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Stranded!!! Help needed asap.


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Scenario: I was at the bank at drive through for a good stretch 15 min at idle. Coolant temp never moved. It's about 90 degrees today.

 

Driving home from bank and plah. Truck dies. Tach hit zero.

 

Put key in ign with door open i hear the buzzer. I turn the key and nothing. gauges don't move. If i pull the high beam lever i get High beams and can turn on head lights, but no turn signals, no hazards, no dash lights. Do have door lights working.

 

connected a jumper from battery to starter cranks over like mad! Checked fuse-able links by battery non feel soft. I got a tow to a friends house and now am trying to trouble shoot it. key does nothing. the ecu was hot to the touch... all fuses in the box tested fine. I'm at a loss unless the ignition fried....////

 

help.

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I personally have had an ECU fail and leave me stranded. Mine would crank though, just wouldnt fire. Even though some accessories are still working have you tried a new battery or to have the vehicle jump started? Almost sounds like your battery is on its way out... :dunno:

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well i went to the autoparts store and picked one up. looked in the fsm where it was, unpluged the original with out removing it, plugged in the new removed the "set Pin" and nothing. I can move the switch through all positions and it's still dead. nothing comes on or activates. No brake lights, no windshield washer, no horn, no dash illumination, no gauges, no turning over, no blinker, no hazards, no fan, no radio.

 

can turn on head lights, and markers, and make truck turn over by jumping the starter wire but no fire.

 

 

HELP!!!!!

 

Is there a main fuse to the ecu??? a way to test if the ecu is bad??? anyother electrical components exhibit this behavior??? ICM?

 

maybe a fuseable link causing all my issues?

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ECU does not affect cranking.

 

You're losing power or ground somehere and it's probably major. How are your battery cables between the battery and starter and battery to block? Oil soaked and corroded inside?

 

Remember what that jumper wire did for you? It helped.

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ECU does not affect cranking.

 

You're losing power or ground somehere and it's probably major. How are your battery cables between the battery and starter and battery to block? Oil soaked and corroded inside?

 

Remember what that jumper wire did for you? It helped.

 

 

Running a jumper from the battery to the starter solenoid helped because it bypassed the entire ignition system.

 

My battery posts are clean, and both the ground and positive wires have been replaced recently.

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So i found that i had no constant power at the ignition switch. I then ran a tracer on the 12v red and found that a fuseable link looks like it broke, not burned right off the starter relay. cut it and contacted it and I have life in the truck, however i still do not have brake lights or hazards.

 

 

I have turn signals just no brakes or hazards. i switched the two clickers and both work with the turn signals, and all fuses are good. suggestions on chasing down this one would be great.

 

 

oh and can i replace a fuseable link with an inline fuse?

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oh and can i replace a fuseable link with an inline fuse?

 

Sure. In fact they junked fusible links later on (90 or 91) and started using MAXI fuses as replacements. I'd go with a 50A for the ignition circuit.

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ECU does not affect cranking.

 

You're losing power or ground somehere and it's probably major. How are your battery cables between the battery and starter and battery to block? Oil soaked and corroded inside?

 

Remember what that jumper wire did for you? It helped.

 

 

Running a jumper from the battery to the starter solenoid helped because it bypassed the entire ignition system.

 

My battery posts are clean, and both the ground and positive wires have been replaced recently.

 

Not true. It bypassed the battery to starter wire.

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End results:

 

The fusible link that supplies power to the ignition switch broke or burned out. I think maybe broke to just a few strands then burned, but regardless I'd already purchased a new ignition switch and had the wires disconnected to chase my power issues so I installed a new switch just encase it caused my problem. I had to go to Napa to get a replacement fusible link in 18 gauge.

 

 

my brakes and hazard lights were not working because one of the contacts in the fuse panel was missing part of the spring. so I added a dab of solder to the fuse blade and sanded it flater so it would make contact. As It's a major pain in the @$$ to get behind our fuse panels.

 

 

 

Anyone have a resource for a fuse panel for under the hood that takes the fusible link fuses, and what amp fusible fuse corresponds to what gauge fusible wire..

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