 7120 head, 99 intake, fuel rail and TB.  new 19lb injectors (happen to be the 4 hole ones.) Cruiser's ground refresh has been done.  Built the adjustable MAP sensor.  Modified the HO TPS to work with the RENIX system.   Clifford dual outlet headers with O2 sensor bung in each collector.  The A/F ratio was monitored with two different narrow band meters and one wide band.  Stays between 16-17:1.  What I have tried so far is: swapped fuel pressure regulators and verified  33-35 with vacuum and 39-40 with no vacuum. Watched A/F while verifying fuel pressure and not even a twitch in A/F. Put in a fuel pressure regulator that was 43/49 PSI.  Still no change in A/F. Moved IAT sensor to the cold air intake tube, no change in  A/F. Adjusting MAP sensor only affected the A/F at WOT or near WOT.  A/F went to13:1. O2 sensors are both new. 0-1VDC Narrow band in one collector and 0-5VDC in other collector to feed ECU. Swapped O2 sensors between collectors, no change in A/F.  I have monitored the actual voltage coming from the 0-1VDC O2 sensor with a 10meg Ohm VOM, digital and analog. Voltage varies from .15-.17VDC which coincides with just under 17:1 and just above 16:1.  Monitored the voltage while checking fuel pressure regulators and not even a twitch when going from vacuum to no vacuum.  I've swapped out the ECU twice with ones I've picked up at the local Pull-n-Save.  No change in A/F.   Have swapped distributor, cap rotor etc, coil and ICM.  No change in A/F.  Swapped CPS twice, no change.  Engine idles at about 700RPM and pulls 17"Hg at idle and 13-15 when cruising down the road.  Mileage has dropped approx 2MPG but I believe that is from my lift and re-gearing from 3.07 to 3.55.  About the only thing I have not tried is putting the old stock injectors back in.  I am hesitant to drive any longer distances with it cuz of the lean A/F ratio and especially after checking the plugs. With 5000 miles on the plugs the porcelain was still mostly white with a bit of red/reddish color on one side of each plug.  Internal body around the porcelain was very light tan to almost white.  Side electrode had slight darkening on the under side.  Plugs are Champion RC12LYC.  No CAT and there is an 18" generic glass pack feeding each stack. Down pipe and exhaust is 2 1/4" til the 3" stacks.   Just thought of something.  The MAP sensor is now fed off the intake and not the throttle body as it normally would be in the RENIX system.  I'm not sure if this would have an affect except at or near WOT.

 

   This issue is part of why when I got the offer from Larry Clifford to swap my TJ for the dual Webers etc I jumped on it.  Yes a less than optimum thing to do for the best fuel economy etc.  The thing I can do more easily is change jets and A/F settings and sync the carbs.  I also realize there are many people out there with stroker motors that are running the stock EFI and intakes and doing great.  My engine has been together for a year now and I don't drive it nearly as much as I normally would. 

 

  If anyone has any thoughts to toss out I'm all ears.  I would like to get the A/F issue fixed/solved.  The new motor will get the Webers and the rest of the goodies but I want to resolve the A/F issue so I could use the motor in something else that may come along! Thanks for wading through all my babbling.  If anyone has any questions or I didn't mention something pertinent give me a holler.  Thank you!! Have a great weekend!!  Larry

[Stacks]

As of 1/31/2014 the engine and all the internal parts from Clifford are at the machine shop.   :thumbsup:   I got the OK to take photos while they are doing the work on the block and/or crank.  I'm not sure when the work will begin.  There looked like a few ahead of mine.  Pix/video as soon as I have them.!!! 

[Stacks]

The machine shop called Thursday evening to ask for some bolts I forgot to take down to them.  The office forgot to call me to take photos during the machine work.  I took the needed bolts to them Friday morning and was able to get a couple photos with my phone.  The block had already been bored and decked but was still sitting in the honing machine.  They still have to hone the bores to match each piston.  I'm hoping they will call me when they are doing that!  They were turning the crankshaft when I got there so got a photo of that and the finished product.  Mike said it will be ready Tues. or Wed. this coming week!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Stacks]

OK... the motor came home today. Not much to really look at but an assembled engine but here's a few pix.  Will add more as I get more assembled. Installation will have to wait til warmer and drier wx. The garage is used to store a CJ5 when it's snowing or raining.  Can't let that rascal shrink any more!!!!  lol

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Stacks]

Here's the build sheet for the engine.  Thought I would throw it up here so everyone can compare machine shop prices.

 

[ComancheKid45]

Cool stuff! Will be awesome when its all back together.

[Stacks]

Got a little progress made today after my parts came in from Jeep.  Couldn't find the re-enforcing plate for the flex plate at the junk yard.  Strange!!  Put the intake on with the old header so I can work on the kick down linkage and the shift linkage.  Most of the rest of the parts I need will come off the existing engine, starter, power steering pump, etc. Had the QC inspector on site today too!!!  :)

 

[Guest]

Very nice.  :thumbsup: A sleek, quality engine is something to be proud of.  :cheers:

[OleGrey]

Nice looking truck. What did you run up front for the lift?

[Stacks]

The front coils were from the local Pull-n-Save wrecking yard.  Came off of a lifted Ford Ranger.  Would have walked right on by if I hadn't seen the 8" lift blocks on the back of it.  They are quiet a bit shorted than stock MJ springs but a lot stiffer.  Speed bumps in parking lots are pretty harsh to say the least.  Was hoping to find F150 coils around 20-22" unloaded. Eventually I will put in some 4" lift springs from Old man Emu, or ProComp or Rocky Road.  Depends on how hard I rattle my teeth and how often.  The ones in there now netted me right at 4" of lift.

[Stacks]

The fun begins!!!  Old motor on it's way out!!!!   Have new fuel pump and pressure regulator mounted.  Cut out done for clearance for lower transcooler line fitting on radiator.    Slow but sure... I hope!! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Stacks]

A little more progress today!  

 

 

 

 

My buddy Barry

 

 

 

 

 

There's a bunch of cleanup and painting to do  before the other emgine goes in.  A couple more custom brackets to make too for the manifold heating plumbing.   Getting rid of the pressure bottle too.

[Stacks]

New engine is in.  Working on an adapter for the tramsmission mount then on to the power steering pump.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I've been contemplating putting a hood scoop on my MJ.  Just happen to close the hood down this evening and...  looks like I have to put a scoop on.  No hood clearance!!!!  Bummer!!!!   LOL

 

 

Does anyone else's MJ mark them with directions???

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Stacks]

OK... no idea what those directions were trying to tell me so... onward to fixing the hood clearance issue.  The whole marked rectangle wasn't removed to preserve the inner hood brace.  I will box the exposed support to help add some strength back in.

 

 

 

 

 

Some of the heater hose plumbing is done.  I picked up the rest of the brass fittings and an additional vacuum valve to complete that this afternoon.  I prefer to NOT have coolant circulating thru the heater core in the summer but I need the circulation to heat the intake manifold. 

 

 

Trying to keep the heater hose plumbing a little bit 'contained' and neater if possible.  The rear carb is too close to the firewall to use the supplied throttle linkage bracket so we improvised a bit.  Same with the power steering pump mount.  Next is the t-case linkage.  Thanks Ben!!  Only other major issue is the kick down linkage.  There's a couple temp gauges to wire in yet, t-cooler lines to run and some wiring cleanup to do.  May have it running by the beginning of next week... maybe,,,  lol  Oh... and to rub some of you the wrong way...  I have some 4" diameter pieces of drive line to make new stacks that will hopefully lower the tone of the exhaust a bit when I have my foot in it!!  lol 

 

 

 

 

 

[Stacks]

Made a bit of progress this evening.  The new fuel pump, pressure regulator, return line, and fuel block and pressure gauge are plumbed in and connected to the carbs.  I need to wire in a relay to power the new fuel pump.

 

 

 

 

I'm looking at some alternatives to be able to lessen the number of hose clamps.  Any or all of them is a disaster waiting to happen.  Any ideas or suggestions??  Still have a fair amount of wiring to clean up from the previous owner,  wire nuts, wire taps etc.

 

 

 

[Stacks]

Not sure if it was not paying attention or Mother Murphy that bit my butt... maybe both.  Went to crank the engine to verify oil pressure before firing it up and... starter spins but engine doesn't turn over.  Pulled the starter and the flexplate is on backwards.  :doh:   Pulled the trans etc back far enough to get the flexplate off, flipped it over and imagine that... it's the wrong flexplate.  When installed correctly it rubs on the backing plate on the back of the block.  In looking at the flexplate it smacked me in the face.  It isn't even a flexplate for a fuel injected engine.  Probably for a 258.  That's what I get for believing what the seller tells me!!  Now to figure out which flexplate belongs behind an MJ 4.0 and in front of an A999/32RH.  With the little bit of checking I've done this evening it appears that it may be the same as a Wrangler with the 4.0 and an A999/32RH. Just need to get my pinkies on one to compare it to the one I have.  If anyone has any input I would be glad to hear it!!!  Thanks!!

 

Larry

[Stacks]

The problem's resolved.  The flexplate was installed correctly initially.  The fix is to use a starter from a 258.  When placed side by side with a 4.0 starter the 'nose' of the 258 is approx. 1/2" longer.  Back together and it works like it's supposed to.  We did a bunch of work that didn't need to be done.  Should have looked at things again before we acted.   I should remember this one!!  lol

 

Larry

[Stacks]

I'm beginning to think my MJ has taken a dislike to me!!  lol  Had to replace the input gear on the t-case with a long length one to keep the trans from dumping fluid out the drain in the tailshaft extension housing.  Last evening it was ready to fire up.   Put water in the radiator, rechecked all the fuel pump wiring etc.  Cranked it over and it fired right up after a couple seconds.  It was running way too fast on the fast idle cams so I shut it off.  Ran nice and smooth.  When I tried to restart it with the chokes disabled it cranked and acted like it kicked back cuz of a timing.  Started re-checking things.  Pulled the plugs and #6 was wet with water!   Cranked it over with the plugs out to see if things were turning smooth.  After a couple seconds of turning it over a glob of liquid shot out of #5 up against the garage wall!  Ran a compression check.  All 6 are 150 plus.  Drained the water out of the cooling system, disconnected the heater hoses to the intake manifold, plugged one side and ran compressed air into the other...  air comes out the carbs.   :???:   .  I have a call in to Clifford Performance to advise them of the issues.  Will post the results later today hopefully!!  :dunno:

 

Larry