cz777 Posted June 1, 2012 Posted June 1, 2012 i found no air in the brake system so far .....brakes are hard when not running ...when running soft and pumps up to hard till let alone soft again ...could the valve in back mess with the system if bad ????
Pete M Posted June 1, 2012 Posted June 1, 2012 I had a similar issue and it was a bad booster. :thumbsup:
cz777 Posted June 4, 2012 Author Posted June 4, 2012 i did R&R the booster ...it works great but running first stage is still weak ...like rear brake valve by-passing to much so anybody know where to get it !!
Comanche County Posted June 5, 2012 Posted June 5, 2012 I'd offer any assistance I can, but I'm having a difficult time deciphering your last post. I really don't understand what "r&r'ing" a brake booster is, the rest of your post is confusing also.
ParadiseMJ Posted June 5, 2012 Posted June 5, 2012 i did R&R the booster ...it works great but running first stage is still weak ...like rear brake valve by-passing to much so anybody know where to get it !! The rear load sensing proporitong valve is not available new unless there is some NOS out there. You either have to work with it or bypass it altogether if it's broken. There are after market adjustable proportioning valves out there.
cz777 Posted June 5, 2012 Author Posted June 5, 2012 i did R&R the booster ...it works great but running first stage is still weak ...like rear brake valve by-passing to much so anybody know where to get it !! The rear load sensing proporitong valve is not available new unless there is some NOS out there. You either have to work with it or bypass it altogether if it's broken. There are after market adjustable proportioning valves out there. DAMN ! yup that is my trouble ..ok now the best fix for this trouble ..what about fitting a manual valve in place of ? and who makes a good one for the job ? i think this thread/post needs to be a sticky note for people ...them MJ's are getting old and things are failing with age ......mine works very well ,it needs a paint job .....i think a preservative camo job[earth brown] is order till more money to the rest ...what do you think of this move ?
cz777 Posted June 5, 2012 Author Posted June 5, 2012 I'd offer any assistance I can, but I'm having a difficult time deciphering your last post. I really don't understand what "r&r'ing" a brake booster is, the rest of your post is confusing also. [ "r&r'ing" ]this is old school for ''replace and repair '' sorry i am a bit older above the 50 year mark with a vintage way of talk and writing so please if you don't understand me ,please ask what i mean so i can translate it to newspeak ......
MJeep Posted June 5, 2012 Posted June 5, 2012 i did R&R the booster ...it works great but running first stage is still weak ...like rear brake valve by-passing to much so anybody know where to get it !! The rear load sensing proporitong valve is not available new unless there is some NOS out there. You either have to work with it or bypass it altogether if it's broken. There are after market adjustable proportioning valves out there. DAMN ! yup that is my trouble ..ok now the best fix for this trouble ..what about fitting a manual valve in place of ? and who makes a good one for the job ? i think this thread/post needs to be a sticky note for people ...them MJ's are getting old and things are failing with age ......mine works very well ,it needs a paint job .....i think a preservative camo job[earth brown] is order till more money to the rest ...what do you think of this move ? Here is a write up on a complete overhaul. The wilwood part •Wilwood 260-11179 will replace the valve by the master cylinder as well as the load sensing valve above the rear end. It also eliminates one of the lines going to the rear of the truck Edit: here's the wilwood valve, currently available from summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-11179/
cz777 Posted June 6, 2012 Author Posted June 6, 2012 the game plan is set now i am waiting for the parts !
carnuck Posted June 7, 2012 Posted June 7, 2012 When I had air trapped in the return line from the rear valve (before I bypassed it) I had that problem. Loosening the line at the front valve let the air out and they worked again.
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