kawaboy13

1987 4.0. The voltage meter was on 0 and had been working earlier in the day. When I first noticed the dimming, that gauge had already fallen all the way. Sometimes it's like that but it has been working lately so I figured it was reading correctly

I got pulled to the house. Going to pull the alternator in the morning. Is there anything special to pulling it off to have it tested?

I was loading my truck up tothis evening at market basket when I noticed an odd knocking/popping noise around the distributor cap. I headed up to my lease and On the way back after dark, my interior lights as well as my headlights got dim and kept getting dimmer. At a red light, my truck would not take anymore throttle after about 1500 rpm. I shifted at low Rpms and got rolling about 40mph. The next red light I couldn't get it to go over 10-15mph. I pulled into oreillys and my truck died. It will not crank. Lights are very dim like I'm getting no power. When you turn the key, you still get the normal fuel pump buzz and a click is all.My battery gauge is at 0. It works Off and on so I can't rely on that. They tested my battery and it showed bad battery but I'm thinking maybe my alternator pulled it down? I have to pull the alternator to have it tested. I've never heard noises like this and first thought it may have been the timing chain. The fuel pump I don't believe would pull my electric power like that. Any input on where to start? Thanks!

So likely it is a thermostat issue I am having? When I replace that along with the radiator should I go with a radiator that has a filler neck built in or use the one in the hose with a factory closed radiator? Thanks!

So likely it is a thermostat issue I am having? When I replace that along with the radiator should I go with a radiator that has a filler neck built in or use the one in the hose with a factory closed radiator? Thanks!

Shouldn't need to burp it. Why don't you convert to 97 and later heater hoses while you're at it and ditch that heater control valve? What would I need to get to do that? Can I buy the hoses new? How will that affect the truck? Thanks!

Ok good. So it is acting as an open system? I thought about replacing the radiator and thermostat and probably the hoses. Then if I put a new bottle or maybe just a new cap on my old one, then I should be able to continue to use the system the way it sits? I may get a radiator with a cap instead of the fill neck mid hose if that seems the better way to go. Also with this system, do I still need to burp down a hill with thermostat plug pulled or burp at cap?

This is the setup I bought it with. What should the line off the top go to to not act as a vent? Plug it? The filler neck vent runs to the bottom of the tank.

The hose off of the top right of the bottle goes to nothing. I'm guessing vent/ overflow. Just wanting to make sure all I need is a new cap for it, radiator, hoses and thermostat. That's what I'm leaning toward and just want to be sure I'm after the right thing. The open/closed and closed with cap like this one has me confused

This is my current setup. Bottle is vented off to the side. Assuming this makes it an overflow bottle. It does not looked cracked, but the cap does look rough. What should I ditch and replace? Thanks

Like both upper and lower radiator hoses?

Where it ties into the radiator. Coolant on my battery and front bumper trim

I've been reading post after post but still have not found which path forward I should take. My truck is a 1987 4.0 renix ba/10. Yesterday I went a few miles into town and idled probably five minutes at my stop. I started To head home and started smelling something burning. Truck was running around 230 when it usually hangs around 160 on my gauge. I got almost home and I killed it running about 250 degrees. I Let it cool off to about 180, then headed to the house. Previous owner replaced thermostat 5 or so years ago and added in a filler neck mid line. I replaced the water pump maybe 3 years ago. It Still has the original pressure bottle and cap. Should I start with a Napa cap, replace my entire bottle, or go after the thermostat? I did have some coolant coming out of my upper hose and steam also. I have had multiple cooling issues with the truck over the years, but it has been sitting and being driven a couple times a month now. I know the radiator probably is needing a replacement also due to is age. Just want to start in the right place and then go ahead and do some other upgrades. Any help would be appreciated.

Do you need to install a diff gasket or can you just use red rtv? I am about to tackle my front and rear diff and am wondering what steps I should take and how long I should let things sit before tightening, adding fluid, ect

I haven't been able to go see it yet. It's in southeast texas. I hate that's it's not a 4x4

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=200878200718&index=19&nav=SEARCH&nid=36601211460 Saw this on eBay and have never seen one before. How does it mount? Snap on or screws?

Found a 92 Jeep Comanche 4.0 ax15 2wd in town. I know the guy who owns it as of know. I know he ran it somewhat hard. The body is kind of rough. It has a 3" skyjacker lift and over 200k miles. I am supposed to go take a look at it soon and see what the rest of it is like. He says he won't take less. Is it worth it for me to get it with that many miles for that price? Thanks for input

Yeah everything seems to shift better when it gets warmed up. Just have to put arm in it on cold mornings. I am going to look for more alternatives. Are there things that could hurt if I changed fluids if I keep the same viscosity?

Did it help with the shifts?

I need to get the snap in np231 bezel for a ba10/5 manual tranny console. Mine now is missing all the paint and the light shines through into my eyes. Thanks, John Paul

I have just master pro 75w90. Seems to be the same as before. Notchy first and second. Hard to get in second at 25 to 40 degrees or so

Anyone tried anything different?

I've been searching and see a lot of different fluids people are using. Mostly the answers are directed to ax15's. My Peugeot is the typical notch shifter between 1st and 2nd and also into reverse. I changed the fluid about 5,000 miles ago with 75w90 gl5. I am wondering if it would be alright to switch to something such as gm synchromesh. I would love to have smooth sliding gears. Thanks, John Paul

Not sure how to embed the link, but if you search it on eBay, he has the original papers with the vin

I personally like the flow master 40 series on a stock cat. It is pretty deep. Not too loud. If you do turn downs, it's much louder.