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Need a little help with the light switch - on a road trip


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Hi guys.

I'm out on the road and the lights on the devil's spawn truck are playing me up! :fs1:

I've traced it to the main switch but I can't figure out how to remove it for an inspection. Can anyone help me?

FYI, it's just the low beam circuit that has gone kaput, the mains work ok.

Thanks in advance :)

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There is a release button on the main body of the switch.......push the button and pull the plunger/rod/pull/knob of the switch all the way out of the switch itself. Now there is a large nut where the knob was and you can unscrew the nut.....the whole thing will come out.

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Thanks guys, fun and games this trip with the Devil's Spawn! Been camping and exploring trails on the snow line this weekend and we've got several new oil leaks, the lights problem, a creaking front coil spring and on the way back down the darn exhaust just broke in two. 200 miles and one high mountain pass to go. Fingers crossed we make it back over in one piece :bowdown:

 

Edit: found the button! image_209027.gif

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Doing back-country excursions in a MJ is not for the faint of heart :shake: :wrench: I always carry a full tool kit :thumbsup: Although it seems your not out of smart-phone reception , which in B.C. means your less than 10 km off a main hiway image_209027.gif

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Doing back-country excursions in a MJ is not for the faint of heart :shake: :wrench: I always carry a full tool kit :thumbsup: Although it seems your not out of smart-phone reception , which in B.C. means your less than 10 km off a main hiway image_209027.gif
indeed, trying to get up to see the trestles outside kelowna. Still snow bound for now, turned around when the truck started to sound more like a boat.

 

If it's only the low beams that have gone AWOL, the problem is in the dimmer switch (on the steering column), not in the headlight switch.

Could be! The washer has been intermittent recently. Thing is, if I pull the light switch and wriggle it about the lights will come on without touching the dimmer switch? Just before it crapped out there was a nasty electrical burning smell.

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If it's only the low beams that have gone AWOL, the problem is in the dimmer switch (on the steering column), not in the headlight switch.

Are there any places I can buy a new column dimmer switch? Or do I need to take a trip to the wreckers yard to get one? I'm assuming you're referring to the stalk on the column by the steering wheel?

 

Also, looking for tips on replacing the dimmer switch. I've read my haynes manual and it says I have to dismantle most of the steering column to get at it! I've searched the forum for clues and seen talk of the actual switch itself being at the bottom of the column? Please can someone clarify for me? Do I need to pull the column apart?

 

Thanks loads in advance :wrench:

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Dimmer / Ignition switch available @ Gemini Jeep from the Crown catalog on line . ( also Burnaby or Langley stores ) It's not a terribly hard swap , just remove the knee panel for clearer access to column . :yes:

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Dimmer / Ignition switch available @ Gemini Jeep from the Crown catalog on line . ( also Burnaby or Langley stores ) It's not a terribly hard swap , just remove the knee panel for clearer access to column . :yes:

Thanks for the info sir :bowdown:

So I do need to pull the column apart! Darn! :wrench:

 

edit: So I was thinking "Why did the switch fail?" and then I remembered I've got 4 x 3W marker lights for the camper spliced into the rear light wiring. Using my skool math that means I'm putting 1 amp more than standard through that circuit. So question for my techy CC friends - Is an extra amp on that circuit enough to burn out the switch contacts? I wouldn't have thought so! Anyways, they still work, along with all the other lights, just the dip beams are awol?

Any input gratefully received :thumbsup:

 

Double edit: Anyone have a photo of the switch?

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Dimmer / Ignition switch available @ Gemini Jeep from the Crown catalog on line . ( also Burnaby or Langley stores ) It's not a terribly hard swap , just remove the knee panel for clearer access to column . :yes:

Thanks for the info sir :bowdown:

So I do need to pull the column apart! Darn! :wrench:

:no: The H/L dimmer is actuated by a rod from the column stalk ( sig & hi /lo beam ) . If you look at the upper end of the switch you will see 2 rods entering same , click the hi/lo to see which rod moves ( that's the dimmer )and insure it's attached correctly ( sometimes they will pop out , in which case you won't need a new switch ) The Haynes Manual describes how to adjust the switch if you have to loosen or remove it to re-attach the actuator rod ( late advise; mark the switch position before loosening )In my case I found a couple of wires going into the connector blocks had come un-crimped causing intermittent failures FWIW . So the next part is easy ' lay on your back , with your head under the dash ( light helps ) looking up at the steering column on e-brake side , flick the hi/lo stalk ........Well you get the idea :cheers:

edit: So I was thinking "Why did the switch fail?" and then I remembered I've got 4 x 3W marker lights for the camper spliced into the rear light wiring. Using my skool math that means I'm putting 1 amp more than standard through that circuit. So question for my techy CC friends - Is an extra amp on that circuit enough to burn out the switch contacts? I wouldn't have thought so! Anyways, they still work, along with all the other lights, just the dip beams are awol?

Any input gratefully received :thumbsup:

 

Double edit: Anyone have a photo of the switch?

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And there was light! After pulling it apart and testing it turned out the main light switch was fried. Water had got into the connector block behind the LH head lamp. Not sure if that was the cause or just age and wear in the switch.

:cheers:

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