Oil filter gasket

[Jaime]

Hello everyone

I want to change the oil filter adaptor ring/gasket on my 88 4.0. Posible leak. But I can't find the torque spec for it. Also is this hard to do can't find anything on it in the fsm or repair manual.

Thanks in advance

[cruiser54]

There are 3 o-rings to replace. Extremely easy and straightforward. The dealership sells the o-rings separately, not in a kit like the later Jeeps.

 

IIRC, 9/16 or 5/8 socket on a long ratchet and loosen the center bolt.

 

I didn't torque any of the 3 I've done. You're just compressing an o-ring. A good pull with your forearm strength will be fine.

[Jaime]

Thank You cruiser54 very easy and straight forward. I still have the oil leak so I guess it's going to be the rear main seal. I'm not looking foward to that.

 

Thanks again.

[RDAN1]

Thank You cruiser54 very easy and straight forward. I still have the oil leak so I guess it's going to be the rear main seal. I'm not looking foward to that.

 

Thanks again.

 

 

Before you tackle the rear main seal, you might replace the valve cover gasket with a good one, if you haven't done so already. A leak in the valve cover can be confused sometimes with a leak of the rear main as the oil runs down the back of the block. Good luck!

[cruiser54]

Thank You cruiser54 very easy and straight forward. I still have the oil leak so I guess it's going to be the rear main seal. I'm not looking foward to that.

 

Thanks again.

 

 

Before you tackle the rear main seal, you might replace the valve cover gasket with a good one, if you haven't done so already. A leak in the valve cover can be confused sometimes with a leak of the rear main as the oil runs down the back of the block. Good luck!

 

Absolutely correct. Here is my typical response to suspected rMS leaks:

 

I'd be looking up above first. A leak at the back of the valve cover could produce the same symptoms. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon just yet.

 

Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for 2 simple reasons. First off, the engine sits nose-up and oil will run back to that area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill".

 

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket have to be eliminated as possibilities first.

 

Revised 3-23-2012

[foreman1063]

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket have to be eliminated as possibilities first.

 

I replaced all of these plus the RMS, come to find out my worst oil leak is from the head gasket. :doh:

[Exgrayxj]

In addition to all the other excellent suggestions let me add, check that the vacuum tubes for crankcase ventilation are open, not clogged with crud.

I have found clogged lines in two of my 4.0s, getting things working in this area stopped my "rear main" leak. Excessive internal pressure will push oil out wherever it can.

[cruiser54]

In addition to all the other excellent suggestions let me add, check that the vacuum tubes for crankcase ventilation are open, not clogged with crud.

I have found clogged lines in two of my 4.0s, getting things working in this area stopped my "rear main" leak. Excessive internal pressure will push oil out wherever it can.

 

Excellent point!!