JohnQ Posted February 14, 2007 Posted February 14, 2007 I was putting in some spacers today and can't get the lower control arms to line back up, any advice?
DirtyComanche Posted February 14, 2007 Posted February 14, 2007 A bottle jack, a high-lift, an anchor point, 20 feet of chain, 6lb sledge... Actually, normally it just takes a bottle jack and a 2-3lb sledge. Use the jack to push the axle forewards or backwards as needed, hit the arm with the sledge to get it into the pocket. Once it is close, insert the bolt with the sledge - it'll self centre. But you didn't hear that method from me.
jeepthing07 Posted February 14, 2007 Posted February 14, 2007 Loosen all the control arm bolts if you can so everything moves easy. Wedge a 2 foot or so piece of 2x4 between the axle and the steering linkage and use the 2x4 for leverage to move the axle back and forth to align the holes. Worked for me and it was simple
Tracker Posted February 14, 2007 Posted February 14, 2007 I just used the bottle jack to push forward, a small floor jack under the axle to push slightly up, and a couple well placed motorcycle tie-downs for safety and to keep from losing ground. Once close, a BF phillips screwdriver finished aligning the holes. :wrench:
JohnQ Posted February 14, 2007 Author Posted February 14, 2007 I just used the bottle jack to push forward, a small floor jack under the axle to push slightly up, and a couple well placed motorcycle tie-downs for safety and to keep from losing ground. Once close, a BF phillips screwdriver finished aligning the holes. :wrench: How do you use a bottle jack to push the axel forward? Where do I put it? I got the arms in the brackets, but I am still about .75" away from lining up the holes. :headpop:
DirtyComanche Posted February 14, 2007 Posted February 14, 2007 How do you use a bottle jack to push the axel forward? Where do I put it? I put a block of wood under one side of it so it is on an angle like / or \ then put it under the knuckle and jack away... It pushes it over as well as lifting then.
Tracker Posted February 14, 2007 Posted February 14, 2007 In my case, I put the jack parallel to and just above the LCA to be bolted. The bottom of the jack is against the body, (a 2x4 kinda digs into metal and makes a stable flat spot) and the top is pushing on the lower shock mount.
Duner Posted February 14, 2007 Posted February 14, 2007 The bottle jack and block of wood works pretty well when using stock arms or my first set of skyjacker LCA's. I could not believe how easy it was to roll the axle into place with the fully adjustable LCA's/UCA's from Rusty's. What I forgot about was how difficult it is to get the upper control arm bolts out of the body - I don't think jeep wanted us to remove those fortunately man has invent tools that can grind steel.
feerocknok Posted February 14, 2007 Posted February 14, 2007 Bottle jack and a hardy rubber mallet is what I used, so I didn't destroy anything with a sledge. My adjustable arms were just as difficult to get in place.
JohnQ Posted February 15, 2007 Author Posted February 15, 2007 Thanks everyone, the bottle jack worked great!
feerocknok Posted February 15, 2007 Posted February 15, 2007 Thanks everyone, the bottle jack worked great! That's the way! First picture I've ever seen of it, and it's not easy to describe in words.
carnuck Posted February 15, 2007 Posted February 15, 2007 When I replaced my front axle (I undid the old one at the axle), I put the lower arms on first, then put in the new longer coils, then I attached a comealong to the upper control arm mount and attached it back to the trans crossbar to pull the diff back and align the bolts.
87manche Posted February 15, 2007 Posted February 15, 2007 I find that the easiest way for me is to attach the lowers, since they go easier, then use a pipe wrench on the axle tube. Put the pip wrenhc handle on top of a botle jack so you can hold it steady and make small adjustments. Then rotate the axle back into place and put the uppers on.
JohnQ Posted February 26, 2007 Author Posted February 26, 2007 The bottle jack and block of wood works pretty well when using stock arms or my first set of skyjacker LCA's. I could not believe how easy it was to roll the axle into place with the fully adjustable LCA's/UCA's from Rusty's. What I forgot about was how difficult it is to get the upper control arm bolts out of the body - I don't think jeep wanted us to remove those fortunately man has invent tools that can grind steel. Duner, Do you still have your skyjacker LCA's and/or AAL's? Want to sell? I could use a set until I get my TNT long arm.
JohnQ Posted June 2, 2007 Author Posted June 2, 2007 Anyone know an easy way to get new controls arm on. The rubber bushings are too big for the brackets. I have tried a hammer and using the floor jack to press them on. I'm out of ideas. :headpop:
Twisty Posted June 2, 2007 Posted June 2, 2007 Did you grease them? That always makes it 100x easier.
CWLONGSHOT Posted June 2, 2007 Posted June 2, 2007 Holy old threads batman...is this STILL a problem???
JohnQ Posted June 2, 2007 Author Posted June 2, 2007 Not a problem anymore. The new bushings were about a 1/4 too thick. So I got a bigger F-ing Hammer to get the job done! :D
Renegade Posted June 3, 2007 Posted June 3, 2007 When I put in my spacers, I had the same problem but the track bar was even worse. Looking back, I shoulda just sat the jeep back on the ground & had somebody shove on the fender.
Oizarod115 Posted June 3, 2007 Posted June 3, 2007 the deal with new bushings i've heard the thing to do is freeze them in the freezer over night
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